New engine is in the car and friday was the first time trying to start the engine. This is a 2.0 EFI. Filled it with oil, built up some oil pressure, installed the plugs. Calibrated the new TS. Engine was hard to get started, when it started it ran like hell, was near the end of the day so bagged it until Sat. Sat. pulled a compression test and got these results, 1 = 125 lbs. 2 = 120 lbs. 3 = 120 lbs. 4 = 125lbs. Check the injectors and were flowing good. Checked all the connections from the harness, all looked good. MPS is new and has been tested and calibrated. ECU is rebuilt and match the MPS. AAR is working ok, decel valve seems to be working ok. All new hoses, vacuum hose all seem to be connected good with all new hose. Just looking for some advice on whats next for me to be looking for?

timing, once you get it to idle you can set the timing and go from there

Getting it started is the first step . Get out you timing light and set the timing right and go from there.

compression numbers should come up when the rings seat? How about timing and dwell? Valve adjustment? I recently did a top end on my car that otherwise ran good with the exception of low compression. New motor in and car ran like crap. All FI and ignition was same as before. Replaced condensor and all was right again. Sometimes it the simplest things that get us.

Can you time the engine if the engine will not start other than the mechanical proceedure using a timing light. The condensor is brand new, we checked all the plugs to make sure they were getting spark, and all plugs were getting spark. Fuel lines are set up correctly. Fuel pressure has been set to 29 lbs. and the fuel pump is working fine.

you may have to mess with the static timing to get it to start again static timing is just that to get you close to start it

Already tried static timing (moving dizzy) that didn't seem to help..

verify that the dist drive gear is installed correctly (12 degree spec) which positions the dist rotor which affects timing. don't ask me how i know.... (thanks to norustscott)

Yes. That was my next thought also. BTDT too.

Valve adjustment has to be close to right too.

I would vote for the follwing idiot checks, and mainly because I bet you cant find anyone here who HAS NOT done this.

Plug wires are on wrong.
FI wiring is reversed at the injectors.

Rich

Good day today, got the new engine running. Found the problem was in the FI wiring harness, some the the wiring was installed wrong. My fault there. Some of the wiring on the Distributor Trigger Switch and the MPS were not in their correct places. After placing all the numbered wires in the correct slots on the plastic clip, the car fired right up and ran strong. Ran in enough to break in the cam. With the wires being in the wrong places it was just flooding the engine with gas. Gas got into the oil also. Let the car cool down, drained all the oil, pulled the filter. Tomorrow I will replace the oil and filter, and get the timing an dwell set. I'm a happy camper. I found only 1 place that was leaking oil, the cover over the strainer basket is where its leaking some oil.