Looking to get a pair for my front swaybar. I've found a few complete sealed bearings available through bicycle shops, but I thought a member here made them or had them made...

Basically to use a complete sealed bearing I'd have to make a triangle-shaped housing for them to be in, then bolt that to the body in the swaybar location.

It's that, or take a pair of swaybar bushing brackets, drill and braze zerg fittings into them and slot/groove/drill some bushings... Looking for the cheaper alternative of course.

Bearings would be almost zero friction but zero impact absorption.
Poly-graphite bushings would be medium friction and medium impact absorption.

I've been looking for a way to maybe take a bearing and make a 1 to 2mm thick 'sleeve' that would ride inside a larger ID bearing, over the bar. Maybe work to absorb some impact and have minimal friction - similar to Elephant Racing's poly-bronze bushings...

Hmmmm...

What greater performance do you expect to get with using bearings as opposed to bushings on a street car?

Clayton

No taking things apart every 6 months to lube everything

In that case... OK....

Do you know why most drop links break?

Clayton

I'm pretty sure the bearing that are used on the Smart Racing bars are nyliner bearings...good stuff


I had a bar (manufacture unknown) that was similar to the one you describe but the bearings were able to pivot a few degrees as well which would ensure no binding if the axis of the bearings were not aligned perfectly////

I'm curious... why do most droplinks break? or am I missing the point?

On my previous Nissan pickup I installed a set of big ADDCO sway bars with poly bushings. They really helped the handling, but the poly bushings also squeaked and groaned. I read about a fix in a magazine and tried it. I removed the bars and the split poly bushings, wrapped the bars with teflon plumbers tape where they rode in the bushings, replaced the slit bushings and brackets, bolted it all back together, and the squeaking was gone, for years.

What diameter are your sways?
Mark D.

Here is one way to do it.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=60071#
http://www.mcmaster.com/ page 1096
flange mounted bearing;

Shaft Dia. Cap., lbs. rpm Lg. (B ) Ht. © Wd. (D) Ctr. (E) Size (F) (G) Each

Steel
1/2" 2110 5500 3 3/16" 0.866" 2 5/16" 2 1/2" 0.28" 0.150" 5913K51 $11.33

5/8" 2110 5500 3 3/16" 0.866" 2 5/16" 2 1/2" 0.28" 0.150" 5913K52 11.33

3/4" 2830 5500 3 9/16" 0.984" 2 5/8" 2 13/16" 0.34" 0.166" 5913K53 11.90

1" 3100 5500 3 3/4" 1.063" 2 25/32" 3" 0.34" 0.166" 5913K54 12.77

1 3/16" 4300 4500 4 7/16" 1.181" 3 5/16" 3 9/16" 0.405" 0.208" 5913K55 16.13

Stainless Steel
5/8" 2830 3800 3 3/16" 1.13" 2 5/16" 2 1/2" 0.28" 0.15" 2431K61 56.60

3/4" 2830 3800 3 9/16" 1.22" 2 5/8" 2 13/16" 0.34" 0.166" 2431K62 57.48

1" 3100 3000 3 3/4" 1.33" 2 51/64" 3" 0.34" 0.166" 2431K63 63.63

Sway bar bind.

Clayton

New to the terminology. Does that mean the sway sticks in the bushing? Or does it mean that it bends at a funky angle?
Mark D.