There are a couple of little issues that it's uncovered, but nothing to make me cry

Great use of an old mattress...
Looking good.
Now go open a Newcastle and enjoy!

You are among the few that can say "rust free".

It makes me so happy to be able to as well! The hell hole cam out fine as well, not a single hole!

looks cool

is this the one that was originally canary yellow??

Gustl

Way to go Dude, looks Good. Can't wait to see her done, as I am sure you feel.

Yes - I tried to save as much of the original shell as I could and it's come out OK

Very nice!

put in a Raby type IV and you'll have a nice car!

Very nice! Good luck with that and keep us posted (with pics of course).

That looks great! So this is an acid dip car? Was it done at the same place as the e-coat? Is the e-coat supposed to cover the inside of the longs/etc? What prep is necessary before paint?

You're a pioneer!

It's got the wrong engine mounts for a type IV...




Yep, the same place did the acid dip. The E-coat goes inside all the box sections and inaccessible areas - that's why I had it done. A fair amount of the outside coat will be lost when it gets the skim of filler over the wings. I've got to replace the LHS engine bay side panel and a tiny section of inner wing at the bottom of where the oil tank sits as well so that bit won't be coated.

The whole process isn't cheap, at the moment it'd work out at about $4000 for a 914. There was a real GT40 going through when I was there, and loads of big old Mopars and Fords lying about the place - apparently they get cars from all over the world.

I'm not sure about pre-paint prep - I believe it can be painted over

US$4k? Crap... But this certainly seems like the way to go -- the electrocoating process should take care of the question of acid left in seams etc, no?

I'm curious though... You mentioned losing the coating due to some filler on the fenders/wings, and having to replace some sheetmetal.

1) Why is the body filler needed? Isn't there some way to avoid that?
2) Did the need for these replacement bits only surface during the work?

My thought is to make the shell "perfect" before coating and do everything possible to avoid any damage to the e-coat afterwards. I'm sure you'd've done that if you could, so I'd like to know what the gotcha's are...

Thanks again for sharing the pics and experience!

The end cap of one of the sills disappeared during the acid dipping process It looked and felt like metal until it went through the tank, then it turned out to be underseal and crud...

The other bits are LHS engine bay side panel, which is corroded where the sound proofing on the firewall used to sit on it, and the panel behind the dash board, which is incorrect for the car but I didn't have time to alter it before e-coating (my bad). The car's original was corroded due to a leaky scuttle so I used the later panel with air vent holes from my parts car.

The e-coat doesn't entirely eliminate the problem of acid getting trapped. There was still some under the re-enforcement plate in centre of the rear trunk that dribbled out after rinsing.

... takes notes ...

Thanks again for sharing what you learned doing this!

Very nice.