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McMark
All you powdercoaters... a warning.

Powdercoating is THICK. If you're sending a pile of parts out for some nice coating or getting a nice set of wheels refinished, you need to be careful of the various areas that have tight tolerances. For example, a lot of factory wheels (especially late model 911 wheels) have a hubcentric ring that centers the wheel. If this area get powdercoated it will not fit on hubcentric hubs. Seen it happen.

Anyway, avoid a hassle, identify areas to not be powdercoated before handing your stuff over. Coating shops won't know what's what.

Can you tell I ran into this issue today.... biggrin.gif
Rusty
How much have you had to grind off? ohmy.gif
SirAndy
QUOTE(McMark @ Dec 8 2007, 09:57 PM) *

All you powdercoaters... a warning.

Powdercoating is THICK. If you're sending a pile of parts out for some nice coating or getting a nice set of wheels refinished, you need to be careful of the various areas that have tight tolerances. For example, a lot of factory wheels (especially late model 911 wheels) have a hubcentric ring that centers the wheel. If this area get powdercoated it will not fit on hubcentric hubs. Seen it happen.


speaking of, i need the hinges for the targa top (in the back) powdercoated. any advice on how to prep them ???

idea.gif Andy
McMark
Disassemble and bead blast. Just like everything else. There is a cir-clip that holds the 'hook' on. I'm not so sure about the handle part. That's a good time to weld and redrill the pivot hole as well. Most times they are ovallized.
neo914-6
QUOTE(McMark @ Dec 8 2007, 11:47 PM) *

Disassemble and bead blast. Just like everything else. There is a cir-clip that holds the 'hook' on. I'm not so sure about the handle part. That's a good time to weld and redrill the pivot hole as well. Most times they are ovallized.


I've pc'd mine and am still trying to find a double spring and strong circlip. OSH parts did not last and neither did the ones on the sets that I purchased "restored". The coating may be masked at the pivot hook depending on it's position. I don't see an easy way of removing and reinstalling this part.

I'm not a big fan of pcing after dealing with all the tolerances and threaded issues. Plus I found it's not as chip or scratch proof as I expected...
McMark
I agree with you Felix. Just like all the other 'magic fixes', it has its place, but it is definitely not a cure all, and it is definitely not armor. It's stronger than paint, but it's not invincible either. wink.gif
Carrera916
Perhaps if you look at parts that has tight tolerance when assemble, paint them. Other stuff like engine tins and not critical tolerance issue parts, powder coat them.

I'm not quite a fan of pc as there were times it need to be stripped, boy, there are hard to strip!

another possibility is to use the ....(damn, forgot the name...) ...a chemical dip know as "black out"...oh, yes...black oxide dipping....they're really good for certain parts that paint or pc isn't an option...as long you oiled it after dipping it...it'll last...

j
pbanders
FYI, if you're going wild powdercoating everything during an engine rebuild, be aware that if you powdercoat the alternator bracket, you'll need to remove the coating where it touches the engine case and where it contacts the alternator, or you won't have an alternator ground. Ask me how I know...
Engman
As one who designs stuff that is powercaoted - power coating runs typically anywhere from .003 to .006" depending on the coater. I have seen coating up to .008".

Thre is also the farady effect where in inside corners it thins way out, sometimes not providing coverage.

M
Brian Mifsud
I've had parts for my 'Guzzi coated where it was over 1/16" thick. Use someone who is accustomed to doing automotive parts. Some shops specialize in cabinets and other "production run" type of painting, so the guy applying the paint may not have a good feel for special geometry.

getting it off is a good/bad thing. the stuff is so freaking tenacious, that treatments of Jasco (carefully taped off) had to be repeated several times whilst removing the softened layer with a razor blade.

I don't feel brave enough to use a grinder in tight spots and would screw up the otherwise great finish.
Matt Meyer
I haven't tried it yet but I have heard that permetex gasket remover is what to use to remove most powder coatings. I heard alot of shops use it for cleaning up (hooks, racks, etc.)


Pat Garvey
OK, I'm dipping my toe here.

WHY would you powdercoat? You've already stripped & prepped the parts. So, why wouldn;t you put an original finish on them? Face it, powdercoated parts are immediately recognized as such. So, why do it?
ConeDodger
QUOTE(Pat Garvey @ Dec 10 2007, 05:59 PM) *

OK, I'm dipping my toe here.

WHY would you powdercoat? You've already stripped & prepped the parts. So, why wouldn;t you put an original finish on them? Face it, powdercoated parts are immediately recognized as such. So, why do it?


Because I want to powdercoat. It isn't illegal. My car is never going to be a parts car for you so you don't need to worry about what I or anyone else does.
Does that make it clearer for you?

pray.gif I don't criticize what you do. But, I don't do it. I think it is great that you do. I enjoy going to the CW events. Please let me do what I want.
Rusty
Rob, I think he just was asking about the benefits.

My experience is that powdercoating is more durable than paint. There are a nice range of colors and textures. I can make it look it the way I want to. smile.gif
scotty b
QUOTE(Pat Garvey @ Dec 10 2007, 05:59 PM) *

OK, I'm dipping my toe here.

WHY would you powdercoat? You've already stripped & prepped the parts. So, why wouldn;t you put an original finish on them? Face it, powdercoated parts are immediately recognized as such. So, why do it?


I'd bet I could put a powder coated piece of tin right beside a painted piece and you couldn't tell me which was which just by looking at them Pat. Not trying to start anything here but I have been doing high quality restoration for a living for several years and essentially ran a powder coating shop last year and can promise you it isn't that easy to tell visually. That is assuming the powder coat is done properly. I personaly see no reason at all to paint anything under a car anymore. I am currently werking on an Alfa Giulia Sprint Speciale for a customer who wanted ALL of the suspension completely stripped and re-painted. For the amount of time I have tied up in etching, sealing and painting the parts I could have powder coated them in 1/2 to 3/4 the time and had a finish that looked completely factory, would have filled in some of the minor rust pitting and would hold up MUCH longer.
ConeDodger
QUOTE(Rusty @ Dec 10 2007, 06:10 PM) *

Rob, I think he just was asking about the benefits.

My experience is that powdercoating is more durable than paint. There are a nice range of colors and textures. I can make it look it the way I want to. smile.gif


Nope Rusty, Pat regularly rails against powdercoating. His last rant was over fan housings. Someone said the fan housing was used as a ground for the alternator and that powdercoating can cause an electrical problem. Pat said it was just another reason for original. Pat knows the benefits. He is just laying down CW carpet bombs...
ConeDodger
QUOTE(scotty b @ Dec 10 2007, 06:12 PM) *

QUOTE(Pat Garvey @ Dec 10 2007, 05:59 PM) *

OK, I'm dipping my toe here.

WHY would you powdercoat? You've already stripped & prepped the parts. So, why wouldn;t you put an original finish on them? Face it, powdercoated parts are immediately recognized as such. So, why do it?


I'd bet I could put a powder coated piece of tin right beside a painted piece and you couldn't tell me which was which just by looking at them Pat. Not trying to start anything here but I have been doing high quality restoration for a living for several years and essentially ran a powder coating shop last year and can promise you it isn't that easy to tell visually. That is assuming the powder coat is done properly. I personaly see no reason at all to paint anything under a car anymore. I am currently werking on an Alfa Giulia Sprint Speciale for a customer who wanted ALL of the suspension completely stripped and re-painted. For the amount of time I have tied up in etching, sealing and painting the parts I could have powder coated them in 1/2 to 3/4 the time and had a finish that looked completely factory, would have filled in some of the minor rust pitting and would hold up MUCH longer.


agree.gif My tin is powdercoated and I have two more sets of powdercoated 2.0 tin in the garage next to my original 2.0 tin that I just took off. No difference in appearance, more durable, etc....
Pat Garvey
QUOTE(ConeDodger @ Dec 10 2007, 09:18 PM) *

QUOTE(Rusty @ Dec 10 2007, 06:10 PM) *

Rob, I think he just was asking about the benefits.

My experience is that powdercoating is more durable than paint. There are a nice range of colors and textures. I can make it look it the way I want to. smile.gif


Nope Rusty, Pat regularly rails against powdercoating. His last rant was over fan housings. Someone said the fan housing was used as a ground for the alternator and that powdercoating can cause an electrical problem. Pat said it was just another reason for original. Pat knows the benefits. He is just laying down CW carpet bombs...

Actually, I'm not "just laying down CW carpet bombs..."

I can spot a powdercoated piece immediately. Maybe I haven't seen the "finer" pieces, but it doesn't matter. The Factory didn't powdercoat these pieces. It is NOT the original finish. And.....it's unnecessary. if you've gone to the work of stripping & refinishing the pieces, why not keep it "painted" - not "coated"?

Look, we have a very limited supply of original or restored-to-original 914's out there. Why wouldn't you want to protect or increase your investment? Non-original finishes on parts are as signifiacnt as as "dash tops" or current stereo systems , or deep sump sytems, or non-factory paint schemes. The Factory didn't deliver them that way.

Yeppir, make your914 what you want, just bear in mind that it will NOT be collectible if you modify it with improper finishes. When you want to sell it, with these changes, it will not bring top dollar. A 914 is an investment - yeah, you don't think you'll ever sell yours - WRONG! When you want to sell it, as a collectable, you'll get ripped for unoriginal finishes. I could go on, but........

Oh, by the way - fan housings wer NEVER painted!
Pat
Rusty
QUOTE(Pat Garvey @ Dec 10 2007, 08:53 PM) *

Why wouldn't you want to protect or increase your investment?


Kind Sir,

My car is not an investment. It's something I drive and enjoy. Part of that enjoyment is working on it.

It will never be concours. As the prices of "perfect" parts began to skyrocket, I resigned myself to enjoying the car as it is... and as I make it.

I respect the hell out of people that can and do put the effort and expense into maintaining perfect cars, especially if they drive them, like you do!

Sadly, that's not me. I have neither the time nor the deep pockets to keep things perfect. I can't live fretting over a paint chip or if I'll be able to find the perfect Marelli cap for my distributor or if the screw I replaced under the dash has the correct plating. My paintwork or hand-stitched visors might not be perfect, but they're my work and I'm proud of them. I just like to have a car I can drive. smile.gif

Oh, and I like to powdercoat. It's cool. smile.gif

-Rusty
ConeDodger
QUOTE
Actually, I'm not "just laying down CW carpet bombs..."

I can spot a powdercoated piece immediately. Maybe I haven't seen the "finer" pieces, but it doesn't matter. The Factory didn't powdercoat these pieces. It is NOT the original finish. And.....it's unnecessary. if you've gone to the work of stripping & refinishing the pieces, why not keep it "painted" - not "coated"?

Look, we have a very limited supply of original or restored-to-original 914's out there. Why wouldn't you want to protect or increase your investment? Non-original finishes on parts are as signifiacnt as as "dash tops" or current stereo systems , or deep sump sytems, or non-factory paint schemes. The Factory didn't deliver them that way.

Yeppir, make your914 what you want, just bear in mind that it will NOT be collectible if you modify it with improper finishes. When you want to sell it, with these changes, it will not bring top dollar. A 914 is an investment - yeah, you don't think you'll ever sell yours - WRONG! When you want to sell it, as a collectable, you'll get ripped for unoriginal finishes. I could go on, but........

Oh, by the way - fan housings wer NEVER painted!
Pat


Pat,

If I want to do it, then it is necessary. It is more durable. That is not myth. If someone wants to put a Subie motor in, or a 6 conversion they should... It is their car. It is what they want out of their car. Last I checked, this wasn't the Peoples Republic of Pat so please take that CW stuff out of the Garage and put it two doors down in Originality and whatever... I don't see why anyone who isn't a CW should be concerned about the dwindling supply of anything. It isn't our problem. I for one don't care.

I have no problem with my 914 not being "collectable". I also don't think I would have a problem selling it. As far as the 914 being an investment, I do pretty ok financially and I can tell you that my 914 is not considered an investment. It is a car. As such, it gets driven. If I lose money on it when I sell it so be it... It is my money to lose. But by gosh the car will be what I want while I own it.

I know fan housings were never painted. I never said they were... I admire what you know about these cars. It is great. But you need to find some restraint. My car is not your car. My car is pretty fuchin nice. I get no complaints about my car. I don't come to your party saying CW are weird why do you try to spoil mine? Do you go to autocrosses and say "oh my gosh, your bushings aren't original!" blink.gif

Please! Leave people be...
toon1
QUOTE(Pat Garvey @ Dec 10 2007, 06:53 PM) *

QUOTE(ConeDodger @ Dec 10 2007, 09:18 PM) *

QUOTE(Rusty @ Dec 10 2007, 06:10 PM) *

Rob, I think he just was asking about the benefits.

My experience is that powdercoating is more durable than paint. There are a nice range of colors and textures. I can make it look it the way I want to. smile.gif


Nope Rusty, Pat regularly rails against powdercoating. His last rant was over fan housings. Someone said the fan housing was used as a ground for the alternator and that powdercoating can cause an electrical problem. Pat said it was just another reason for original. Pat knows the benefits. He is just laying down CW carpet bombs...

Actually, I'm not "just laying down CW carpet bombs..."

I can spot a powdercoated piece immediately. Maybe I haven't seen the "finer" pieces, but it doesn't matter. The Factory didn't powdercoat these pieces. It is NOT the original finish. And.....it's unnecessary. if you've gone to the work of stripping & refinishing the pieces, why not keep it "painted" - not "coated"?

Look, we have a very limited supply of original or restored-to-original 914's out there. Why wouldn't you want to protect or increase your investment? Non-original finishes on parts are as signifiacnt as as "dash tops" or current stereo systems , or deep sump sytems, or non-factory paint schemes. The Factory didn't deliver them that way.

Yeppir, make your914 what you want, just bear in mind that it will NOT be collectible if you modify it with improper finishes. When you want to sell it, with these changes, it will not bring top dollar. A 914 is an investment - yeah, you don't think you'll ever sell yours - WRONG! When you want to sell it, as a collectable, you'll get ripped for unoriginal finishes. I could go on, but........

Oh, by the way - fan housings wer NEVER painted!
Pat


If this is not a CW " carpet bomb" then I'm not sure what is.LOL


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