hey,
so my rear brakes are squeeling pretty loud about 50% of the time that i'm braking. i'm thinking i must have let the hand brake on at some point or another. anyway, as far as i know these are original rotors (90k on car). fairly smooth feeling. the pads have a little life left on them... at least it looks that way to my untrained eye.
anyway, i'd rather just order new pads. i'm a pretty mellow driver..but if it's time for new rotors...then it's time
what do you think? (i wanted to measure them but i could not find a ruler in the entire house...hopefully a quarter will be enough for one of you guys, i know it's supposed to be at least 10 mm


moving on...aren't i missing a cover on this linkage?


how are these tranny mounts looking?



finally, any idea what chord got cut out this set coming out of the fire wall in the engine bay?


what does this adjust? it look like there's another adjusting mechanism attached downstream of the fuel pump. i'm sorry i'm still getting my feet wet working on cars

shot of it's location in engine bay...

this would be the coil?

with the switch to the carb, the layout of the engine is a bit different than the manual's so i just want to make sure i'm not calling someting a coil when it's something else?
again, thanks in advance for all the help guys, one day soon with me reading the manuals every free second i get and this board, ill have half an idea what i'm doing...

You're measuring the wrong place on the rotors & they look shot.

You really need a shift linkage cover.

The Bosch Blue coil is a plus.

Not sure about the other stuff, since some of it carb related.
Pat

Rotors... Feel the lip. 1MM? 2MM? One of those things you have to feel for to know if it's time to replace. Take a can of brake cleaner to it with the wheel off, look for little hairline cracks. The solid rotors will get them. See any? If you do, definitely replace.

You are missing the rubber/plastic linkage cover.

Trans mounts... If you can push up on them and they have a LOT of play - chances are the rubber centers are torn out. Buy a pair of 911 rubber engine mounts, replace. You may have to open the mounting holes on them up a little bit.

Chord cut from the firewall? Looks like oem shielding on the harness... Can't tell if something's cut or not.

Adjuster? That little grey cylindrical thing with two posts on it looks like a dual-sender: oil pressure and oil pressure warning light. Many people switch over to that type of sender when they have an oil pressure gauge.

Single carb? UGH! Get rid of it, go dual dellortos or dual webers... 40s would be fine. Get them setup and run with that.

Blue thing - yes, that's your coil.

Welcome aboard!

thanks!
that helped a lot, seriously.
so the lip on the rotors towards the outer circumference shouldn't be more than 1 mm? don't seem to have much of a lip at all right now. ill look closer for the hairline cracks this weekend
i do have an oil pressure gauge...so that makes sense about that part.
thanks for the info...ill take a look this weekend.
anyone want to take a guess on that cut chord? reason being i'm installing the heating system this weekend and i'm wondering if the chord is power for the warm air fan...or does that all come from that relay on the driver's side of the engine bay?

I just measured a quarter and 100 is to the bottom of Georges nose so I would say those are a little thin. On the second pic you are missing a cover. The tranny mounts do not look right, and I think I would be concerned that the tranny may be able to jump out of the slots and hit the ground but I will leave that to a more experienced 914er. The last thing I know is that the blue thing is the coil. Good lucj and keep reading.

As long as it isn't cracked, the thickness of the rotor is what's important. There is a minimum spec. The lip gives you an idea of how much is worn away. If you take the rotors in to a shop to be turned, they'll measure them and won't turn them if they'll be too thin afterwards.

WOW we are up to almost 8000 members! WELCOME TO THE CLUB!
Hard to believe I was # 275.....feels like such a short time ago....I am getting old!

the big round washers on your transmission mounts are upside-down. that's why they don't fit right.

some dumb "mechanic" left the shifter cover off because he was too damm cheap to use the correct setscrew for coupler and most likely the cover didn't fit anymore with that hulk of a bolt you have in there now.

that "thing" on top of your engine doesn't adjust anything, it's a oil pressure sender that has two contacts, one for the oil idiot light and one for a oil-pressure gauge.

yes, that's a bosch blue coil. make sure the little rubber strip your "mechanic" put under the clamp is still tight as the blue coil is a bit too small for the stock clamp and will move around if not clamped down correctly.
judging from the marks on it, it has been sliding around quite a bit at some point in the past.

can't really tell what cut wire was from the pic. what color is it?
Andy

Hi,
Lets see,
Rotors, well, if you are up for replacing them, step up and get it over with.
If you decide to keep them, at least get new pads.
Take a small sander, circular, and rough up both sides of the rotor prior to putting the new pads on.
Clean with Brakleen and put on the new pads.
Adjust the rear brakes to 4mm space between the pad and rotor when at rest, test several times to make sure both sides withdraw correctly.
when you are ready to go for the first drive, run hard and fast, and slam the brakes on many many times.
Heat them up while driving (lean your foot on the pedal) and then once hot, hit them with everything you have to seat the pad to the rotor.

With good pads, proper installation, anti squeal on the back of the pad, and proper seating, the noise will go away.
The squealing is from the pad vibrating against the caliper, not from it hitting the rotor.

The shifter.
You have the wrong set screw there, it should be a small cone screw with an allen head.
You are also missing the large rubber boot that covers the whole shift console there. It may not fit with the bolt there.
You might be able to scrounge up a new piece (the part that attaches to the shifter rod) and replace the one you have to get it all to fit inside the rubber boot.

The tranny mounts.
They are bad, get new ones.
Check your front engine mounts also, one or both could be bad, and that seriously affects shifting.

The extra sensor.
Yes, its an oil temp and pressure sensor.
Typical "upgrade" though not stock.
Please be worried about the vertical pipe that is coming up from the case, think about replacing that with a flexible piece (Jake sells them, or you can use a paintball gun flexible tube, same thread)
That part could get broken, and break the case...not a good thing.

The blue coil, it a blue coil.

Rich

no, it's not ...
no oil-temp anywhere close to that sender.

oil-idiot light and oil-pressure gauge, but *no* oil-temp.



i beg to differ. you can't tell from that pic at all. the big washer type thing is upside down causing the mount to not fit correctly.
in order to see if the mounts are broken, one has to look at the rubber top where the bolt goes through.



Andy

wait...i'm confused...which pic are you pulling this from
thanks for all the advice! seriously, this is helping out so much

he's talking about the copper pipe that the oil-pressure sender is mounted to.
neither of them is stock and the pipe puts stress on the threads in the engine case.

there's a flexible rubber hose with the same size fittings available to be used with the sender ...
Andy

okay, sounds fair, is that going to send oil everywhere when i remove it or with the engine off does gravity keep it from leaking out? this seriously reminds me of "zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance"...every answer just results in 5 more questions...

He's full of'em tonight... .004" (4mm would be quite a gap)

Also, you did mention:



It could very well be your pad backing plates that are squealing. Metal on metal can make that sound.

I'd be willing to guess that the "chord that was cut was for the F.I. relay board. Yours maybe gone completely. It would be where the battery is only on the driver side in the engine compartment there. probably got taken out when it was converted to your carb. I agree with andy on the tranny mounts. check them before you replace them. You just need to flip that cup washer thing over. GOOD luck!