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rettigdw914
Long time reader, first time poster here. If it wasn't for all of the great info on this site, I wouldn't have come half as far as I have on this project.

The problem I am having is at 60degF. ambient, cold engine, the car starts, jumps to 2000rpm for about 5seconds, then sputters and dies. It is very repeatable.

Does this sound like a vacuum leak or ignition problems or other?


Parts replaced/checked:
Rebuilt fuel pump(30psi solid),
Injectors flow tested and ultrasonically cleaned(4ml for 10sec crank)
Rebuilt MPS from Bret, also used another Bosch original.
Used two different ECMs
TPS calibrated
All electrical loads to ECU resistance checked per pbanders site.

All Vacuum lines replaced, not all German hose but has good fit
Injector seals replaced
Intake runner gaskets and hose to plenum replaced
Checked cork gasket on oil fill cap and is old but sealing

Rebuilt distributor
New points,condenser,cap,rotor,coil, wires,plugs(.024")
Dwell is 42deg., out of spec. but should still run. right?
Timing set to 27 deg bef. TDC, but I have been moving the dizzy around.
Valves checked, OK

I might try the carb cleaner trick to check for vacuum leaks but any other ideas are appreciated and welcomed.

Things not replaced are: TPS gasket, Cold start seal?, AAR(it is open, not sure if closes)

Thanks,
-Don
jonferns
haha...carb cleaner....what an experience..biggrin.gif biggrin.gif biggrin.gif ....i wouldnt recomend it....--JON biggrin.gif
r_towle
If the car only runs for 5 seconds, how do you know you have 30 PSI of fuel pressure?

Take a close look at the fuel lines, under the tank for kinks, and make sure they are on the proper fitting for supply, return and pressure.

Rich
Bleyseng
agree.gif
rettigdw914
Thanks for the input guys, maybe I will hold off on that carb cleaner idea.

As far as Fuel pressure goes I do have a pressure gage connected to the rail on the drivers side but I haven't had someone watch it closely when the engine dies.

I'll check it out, Thanks again!!!

rettigdw914
OK, I had the neighbor come over and watch the fuel pressure gage. After the car started, then dies, Fuel pressure was 30 psi continuous until the fuel pump stops of course. So I think fuel flow is good. -- thanks Rich and Geoff.

One other thing I checked was compression, it was 120psi +/- 5, but when I pulled the plugs out they were all sooty black. I think this indicates running rich.

The dial on my ECU is set at the manufacturers mark for LEAN/RICH.

I also found another 1.7 914 for sale and put my MPS on it and it ran fine.

any other ideas welcome.

I hope I don't need another part, my wife won't like it too much.
r_towle
ok,
You are getting an initial blast of fuel, and the timing is wrong.

So, on the timing, get the points set correctly, your dwell it wrong.
Show me the distributor position in a picture from the passenger side, stand back so I can see the fan shroud, and the dizzy in position.
We can get you pretty close to properly timed just by looking.

So,
Fuel.
Have you tested it while running?
Take out one injector, put it in a glass jar, and start the car.
I want to see you find fuel when the car is running versus when you are cranking it.
The ECU behaves different when you crank the starter versus run the car .
It sounds like you get the initial shot of fuel from the cold start injector, and possibly the main injectors, but when you put the key in the run position, all fuel is shut off.

You need to also trace the fuel circuit, check all the relays and fuses, and check for grounding in that curcuit.

Try this.
Unplug the fuel pump (at the fuel pump)
Run two temporary wires directly to the battery, do a nice job so they do not vibrate off the pump.
You can (when you are ready) run the pump nonstop, go and start the car, then when you shut it off, just unhook the pump from the battery.

This test will tell you if the fuel circuit needs to be closely examined and look for the issue in the electric side of the fuel deliver system.

If it behaves the same way, I am still thinking that the hoses are wrong, or kinked.
You can still pressurize the system and use the cold start if you have connected the hoses wrong on the fuel pump, or in the engine bay.

Rich
TravisNeff
Make sure that your FI trigger points are plugged into the harness (it is a 4 prong plug that attaches to the distributor).
bd1308
3 prong connector

does the fuel pump turn on for a short bit when you turn the key to on before starting?
rettigdw914
Update: the Fuel pump does spin at key-on and i can see pressure build on the fuel pressure gage.

Also, the trigger points are plugged into the dizzy and open/close alternately as the dizzy rotates.

Rich- Thats good info. I set the dwell to 48 deg. now, starts quicker, still acts the same but does run a little longer

I am attaching a picture of my distributor position.

Regarding Fuel, I have checked flow during crank but not running, Good idea!, will try to do that tomorrow.
Electrically, I have verified the fuel pump circuit, the connections to all injectors with a meter, but your test will rule out intermittent connections, which are a pain in the... another good idea.

If that all passes, then your right, I'll have to re-check my connections. I know my feed line from the fuel tank is not blocked, but not sure about the return line.

Thanks again.
Don

John
I see two things that confuse me with your picture.

I circled them in red.

1. What is the tube going to the timing access hole plug?

2. Is the tiny bit of copper braid on the points plate supposed to be the ground connection? If so, it is broken and may not be providing the ground that your points need to function correctly.



Just my opinions.
rettigdw914
The hose to the fan shroud goes back to the charcoal canister near the fuel tank.

This distributor is rebuilt, so it did not come with a braid , but came with a grounding wire as seen just below the points. I'll double check it when I get home to make sure.

Thanks
Don
rettigdw914
Update: I pulled one of the injectors out and put it in a glass jar. (Gerber baby jars work well)
I started the car and it jumped to 3500-4000rpm as expected with the huge vacuum leak, then died. I checked my the jar and there was no fuel. I plugged the injector port with a rag, started the engine, ran about 1500rpm for 5 sec, then died and still no fuel in the jar. I also put LEDs in the back of the injector connector to make sure it was getting signal and it was pulsing nicely.
It is really blowing my mind that you can have fuel pressure, and a good pulse to open the injector armature, but get no fuel flow.

Looks like I have a kink or I have a problem with my fuel pump install. Will try to check it later in the week.

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction, I would have never guessed.
Don
rettigdw914
Update: I took a look at me fuel filter and there was alot of rust in it(tank side). Then checked the tank and a bunch of rust there too. So that looked like my restriction. I pulled the tank, sealed it, blew out the lines and verified no kinks and proper routing.

One more question, the car acts the same, starts, runs for 5 seconds then dies. I did notice that if I remove the vacuum hose from the MPS, it runs at 1500rpm just fine.

so does this still sound like a fueling issue? a restriction?
Dave_Darling
Pulled hose from MPS == high pressure to MPS. The FI sees that as "tons and tons of air going into the motor", and gives you the max fuel it can for whatever the current temperature readings are. That apparently offsets the fact that not a lot of fuel is actually getting through your injectors at any given time (the FI opens them for longer). Plus the hefty vacuum leak you are introducing....

Still sounds like a major fueling issue!!

--DD
rettigdw914
Thanks Dave. I kinda suspected that. Wonder if some rust has gone to the injectors.

I will pull cyl. 1 injector and check the amout its dispensing when the engine runs for 5 seconds, pull the injector clean it with a carb cleaner, blow it out and remeasure.
If anyone has taken a measurement like this at idle, would like to know fuel volume you got for any amount of time.

links to an "economical" professional injector cleaning house would be appreciated cause I might need it.





Bartlett 914
QUOTE(rettigdw914 @ Jul 6 2007, 07:32 AM) *


links to an "economical" professional injector cleaning house would be appreciated cause I might need it.

Cruzinperformance.com They are in MI. Did a nice job for me.
rettigdw914
Final Update: I found rust chips in my injectors. Blew them out and the car runs like a champ!!!!

Thanks for all of your help and pointing me in the right direction!!!!!!
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