Your electric bill is gonna be big!!!

Rich

Skline -
You are missing the Brad Mauer outer stiffening kit...
It will add anther 50 or so pounds as well -

Good luck on your project, and do not get in a hurry welding in the Engman inner... you rush it, and you will mess up your door gaps big time !

Best -
Thom

This will be the fourth Engman inner kit I have done but thanks for the advice.

Welding in some of the parts today, I had forgotten how difficult it was to get the kit to lay flat. Here are some pics of what is being done so far. Almost done with the drivers side outer.

Scott,

May be a little early, but are going to be running the same muffler set up as on the Chalon?

Thanks,

I just want to add into the mix LS1 400 hp and less weight than the porsche 6!

old school 327 is ok but new tech 400 hp for less weight is welll... make your own decisions.

he has to put it through a 901.....

400hp + 901 = big hunk of lube and wasted cash

I had a V8 car over 400hp through a 901... 3 transaxles in 2 yrs. One lasted 6 months , one lasted one track day and one was still in good shape a year plus later when i sold the car

Narrow bodied cars are so traction limited that the transaxles can survive. Limited slip and slicks w/ HP is a lil tough on them though....

BJH

Yes, I am going with the same exhaust setup as I put in the Chalon, I liked the sound of it and it was quiet inside.

The floorboard is now stripped, (Thank you Jared, he is working off the parts I gave him) and I am happy to say the worst rust is minor surface rust around the pedal area. The floor is the cleanest and most solid of any car I have seen or owned. The bad news for Jared is he also got around to taking the engine apart, (top end only), the reverse cooling was clogged solid along with the lower end of the block and the water pump was pretty solid too with crap. I will need to rebuild the water pump and replace the reverse cooling fittings on the engine as they were corroded and broke when removed from the engine. I will need to replace them also. Jared will have to clean out the block and the manifold and heads as they are pretty clogged with rust and some white stuff. The oil looks like it had some water in it so he is going to have to drop the pan and check everything. So his will be a few weeks longer till he is ready to get it running. That is all we have done so far, I will take pictures tomorrow after work.

Brought one of the engines home today and got it on the stand. Then proceeded to pull it all apart and see what I have to work with. The heads wont be used as I am going to go with a set of ProComp aluminum 205 heads with 64cc chambers. I took a picture of the heads removed anyway as the valves tell stories of how it was running when pulled. Anyone venture a guess as to why it has 3 white valves?

Today I will take the block, carnk, pistons and rods to the machine shop and drop them off to be cleaned and machined.

A few more pictures.

Yo man, Sorry I didnt call you back. I was no ton spring break and this weekend is a test weekend. I have a very stout set of springs that I would be willing to sell you for low$$. You can check them out and see if they can work for you.

Maybe running a little lean on those cylinders?
Those heads look like they might have ported intakes? Valves look pretty good sized too - 2.02?

I love following these V8 threads - living vicariously as it were...
FWIW, I read today about one of the major engine manufacturers (Motown?) is making a new block that takes gen 1 bottom end parts - but gen 3/LS top end! Cool!

Something else for the V8 guys to ponder...

Hey skline your really going at it!
The white valves you see surely mean a little more heat, but with a carburetor and a small block who knows, lean, outside cyls get less fuel, intake leak, EGR heat in the center one. Now clean it up and get it running

Trying to find a machine shop to do the work. Talked to Clayton and Joe Buckle and now know where one is locally but they said he is not cheap, so far the parts I want to put in it are not cheap either. I am going with aluminum heads with 205 valves and 195 intake runners and 64cc chambers, forged H-beam rods, flat top pistons or +55 domes which should put the compression around 11:1, trying to decide on a camshaft for it, going to run either a performer RPM intake with a 750 Edlebrock carb or the same carb on a Performer Air Gap manifold. Of course it will be running the roller rockers like the last one, I really liked the fact that they were easy to install and adjust and I never heard them tick. I am going for about 375 HP with the torque up in the higher RPM range. It should really kick in around 2200 and stay strong to around 6500. I will put this one on the dyno when I get it going.

So far just in parts I am looking at around $3k and the machine work around 1K with the splaying of the main caps.

john the machinist ...
does a great job.

my stuff is there right now.

PM me his number if you have it please

Scottarama

This is Johns info... he is as good on Type IVs as he is on V8s

John Edwards

Costa Mesa R&D Automotive Machine Shop

123 Monte Vista Ave

Costa Mesa, CA 92627

(949) 631-6376

and is a great human to boot. i always come away with some knowledge and a smile.

I called and spoke w/ John earlier today... My parts will be in his hands tommorrow...

The rest of you guys can get in line behind me dammit... LOL

BJH

i just have to write him a check... my stuff is done-
what are you having him to BJ? he has a bunch of scooooby stuff in there too.

STI shortblock, and some head work... I need a bit more HP, and lots more TQ

BJ,

I don't know if you were aware that John does most, if not all of Lance Nists machine work on his 600+ HP suby engines. He also does the SUBY steel liner conversions and the dry sump pan conversions.

He knows some stuff.... Me thinks...

He used to be the prototype guy at Kieth Black for some years. Then moved on to Sunnen to help run their R&D facility's.

He also wrote a couple of books that you guys might have some interest in. You can get em at Amazon.

1.) Sunnen's complete cylinder head and engine rebuilding handbook by John G. Edwards

2.) Turret Mill Operation by John G. Edwards

3.) Lathe Operation and Maintenance by John Edwards

And 4 other books plus 2 automotive videos. He is also the monthly engine performance author for "Sand Sport" Magazine.

I dunno... I guess the guy knows something... And he is ugly and smells bad. Udder than that... I don't know the guy...

Ask John about his alcohol conversions! I've got an article he wrote on doing a Suby/ethanol conversion - made a bunch more power!

Maybe run that V8 on alchy?

Parts car arrived today, it is a complete 72 with 1.7 and tailshifter still in it. I think I am going to try to make it run before taking it all apart. The motor looks complete with the FI still on it. I have a battery charging for it right now. Anyway, here are the pictures of it just for the keepsake of the thread.

GREAT looking "parts car"

BJH

It's not bad actually, I have not done any rust assessment yet, Carmen's 10 year old wants the car for his project. That would give him 6 years to restore this car, what do you think?

a 1.7 powered teen, that he has put his sweat, tears and blood into would be nice, trouble is 90% of kids 1st cars get wrecked... so maybe a toyota tercel would be a better choice.

BJH

Well, I just threw a battery in and the car turns over, there is no gas in it so we will get some tomorrow. The 10 year old is so excited he is going to pee his pants. I am working at the port tomorrow and wont be home till around 6 so he is all sad and thinks that Jared will help him tomorrow. He already pulled the front bumper off to open the front deck lid to see what was in it. The rust so far doesnt really look very bad on the underside. There is some typical rust by the drivers side door handle and the front windshield but the trunks look really good. I will look underneath it tomorrow when I get home.

Dropped off the engine block and crank today with John Edwards, super nice guy with a sense of humor too. Told him there was no rush on it as the car has a very long way to go yet. I did tell him my goal to get it together around the end of summer. He has a very busy shop with a very wide array of engine types.

did you see my stuff there? i got to go pick it up this week.... ill drop bye.

I did ask him about it, he said he sold it for storage fees. Anything held past the deadline is sold to the highest bidder, he said some guy named Clayton bought it for like $40.91 with tax.




No, I didnt see it there, but he had so much stuff there I dont know how he keeps track of it all.

I am back working on the car again since it is in the garage and all. It's a nice day here in Sunny Southern California and I really should be over helping Joe pull his engine out so he can get it over to the paint shop and get it going. Our schedules did not coincide today so I came home and started in on mine. I got the passenger side of the outter stiffening kit welded in and will weld in the small pieces next and then grind it as smooth as possible with a 4" grinder. I pulled the entire rear suspension so I can weld in all the pieces correctly without trying to work around the control arms. They needed to come off anyway to clean them up and weld on the stiffening kit and then I may have them powder coated. Some of my welds dont look as good as some of my others, I think I need a new mask as I am having trouble seeing what I am doing as I go. I should have the entire outer long kit welded in today and then I can get started on the inner long kit from Engman. I also have the front sway bar reinforcement kit to weld in on the front along with the actual sway bar mounts to weld in so I may pull the front suspension today as well and put the car up on 4 jackstands. Yes, I am taking pictures as I go to document progress and what I have done to the car. I will post some up now and then more later today.

I am also looking for a few parts if any V8 guys have these parts laying around and they want to sell them, let me know, they are the parts circled in the picture.

Why cant I get a straight car for once??? I was working on the car today and started stripping the paint from the rear quarter that had the dent in it on the drivers side. I knew that both rear fenders had been grafted on from other cars and the dent should have been easy to repair. Not sure what I will do at this point but I will continue to strip all the bondo and crap and I may wind up just replacing the whole quarter panel with one I have on the side of the house. Notice the door gap and the line where the metal ends. I would guess the bondo amounts to about 8 to 10 pounds on this side alone.

The last shot is looking up inside the fender

A little progress update and question. Can anyone identify the front struts on this car? Isnt green struts Bilstien? Or are the Boge? It is a Carrera front suspension and I will be griding off the front sway bar rings to replace with the U tabs to run a through the body sway bar. I am also going to replace the tie rods with a set of the Turbo tie rods so if anyone has any laying around, let me know. Here are some pictures of the progress I am making on this car so far.

I don't remember the color codes but mine had "BOGE" stamped into the strut.

green housings are bilstein....

if its black with a green dustcap up top... its a bogelstein (bilstein was the only company to make replacement upper caps LOL)

black housings say BOGE on them as allan mentioned

They are reasonably Cheap new... The thermostat housing is an alluminum housing w/ a glass fiber (high tech plastic) threaded 90... Same w/ the block inlet pieces next to it. Assuming the aluminum is in decent shape (and it's hard to hurt...) you can replace just the plastic 90 degree fittings. The water pump inlet is cheap on it's own.

Call Scott @ Renegade(866-498-2421), and tell him i said to give you a good deal.

BJ H

I called him today and the parts with everything I need is $179.00 which includes the thermostat housing and 4 of the small 90's for the block and the pump and also the filler neck for the firewall. Probably order it later this week or next, I just need the money to start flowing in again.

Scott you can get the glass reinforced plastic pipe fittings HERE
I suspect its pretty close to where you live

Bob

Progress report for today, I worked on it a little last night and all day today. Here are some pictures of what it is looking like so far. Long way to go yet but I think it is coming along just fine.

Heya skliney... Give us an update!

If I'm not working this Weds. or Thurs. I'll head down and give you a hand demolisherrrr restoring the car

Well, it's Saturday of Memorial weekend and I am stuck in town hoping for a job at the port this weekend so I figure I would do some stuff to my car since there is so much to do. Today, I got up and decided to cut off the fender I just worked over trying to make it right. Since the door gap was not good and never would be right so I fingured I would fix it and make it right Thats what I try to do. Well, as you can see, I have cut part of the fender off to replace with a new one I have here already. The door gap was really messed up so I knew I would have to start there. I cut back to the middle of the fender right in front of the fender well opening. I kind of liked the way the PO had flared it to fit 225's on 7 inch wheels and still look stock at first glance. Well, the damage to the door jamb was worse than I had expected after I cut it off. I can fix it and I will have to now in any case. After talking to Joe Buckle, I am thinking I may buy his rear flares he has up in his garage that he has changed his mind about using and he in now going with a full Sheridan kit. I want to get those from him and see how they look on the car and what I will need to weld back in to use them. Here are some pics of what I have done so far this morning.

Hey Scotty,
For the water/thermostat housing on the water pump you can probably go to your FLAPS and match it up for like $10-20. It looks a lot like an old camaro one except for the bend int he neck.
You look very competent in what you are doing, keep it up!

Well it's been almost 2 months since I had time or inclination to work on the car. Today, I got motivated after seeing Ed (Willowcreeklane) drive off in his car I did the front 5 lug conversion on and decided to work on my car and weld the fender back on. The drawback is that when I cut the panel off the car, I should have looked at the one I was going to put back on. I cut off too much from the car and the new panel is a tad shy in the door jamb at the base so I am going to have to weld in a piece from the old door jamb to make it right. It's been a long day here and I got the new panel on the car after much grinding, cutting and test fitting. It didn't come out too bad so far. Much more work is needed to get it all straight and all welded in. So far, everything lines up ok. The new panel has no bondo on it so that is a plus right off the bat. I want to get as much done on it tonight as I can because I have to work tomorrow at the port. There were a few gaps here and there that I need to tend to and weld in the holes for the sail panel trim but I think it is going to turn out just fine. Here are some progress pics for now.

Here is the motivational shot of Ed driving off with his car this morning. It made me want to drive a 914 again. My own that is.

I think the size is wrong so you'd need a reducer and you only have 2 directions of choice. I fit a swivel housing I bought for ~$20 with my Jaide engine mount bar. It was thicker than the Renegade so it had less room. I used the RH outlet after I bought a RH engine mount bar.