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I just picked-up this complete, unmolested 1973 914 1.7 for $400.00 (US) in California's Mojave Desert. It is not running and the previous owner claims the car has not been started in ten years… claiming that the engine cranks but does not start.
This is my first adventure into the world of Porsche. I was wondering if anyone out there could help me with some expertise and opinions... PLEASE!
Before I slap-in a battery and try to start the car for the first time, I would like to know if there is a pre-start procedure I should follow or work I should perform before starting this car for the first time. Any thoughts?
The vacuum hoses are shot and I would like to replace them and I feel an urge to replace all the fuel hoses as well.
In your opinion:
1. Should I use stock "OEM" vacuum hoses or should I maybe use something "sportier" (i.e. colored silicone vacuum lines)?
2. What would you recommend for fuel hoses?
3. Can you recommend a good on-line supplier for vacuum and fuel hoses?
In the second photo, you will notice the top flange on the “rubber elbow” that attaches to the air cleaner assembly (see arrow) has been torn-off. I have the flange and clamp and am wondering if there is a way to glue the flange back on? If not, can anyone recommend where I may find a replacement elbow?
I noticed that the fuel injectors on this car are “GREEN” and I have read that green injectors are for a 2.0. I have verified that this engine (EB003960) is a 1.7 and have read that 1.7 injectors are supposed to be “YELLOW”. Is this true and can I expect to have problems with 2.0 injectors on a 1.7 engine?
In your opinion, was $400.00 for this “rust-free” southern California car a good deal (even though it is not running)? Any idea what it is worth in its current condition? The interior is in great shape and the only notable rust I’ve found is superficial and non-structural (i.e. surface rust on the battery tray).
Thank you in advance for any feedback you can afford! I look forward to getting this car on the road!
Full Version: Opinions on 1973 914 1.7 Restoration
Screamin' deal. Yes, you should have the yellow injectors. Seems like most of the time d-jet 914s that won't start aren't getting fuel pump power. When you first turn on the key, the pump should run for a couple seconds and turn off. If that isn't happening, fix that first. (a common culprit is the relay board on the drivers side of the engine compartment)
Welcome Aboard!
$400? Rust free? Score!
Need more pics!
Now - let's get some reality going here. 'Rust free' is a relative term - on e-bay it means 'you can't see anything and it might hold together till you get home'
Around here 'rust free' means "I've stripped it entirely and gotten rid of the rust".
There are degrees between the 2.
If you haven't already have a look:
1 'The hell hole' under the battery box going forward to the firewall. Particularly in the warm states battery acid drips down there and pools at the firewall. It will be rusty (I think I can see some in your engine compartment pic) the question is whether it has perforated that inner fender.
2. Outer Longitudinals. Take off the rocker panels and see what it is like under there. Particularly around the jack points.
3 The floors, of course. They should be covered in about 1/4" of tar stuff but look for any cracks that might indicate rust has gotten inside.
The engine is really simple and easy to bring back to life. You should have no problem there. If the frame is solid and there are no huge bondo reserves you have gotten a great deal.
You are going to get a ton of replies suggesting where to start. Sit back and enjoy!
$400? Rust free? Score!
Need more pics!
Now - let's get some reality going here. 'Rust free' is a relative term - on e-bay it means 'you can't see anything and it might hold together till you get home'
Around here 'rust free' means "I've stripped it entirely and gotten rid of the rust".
There are degrees between the 2.
If you haven't already have a look:
1 'The hell hole' under the battery box going forward to the firewall. Particularly in the warm states battery acid drips down there and pools at the firewall. It will be rusty (I think I can see some in your engine compartment pic) the question is whether it has perforated that inner fender.
2. Outer Longitudinals. Take off the rocker panels and see what it is like under there. Particularly around the jack points.
3 The floors, of course. They should be covered in about 1/4" of tar stuff but look for any cracks that might indicate rust has gotten inside.
The engine is really simple and easy to bring back to life. You should have no problem there. If the frame is solid and there are no huge bondo reserves you have gotten a great deal.
You are going to get a ton of replies suggesting where to start. Sit back and enjoy!
Here's a recent thread on startup of a car that has sat for a while.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=73677
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=73677
Procedure is following !
Correct me if I am wrong but wasn't '73 1.8L and 2.0L engined cars. maybe someone can scan the page from Haynes manual showing where to look for engine codes on the block.
If those chrome steelies and caps are original, someone may want those if you choose to get rid of em. Oh and BTW good
and
If those chrome steelies and caps are original, someone may want those if you choose to get rid of em. Oh and BTW good
and
nope 1.8 introduced in 74.
Not to hijack the thread but where do you get hub caps like that?
Great find, hope its truly rust free
QUOTE(bondo @ Jul 26 2007, 05:37 PM) 
Screamin' deal. Yes, you should have the yellow injectors. Seems like most of the time d-jet 914s that won't start aren't getting fuel pump power. When you first turn on the key, the pump should run for a couple seconds and turn off. If that isn't happening, fix that first. (a common culprit is the relay board on the drivers side of the engine compartment)
Thank you for your input, Bondo! I really appreciate it! I thought I was getting a pretty good deal... good to hear it from someone else!
"Virtually" rust-free...
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great find man..."rust free" does in fact have different meanings...there is "rust free at first glance" where it looks rust free, but rust can be hiding and lurking in the shadows...then there is "rust free, rust free" where after the car it thoroughly inspected, no rust is found.... -JON 
and how about some more pics?
Hey... I want to thank ALL of you for your input on this car and for sharing your knowledge! On the topic of my description of this being a "virtually rust-free car", here is what I have found (refer to the pics):
The front and rear trunk compartments show a little bit of surface rust (but when I push hard on the rusty spots, the metal does not move).
The "hell hole" looks pretty good to me... there IS surface rust on the battery tray; however, I can find no structural damage (just some surface rust) below the tray. I don't expect a problem here and plan on giving the area a "POR-15" treatment (anybody have a better idea?)
I know it is not that big a deal (at least right now), but the interior looks pretty good to me just as it sits!
I have pulled the carpet and the floor pans look good; as does the floor behind the "pedal board".
I haven't yet but plan to pull the rocker panels and check behind them.
I haven't jacked-up the car yet, but looking underneath, I see no rust holes... unlike my '71 Super Beetle :-(
I believe (HOPE) that once I get this thing running, it will be a GREAT project car! I can't wait to learn more about these cars! SHOULD BE FUN!
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QUOTE(sendjonathanmail @ Jul 27 2007, 08:45 AM)
great find man..."rust free" does in fact have different meanings...there is "rust free at first glance" where it looks rust free, but rust can be hiding and lurking in the shadows...then there is "rust free, rust free" where after the car it thoroughly inspected, no rust is found....
-JON and how about some more pics?Hey... I want to thank ALL of you for your input on this car and for sharing your knowledge! On the topic of my description of this being a "virtually rust-free car", here is what I have found (refer to the pics):
The front and rear trunk compartments show a little bit of surface rust (but when I push hard on the rusty spots, the metal does not move).
The "hell hole" looks pretty good to me... there IS surface rust on the battery tray; however, I can find no structural damage (just some surface rust) below the tray. I don't expect a problem here and plan on giving the area a "POR-15" treatment (anybody have a better idea?)
I know it is not that big a deal (at least right now), but the interior looks pretty good to me just as it sits!
I have pulled the carpet and the floor pans look good; as does the floor behind the "pedal board".
I haven't yet but plan to pull the rocker panels and check behind them.
I haven't jacked-up the car yet, but looking underneath, I see no rust holes... unlike my '71 Super Beetle :-(
I believe (HOPE) that once I get this thing running, it will be a GREAT project car! I can't wait to learn more about these cars! SHOULD BE FUN!
Click to view attachment
great find man..."rust free" does in fact have different meanings...there is "rust free at first glance" where it looks rust free, but rust can be hiding and lurking in the shadows...then there is "rust free, rust free" where after the car it thoroughly inspected, no rust is found.... -JON and how about some more pics?
And here is the interior...
QUOTE(sendjonathanmail @ Jul 27 2007, 08:45 AM)
great find man..."rust free" does in fact have different meanings...there is "rust free at first glance" where it looks rust free, but rust can be hiding and lurking in the shadows...then there is "rust free, rust free" where after the car it thoroughly inspected, no rust is found....
-JON and how about some more pics?And here is the interior...
Click to view attachment
Not to hijack the thread but where do you get hub caps like that?
Buck:
It looks like Auto Atlanta sells a similar hubcap to the ones pictured here. Here is the link... http://www.autoatlanta.net/record_detail.l...A18&-Search
I happen to have another set of "chromies" and Porsche hubcaps in storage (I originally purchased them second-hand for my '71 Bug). They really aren't in that great a condition, though :-(
QUOTE(buck toenges @ Jul 27 2007, 06:10 AM)
Not to hijack the thread but where do you get hub caps like that?
Buck:
It looks like Auto Atlanta sells a similar hubcap to the ones pictured here. Here is the link... http://www.autoatlanta.net/record_detail.l...A18&-Search
I happen to have another set of "chromies" and Porsche hubcaps in storage (I originally purchased them second-hand for my '71 Bug). They really aren't in that great a condition, though :-(
QUOTE(bondo @ Jul 26 2007, 08:37 PM)
Screamin' deal.....
...do you left coast guys ever get tired of these screamin' deals...a 914 worth $400 on the east coast usually looks like the bottom half of the car was deep fried! Then the seller still thinks since it's a "Porsche", they should be gettin' 2 or 3 grand for it.
Good luck with your great find....and
ray, thats not true in the case of my "free" roller 
-JON
-JON
QUOTE(sendjonathanmail @ Jul 27 2007, 05:10 PM)
ray, thats not true in the case of my "free" roller
-JONIs that "free" as in no money down or
" 'free" as shorthand for "rustfree?"
Hey, I'm originally East Coast Long Islander: just bustin' chops by bustin' in on someone elses thread.
Paul
free as in no money at all, and no rust -JON
-JON
Looks like you got yourself a winner!
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