wheel base is wider.... by 4MM

track.
(wheel base is distance from front wheel center to rear wheel center.)

I did not see it mentioned. Did all the early 914's receive the white head light surrounds. I have seen it mentioned on othe fourms the six cars got black??

Did you just call me clueless!

I have seen it mentioned on othe fourms the six cars got black??

Tool kit - what are the differences?

My six had no headliner also, but I bought it in 1997 so who knows. Now Dr.914 told me at parade it was the way it came from factory! HELP!!! Who's right.

Gary

If anyone knows of this car, any history available is appreciated.

This is a factory 914-6 # 1396 manufactured April 1970. It has factory steel flares and was raced for a number of years before going into storage. I don’t know the extent of its racing history, however there are IMSA, SCCA and PCA stickers on the windshield. The previous owner was an active member of the Porsche community, but I have been unable to get in touch with him to get more history on the car.

My plan was to restore it to be street legal with factory racer look. While there is currently no drivetrain, it does include very hard to find items like the factory 914-6 oil tank, factory 914-6 oil cooler, and factory engine mount, as pictured. The car also comes with freshly rechromed front and rear bumpers. The bumper tops are just ok.

When the car was retired many of the race spec parts were removed, like the fiberglass hood and deck lids, so they have been replaced with stock steel parts, and were given a quick coat of orange. The pedal assembly, calipers, and rear rotors were also removed. Replacements are readily available. The only part that would be difficult to find are the original rear calipers, but later 911 calipers are very affordable and perform much better. The master cylinder is still there, as well as front rotors, and stainless brake lines. It also has turbo tie rods. There is an adjustable proportioning valve that’s still in the center tunnel.

The body is very straight and the doors both open and close easily. It looks like someone started sanding it down for a repaint. There were a couple spots where the paint/primer got thin, so I hit those areas with orange paint just to keep corrosion at bay until it was time to restore it. The only ding worth mentioning is towards the front of the hood on the passenger’s side, and it’s small.

While the car is solid, there was a repair done to the passenger’s side longitudinal that is clearly non-factory. The work appears to have been done a long time ago, and perhaps the factory repair panels were not available at the time. In any event, I’ve included pictures of the area in question, and I would personally consider replacing the section with a factory piece from restoration design or from a donor car. The door gap and alignment is excellent, and while a bit creative, it has evidently been strong enough to withstand the rigors of racing. It’s hard to tell if it was replaced as a result of corrosion like most of them have, or as a result of an accident. If I had to guess I’d say probably an accident, as the car does not
appear to have been particularly rusty.

I did find a little bit of rust in the front trunk, where the wiring harness exits the firewall (see pic) and it appears to be fairly minor. There is a small spot at the bottom of the windshield on the driver's side where some pitting took place, but the steel is still solid. There's a small area on the pass. fender, near where an antanna hole would be where some filler was used. I don't know if it was related to corrosion or not, but worth mentioning.

I would strongly suggest removing all the suspension and inspecting all the load bearing mounting points, as they are subject to fatigue with track use, and even with spirited road use. I would personally consider doing a chemical dip/strip on the entire chassis. That way it reveals the good, the bad, and the ugly.

The 914-6 is finally going up enough in value that it makes financial sense to do a thorough restoration. With the chassis stripped it would be fairly straight forward to graft in any needed parts from a nice west coast donor car. It’s not uncommon to see a solid 914-4 chassis sell for a few hundred dollars and provide all the necessary factory sheet metal. The two other areas I noticed were a small repair in the front left corner under the head light that was pretty well done and the sheet metal apron behind the rear bumper looks to have been bent up at some point and then straightened. Access is very good and it would be easy to repair.

The rear spoiler is not currently mounted, and no holes have been drilled in the lid. The wheels are factory forged 15x8’s in the rear, and 15x7 pseudo fuchs in the front. The front targa seal is in nice condition, as are the side seals on the targa bar. The wiring looks to be in very good condition. The rear valance and rocker panels are stock steel pieces. The oil tank should be cleaned by a radiator shop before use, but appears in excellent condition. The oil cooler has been cleaned and pressure tested, so should be fine to use as is.

The interior is really quite nice and in good condition. Obviously no carpets, but the car still retains the factory non-movable passenger seat. I should also note that the car still has the correct 914-6 steering wheel. These wheels are sought after by the 911 crowd to make a correct 911 RS wheel. They typically sell between $350 and $500 unrestored, and are very difficult to find. The part number is 914.347.803.10 and is dated 10/69.

The rear wheel bearings were just replace using new FAG bearings. The hubs and stub axles were converted to use the more commonly available 914-4 CV joints and axles. The 914-6 joints have been unavailable for some time. Both joints are the same size, but have a different axle spline count. The stub axles have been torqued to 225 ft lbs. The bearings were replaced because someone didn’t realize the stub axle has to be in and torqued to prevent the bearings form being damaged when the car is moved.

I guess that about covers it. I’ve taken pictures of all the areas I’d like to see if I was looking at a car in person. The life of a race car is not an easy one, but this one should be pretty easy to bring back to life. It’s not uncommon to see vintage racers where the vin plate is the only thing left of the original car. There is a lot of debate as to whether those cars are really worth the financial premium they command considering there isn’t much left of the original chassis.
Fortunately this car isn’t in that category.

With a little sweat equity, this car should make a lot of financial sense for whoever finishes it. While the chassis will need some work, it’s still considerably better than doing the extensive rust repair than so many 914’s need. Please let me know if you have any questions, I’ll do my best to answer in a timely manner. I always suggest inspecting a car in person, but I know that’s not always possible, so I’ve taken lots of pictures. If you or a friend would like to inspect the car I’ll do my best to accommodate your schedule.

The car has a clean and clear title. I’ll be happy to work with a shipping company if the buyer makes the arrangements. I’ll also offer to transport the car for about $1 per loaded mile. That means $275 to Phoenix or LA, $500 to the Bay Area, etc. I hope that helps. Of course the car will have to be paid for in full prior to being loaded on a transport or me delivering it. A cashier’s check is probably the most common form of payment, but I’ll have to cash it before releasing the vehicle or title. I’ll be happy to take cash in person should that be preferable. I can give plenty of references of people I’ve both bought and sold high dollar items to.

My feedback and ultimately your satisfaction are very important to me, so please only bid if you are a serious buyer. I take my responsibilities seriously, please do the same.

If you are new to ebay, please contact me and I’ll do my best to walk you through it and explain the process. I do reserve the right to cancel any bids I feel may compromise the integrity of the auction, and to end the auction early should a
local sale occur.
Thanks, and good luck

OK - Serious question for the experts, please. Did the 1970 914-6 have the same charcoal canister fuel evaporative control system that the -4 did? I ask, because my -6 doesn't, and I'm trying to determine if that's the reason for the rather strong gas smell in the cockpit. All fuel lines have either been checked out or replaced, including the tunnel. The other obvious suspect is the gas cap, but it looks in pretty good condition. Any suggestions/ideas seriously appreciated. Thanks.

- MR

Check your rear window seals....??

Check your rear window seals....??

You know, that's a really good idea. I've had it looked at by 2 well-respected local professionals and they didn't bring that idea up. They did agree that the smell was stronger than it should be. Still begs the question: did the stock -6 have the same charcoal canister system? Thanks.

- MR

I have been told that 914-6's had no sound deadening pad in the engine compartment on the firewall. Does anybody know if that is true?

If these two are both #9140430011, then the "before" and "after" photos merit some sort of disclosure as to who did such a fantastic job in preserving the "originality"

The north american cars have the VIN on a plate in the front windshield. The 914/6 numbers are recessed into the plate while the 914/4 numbers are raised.

The north american cars have the VIN on a plate in the front windshield. The 914/6 numbers are recessed into the plate while the 914/4 numbers are raised.