I have an original 2.0 liter six. I bought a 3.0 liter with webers and am going to do the swap. I have researched this forum and what to confirm/clarify if I am getting things right.
From what I understand I need to do the following:

1) Get a flywheel/clutch setup from Kennedy. Can I use the 3.0 liter flywheel with an adapter? It is a 9 bolt flywheel. Is there a reason to use the flywheel from Kennedy, over the adapter ring gear? I have read that the Kennedy flywheel is welded up and re-drilled, not sure if I want to go that way.

2) Modify the 3.0 liter oil cooler with a 90 degree to clear the trailing arm. Is the 3.0 liter cooler different than my cooler from the stock 2.0? Do I need the engine cooler even if I want to add a front mounted cooler? Will I need a front mounted cooler?

3) Do I need to modify the throttle linkage on the 3.0 liter? It came out of a 911. I would think I need some of my linkage parts from the original six, but not sure.

I plan to upgrade the fuel lines in the tunnel with the stainless setup from one of the guys on the board.
Is there anything else I should do while I have things apart?

Thanks for you help.

I have an original 2.0 liter six. I bought a 3.0 liter with webers and am going to do the swap. I have researched this forum and what to confirm/clarify if I am getting things right.
From what I understand I need to do the following:

1) Get a flywheel/clutch setup from Kennedy. Can I use the 3.0 liter flywheel with an adapter? It is a 9 bolt flywheel. Is there a reason to use the flywheel from Kennedy, over the adapter ring gear? I have read that the Kennedy flywheel is welded up and re-drilled, not sure if I want to go that way.

> I would order what ever set-up Kennedy recommends keeping in mind that you'll want to use your stock clutch linkage. I've found the Stage I clutch & a stock disc to be sufficient for the kind of power you'll be making. I've never heard of a Kennedy-welded flywheel being a problem.

2) Modify the 3.0 liter oil cooler with a 90 degree to clear the trailing arm. Is the 3.0 liter cooler different than my cooler from the stock 2.0? Do I need the engine cooler even if I want to add a front mounted cooler? Will I need a front mounted cooler?

> Use your stock 914/6 oil cooler and oil lines.....feed & scavenge.

3) Do I need to modify the throttle linkage on the 3.0 liter? It came out of a 911. I would think I need some of my linkage parts from the original six, but not sure.

> the stock six stuff is a bolt-up.

I plan to upgrade the fuel lines in the tunnel with the stainless setup from one of the guys on the board.
Is there anything else I should do while I have things apart?

> Get bigger rear tiars.

Make sure the cams are appropriate for carbs. There's a LOT of people out there who don't do that .................. The Cap'n

I use the stock flywheel with the ring gear adapter and Centerforce clutch. Either way. Both work.

I would modify the 3.0 oil cooler because the ID of the supply pipe is larger on the later coolers. The 3.0 oil pump has a substantially larger capacity than the 2.0 pump.

Not to hijack but I'm doing the same conversion. I have the stock flywheel and have purchased the adapter ring gear. What Centerforce clutch are you running? Specifically is it a 914 or 911 part number? And by chance do you have the part number? And what pressure plate? Thanks

It's just a 901 clutch. The 911 and 914s use the same part.

Thank you.

Thanks Guys,
I think I will get the cooler converted, that way the swap will go a little quicker. don't need to take apart the 2.0 to get the cooler.
Still a little uncertain about the clutch/flywheel setup. I guess there is not real advantage to either way.
I am not sure about the cams. I think they are stock. Will that be a problem with the carbs. I am not expecting to get max power out of the package. From what I understand I would need new pistons if I went with a bigger cam, would be nice.
I already have big tires.

Chris I have a 1983 911 with stock 3.0 and 46mm PMO carbs and it runs fine. In the future if I have to pull the motor for any reason then I would do cams and pistons. The stock cams and pistons are not ideal but will work. I am going to do the same thing for the 3.0 I'm putting in the 914, just slappin on some 40 Webers and run it until more cash is available. You will however have to have the ignition distributor recurved for the carbs.

I believe the fitting on the scavenge line is too small. I believe an adapter is available from various places (elephant?)

What is the typical cost of doing pistons/cams?I'm guessing 10:1 for the street ?What lift/duration are the hot rod cams?My supposedly rebuilt 3.2 just failed its leakdown so i'm going to take a lok into thr engine sometime soon

I've been looking into this ....again...lately.

The least expensive way to go I have found is:
Send your cylinders to EBS for a strip & Nikasil replate....150 bucks a pop.
JE pistons for about 900. 100 buck core charge (per cyl) if you don't provide cores. *You cannot run any piston other than stock ones on Alusil cylinders*
I found some NOS Mahle 10.4: P/Cs (90 mm) for 2800 and am very happy.
Thems race gas territory tho......I can live with that.
New P/Cs prices will stop your heart when purchased from a Pcar vendor.

Cams....do you feel lucky? Pick a standard grind and find some used ones.
Otherwise, talk to "camgrinder" over on the Pelican engine rebuild forum.
That's a much better place to talk about this stuff than here. There are real live experts there.

BTW. The oil pumps on 76 2.7L thru the 89 (?)3.2L are identicle. They made the pressure side larger & the scavenge side smaller in 76. My eyeball shows 15-20 %
difference.

I run a 12AN line for scavenge with an adaptor to the standard fitting and what passes for the stock 914/6 rubber line on the feed side....that is to say it fits the 76 feed below the cooler and the 914/6 jobbie. The scavenge side goes thru a thermostat then to the front aux cooler (or bypasses the cooler).
After flogging on the homebuilt engine for 7 years I am tearing it down due to leakdown.....scored clys....not oil related but assembly related. Oil related.....wear shows in several places due to not getting the oil up to temp prior to zinging it to redline.....need a new plan to take care of that.

Just got my clutch kit.
KEP stage II pressure plate
ring gear adapter
clutch disc
throw out bearing

Need to do the oil cooler mods.

Anything else??

Oh, i probably should get a new pilot bearing.
Should I re- surface the flywheel even if there is no scoring?

why not just take the 914-6 oil cooler of the old engine and put it on the new?