Is there a such thing?

I was thinking about reliability and general life-span for the /4 and the /6, is it really worth going to a /6 just for longer life (possibly) and a bit more power?

Or should I build a good fresh 2.0?

The 2.0 will be less expensive, both to rebuild and to maintain. You already have the stuff to install the 2.0 in your car, and the motor is a simpler design.

That said, you will get more power per CC with the six, and it won't be working as hard as the four to make the same HP.


IF you want to continue down that route, the SBC conversion is even more bang for the buck. Lots of performance parts, and they are uber cheap compared with Porsche parts.



Personally, I like the sound of a six,and I like the fact that it is all "factory" parts.


I would suggest making a pros and cons list. Make sure you add intangibles like the fact that it is a real Porsche motor (yes, that matters to some people) and your personal preferences in a 914.

Thought you were getting a Boxter @>0 4 would be a lot cheaper but a 2.0 six can be just as reliable AND a lot mo fun

When I bought my 914-6 in 1979 it had 42,000 miles on it. It now has 63,000 on it. So obviously I don't drive my car every day. However in the 28 years of ownership the only thing that ever went wrong with the car was the fuel pump. The original fuel pump started leaking in 1999 so I replaced with a new one. Other than that it’s been a totally reliable car. Always starts right up, idles perfect, never spits and sputters and runs and accelerates great. A very simple car with carburetors. No fuel injection issues here. Please note that the car has only been driven on nice days in the last 28 years. It has never even seen rain. So I'm sure that helps everything last longer.

Steve,

Please show us a picture of the 1970 914-6 we have seen the pictures of the M471 car in Germany in the book, and up in Northern CA in the ad. but I have never seen your other 6.
Thanks,

Bob Burton

Hey Bob,

Most of the pictures of my old 914-6 that are on my computer have been posted on this site before so I apoligize to everyone that have seen then here before. But if my friend Bob asks for a picture, I'm gonna give him one or two.

Steve

One more for Bob.

300 HP in our cars is a real hoot!!

well:

*2.0 would cost ~$2000 to build would last ~100k miles (around 70k)
*SBC would cost $$$, would last 150k??, but would involve cutting holes and having to bleed cooling system, uber fast.

A six is really expensive, but really cool-looking and those webers sound good.

If I were to build another 914 it would be a 3.0 or larger 6.

Did I just type that?

If you go six, best bang for the buck is a 3.2 motronic or 3.6 twin-plug arrangement.

If you go V8... Dunno, ask the american motorheads...

Big 4... Jake be your man.

Subaru... Tons of conversion threads.

The 4cyl would require no modification to the car to work.

The 6cyl would require some modification, but either fabricating your own conversion hardware or buying it ($$$). Not to mention when rebuild time comes you're at least in for $4k.

The 8cyl would require lots of modification to the car and either buying or fabricating your own conversion parts ($/time)

Subaru 4cyl... So many turbo options. Still a a good bang for your buck, but requires just as much modification and fabrication to make it all work as a V8... And radiators...

Follow the advice of others above. Start pricing what a conversion or rebuild would cost you, track everything you'll need and decide with your dollars. Or you can use the simple "how much downtime without a car can I afford?" For me, it's a necessary turn-around of 1 day.

Brando, I think your post is very well put:

I think it is a good point if you do not have the money and do not have the extra cars. Look at the end product at a show and think what you would really want as your dream car. Or if is a daily driver for you. I wish I felt like I did when I was younger now that I have the bread.

Bob

A 3.2 914-6 conversion can make for a really nice street car. Starts right up, gobs of power, and excellent sounds.

As for a daily driver, I'm sure it would hold up, but you may get excessive speeding tickets.

How do you figure rebuilding a 2.0 for 2k?

I started pricing out a complete rebuild (not just bolting a few new parts on with new bearings) and quickly got to 5k. (Heads done by Len, mostly stock parts to work with the stock D-Jet).

I wanted a motor that would last and heads/exhaust that would not leak.

I priced out a 3.2 and my wife told me to do the 6. (It was, after all, what I wanted to do in the long run.) I'm completely happy with it, and some day it will get the flares installed.

Stock rebuilds are cheap. Thats how I can estimate around 2k for a stock build.

After all, I live in KY.

im just about to complete a 2056 and to me now a 2K sounds a little low if you want it pretty(powder coat and all).

unless you have a friend to do alot of word(cleaning heads pistons and cylinders, maybe balancing) and assuming that you dont need a flywheel, major head work or exhaust it could be done.

britt: why not do a 2056?
stock efi except for a tuned mps.
can run stock or web 73 or RAT 9550 cam.
higher compression(flat top KB's)
and prolly about 125Ft/lb instead of the 97 or so stock(4).
no need for external cooling!

-jim

Well, i'm going for a Megasquirt system, so I'm not really intrested in being able to retain stock injection....

A -4 is lighter too!!