Here are the pics of the prototype. If there is any interest, this may be one of my next produts.

It hets pretty cold here in Michigan, its 26F right now and I do need a heater. I had a heater under my dash and I got tired of looking at it so I came up with this.

It uses the stuck heat/fan controls on the dash. The fan works in the usual way and the red heat director lever actuates the water control valve to control the temp of the heat exchanger.

Mark

Here is one of the heater control valve.
Does anyone know what these wires are for? The red is + and the 2 browns do not give me anything, + or -

Mark

Here is the pass side

As you can see, the original heat vents are plugged.

Mark

Thats what I was going to do!! Cool!

cept mine was to be an oil cooler...

Mark,

Are the heater hoses routed through the original heater tubes back to the engine compartment?

Nice job.

Andys

Very Cool, nice job.

NICE job Mark ... I'm envious !!!

Curious - what prompted you to grab water from the engine rather than the shorter run to the front radiator ???

Any chance you would allow me to include pix of the setup in my book '914-V8 Conversion Reference Manual' ??? With full credit, of course.

Again, great job ... hope you are willing to share with the V8 newbies.

Best ... ed.ducey@gmail.com

Andys-
Yes, my heater lines run inside the longs back to the engine

Propricer-
Feel free to use my stuf in your book. Check out my website listed in my signature for my gaues and stuff.

I do not tap off the lines to the radiator for a couple of reasons.
I like to keep water going through the engine when the t stat is closed. You may have noticed the return hole on the block where the water pump was is usually blocked by the new coolant line fittings. Keeping coolant flowing through the engine always helps to prevent cavitation and aids in expelling any air pockets.

My water pump has a provision for a heater suction side and I come off of the engine in the stock location on the manifold. I also have a small return line from the high side to the low side to keep some coolant flowing even when the t stat and heater control valve are closed.

I was thinking of making a kit for this conversion, I will test it next week when I get back home.

Mark

That is sweet, I will be needing one of those in mine, being old, I get cold easily and the defrost would be a plus too.

The brown wires are ground(s). Try to trace the sheath to locate the power source to the red wire. Tape that red terminal up so's you don't short out and/or blow the fuse

Nice job on the heater ... What did you use for the heat exchanger?

That is COOL.....When will it be available....I WANT ONE!

Let me know...

Steve

thanks for the input everyone.
If i were to offer these, would you want just the box with the core installed, or everything? (box, water control valve, j-pipe, etc?
Would you guys want a complete assembly or ship tours to me for modifications?

Thanks

Mark

I should have the Porschev valve covers in about 2 weeks

Mark,
That's some nice work!

I would like to have everything (heater related) in the picture - minus the hoses. Nice work, keeps us from reinventing the wheel.

I would like one of everything as well. Let us know when you put something together and what the cost is. Looks really good and solves an important problem for some of us.

Yeah--where do you get the actual exchanger? Also--to do sourcing on the mystery wire, you COULD (your option--but exciting!) purposely short hot to ground just to see which fuse blows (maybe after first checking the red for current). Or, for the more prudent willing to spend more time on it, put a load into the line and check which fuse circuit shows current flow (what a drag).
Now about the origins of the exch. unit--new or recycled--if its not top secret?

Very clean job.

I was wondering if oil could also be used for this as well, via an adaptor plate on the oil filter console?

oil in something like an oil cooler for aircooled engines that could be shut off or bypassed in the summer

The heat exchanger is new. It will use any liquid to heat it, so oil coild be used as well as coolant.
I have not had a chance to test it since my ignition cylinder broke and I still have the tank out to put my swaybar on. I should have it running and tested this weekend. The theory is sound, so it should work.

I think the Kit would consist of the heat exchanger in the air box, and the coolant control valve with optional j-pipe.
I would leave threaded fittings on the heat so that the customer could go to the hardware store and get the proper hose barbs for their particular size coolant lines.
I know Renegade's steup is $395, I plan on being less than half.

Mark

Add an AC evaporator, and I'll be interested too.

I'm interested

What waterpump are you using? If it's a Renegade pump do they always come with heater suction inlet?

Thanks

I am using a Desert Hybrids pump. it does have the water return on the pump. I do not know if Renegade has this provision. You can always come off of the intake manifold stock water outlet, to the heater core and then plumb it back to the suction side hose somewhere.

Mark

Finally got the sway bar and the tank in, fired it up to test the heater. Seems to work Ok. The air is not hot by any means, but pretty warm. Its been and is going to be in the 30s-40s the rest of the week so I will drive the car as much as I can to see how the heater works out. Should be fine. Replacing my fresh air hoses made a world of difference in the force of the air coming through the vents. I will get some numbers up by the weekend.

Mark

Hey Great Work !



I am pretty sure once you drive it you will see a big difference in the heat output. The coolant has a long way to travel, extra RPM might be needed. Whenever I do my conversion, I had thought of a system similar to yours would be perfect.

Keep us informed

Later

Any updates on this set up?

I'm going to be doing something like this very soon
Oil cooler up front
Lever actuation to change where the air is going. Vent it out when it is warm outside and vent the heat into the cabin when it is cold (also, possibly add a fan within the ducting to get a little more flow when needed)
We'll see how it turns out

Mark,
What does the inside look like? How did you put the heater core in that little box?
Thank You!!!!
Phillip J. Haun
Oak Harbor, WA.

The heaters are coming, probably this fall, mid September. I have been slammed at work, plus the quad gauges/tachs and I am going on vacation in a couple of weeks then I have my brother's wedding next month, then I can get going on them.
The prototype works well, I have found a denser core that looks like it will work. I am also trying to keep the price below $200 which looks like it may happen, maybe $225 at the most, including everything except the hoses/clamps.

Phillip,
I don't have a pic of the inside, its just a heater core in there with a closeout on the bottom and some of the upper rain flap trimmed from the bottom. The box is bigger than you think.

Mark

Any updates on this? I'm planning to start collecting all the V8 parts I'll need, and something like this is definitely on my list! It looks awesome.

Yes, Updates please!!!! Winter is here!!!

Has anyone ever thought of using a Water to Air intercooler that uses the stock heater core lines off the engine and then uses the stock 914 blower motors and heater flappers to keep the 914 stock heater intact? Sounds to me like that is the easiest and most stock way of doing 914 heat and in the summer you can keep them running through the intercoolers that are used the opposite way and have a switch to kick the blower motors on too!

A/C and heater and I will buy up also.

Seems like in the past I had seen a 914 member that had made one of these setups?

Does the blower suck in cold air that blows over the oil cooler and vented into the cab?

Not sure if it is doable, but since I had the Renegade under dash unit, I was wondering if I could run some duct work from the under dash unit up to the defroster vents?

I was told by Steve at Renegade on Thursday that you could .

I'll have to crawl around under there and take a closer look, since it now sounds like it is a possibility.

>four year old thread and Mark S. hasn't even been logged on this year since late July. Anybody heard from him?

Guess mine is already set up to divert the air from the under dash to the vents with switching the lever where it forks into the "Y"

Click to view attachment

Couldnt a guy make some Heat exchangers for the V8 exhaust?

Maybe with marine exhaust manifolds, but it's water heat. If you had good sheetmetal skills, a hot air exchanger could be made.

I was planning to put one of these
Click to view attachment

into one of these
Click to view attachment

and hook up the stock fan. It would still use the heater tubes in the longs like a stock system. By locating it in the engine bay, routing should be less of a hassle.

Yes!Hot air xchngr is what im talking about.Not that hard.Has anyone done this?

I like that box, where do you get it from?

ruby,

Its from this catalog. You want page 191. I believe they are in the UK.

They also show this . . .
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They've got some great stuff! Is there any reason why this couldn't be set up as an external oil cooler? I'm thinking that if you run one on each side and connect them up to the tube in the longs you could have heat like crazy regardless of whether you are aircooled or watercooled.

Ernie, that's basically what I had in mind, except I was going to start with one and go from there.

The Renegade Hybrids under dash unit has the capability to run the air hoses up to the defrost vents or vent it out directly from the unit into the cab.

I have a 71 Chalon with a SBC. When building the car, I incorporated a heater core in the fresh air blower case and ran a couple of feet of heater hose from it with the intention of someday getting it all connected. Well, that day is here. My question is whether it's feasible to tie the the heater core lines to the radiator inlet and outlet hoses via T's instead of running the heater core lines back to the engine's intake manifold and water pump.

What do you think... doable?
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

Surely someone has an answer; an opinion... something!

Sorry, I didn't see the question. Yes, in theory you should be able to flow a heater core from the inlet and outlet of the radiator. Flow will vary based on things like hose size, port resistance, parasitic drag, pressure differential, etc... But it should work. If you can find a Y fitting and point it the right direction (with flow) it should work better.

Like this...