2-OH! is stripped down, sanded, rust cleaned up (well almost), ready for some weld repair and paint...

I am going to put POR15 on several rust-o-ration spots that have been ground down to just acne...

Most threads here, and the can itself, say to use "Metal Ready" first, on bare metal then use the POR 15...

My problem is that they say to rinse with water after the "Metal Ready"...I don't want to introduce water to my bare metal, especially in hard to reach places i.e... inside the longs...

Am I reading the instructions wrong or is that the way to do it...Any other ideas...How do you coat your rust areas after grinding, welding and New "Restoration Design" pieces installed...

2-OH!

You shoot the metal ready "everywhere".. so cover any bare area's with it. Then rinse. Tape off the tops of the heater ducts if that is what you are worried about.

You'll be fine. Promise.

B

the rinse with water is for areas where you want to apply paint later.
it washes away the "excess" metal-ready.
you can use water if you sprayed all bare metal with metal ready.
the water won't penetrate the MR coat.

in hard to reach areas like inside the longs, just leave it on,
won't do any harm there, i suppose you don't plan on painting the inside
of your longs anyways

and when i say "paint" i don't mean POR-15, i'm talking real paint.

if you put POR-15 on a coat of metal-ready that was not "washed",
it will come off in big chuncks later. won't stick. same with primer for paint.

Andy

don't forget that POR-15 is a cyanoacrilyate. (kinda like Krazy Glue with pigment.) part of the curing process involves water vapor - there has to be some or it won't cure. (too much and it will cure too fast, which is also bad ...) but -some- is not all bad.

this is described in great detail in the POR-15 instructions ...

Don't touch the metal (with your skin) but put as much water as you'd like on it... err... need.

M