I finally got my car moved around in the back so that I can get it up onto jack stands and take a look around.

My short term goal is to get the oil changed, swap the gas tank, charge the battery and try and fire her up. I took a few steps towards that today.

First, I was under there cleaning stuff up. I noticed this on the passenger side of the trans.

Click to view attachment

I assume that it is the throttle cable, but being this is my first /6, I need to confirm.

Secondly, I drained the oil from the case and the tank. For those that don't recall, here is my 911 tank, cut into the floor.

Click to view attachment

Problem is that when I drained the case and the tank, I only got 1/2 gallon of oil. I was expecting about 3.5 gallons (14 qts +/-). Not even close. This is my first dry sump motor, so am I missing something?

Here is a picture of the engine mount bar.

Click to view attachment

I don't know if this is stock, custom, aftermarket or ??? A little help pls. The mount bar sits so low that the side shift trans rod is above it.

Lastly, when I got the car, the PO said that he had buggered up the trans. Its a side shifter. I cleaned it up a little and took off the shift rod head and the ball socket. It's a new socket bushing which is nice.

I was able to move the selector through all gears. I noticed that the shift rod head was about an inch longer than the one on my car. In fact, it looked as if it was extended somehow. It's odd. I noticed this because I had to put the bushing on the ball and snap it down, before inserting it into the shift rod head. If I didn't do that, the shift rod head was so deep that I couldn't push it on. I am hoping that I get lucky with this.

Also, the cone set screw was replaced with a longer set screw, with a square head, that is drilled so it can be wired for additional safety.

Anyway, more to come soon. I have my work cut out for me.

Yes, that's your throttle linkage. I think you could fit that tank where the 914-6 tank belongs. You may have to do a little fab work but it would give you back your trunk ....

So does anyone have any clue as to why I only got 1/2 gallon of oil out of the motor? Am I doing something wrong here? Please let me know.

Thanks!

From the looks of the motor it has leaked a couple.
Just because it should have had , doesnt mean it did.

no worries ,add some oil and gas , fire it up , check the level.

Do I check the level with the motor running? How do I know how much oil to put in? Do I assume it's empty now? Do I just add the oil to the tank? I didn't see a filler on the case.

Sorry for the noob talk, but let's face it. I am a noob with 6ers.

TIA.

Yes, put in about 9qts, start and check, Yes and Yes

Thanks Jeff

Oh, and what weight oel should I use?

That is a personal preferance. I am sure you will get many opinions here but I run 20w-50w. If you are still trying to get it started, for the first time in a while, I would go cheep and see how it runs before dumping $100 worth of oil in.

I picked up a clean gas tank from Bruce out in Riverside yesterday. Thanks Bruce!

Wife hasn't been feeling well, so I only got about an hour or two with the car today. I put the front up on ramps and started taking off the overflow tank and the sender, to see how much gas was in the tank and drain it. I got those buggers off, shine a light in there and...... there's no friggen gas in the tank!!!! I smell varnish, but there is no gas in there. I pop the hoses off from underneath, and pull the tank. It's rusty for sure, but empty.

I look at the lines, and there is gas in the main line, I can see it, and it stinks.

Also, the hose to the main line was shot. I think that's where all the old gas went, but I can't be sure.

So, I fit the sender and the overflow to the new tank. I can pop it in at any time.

I have a few questions:

1) What size hose do I need to get for the main and the return? I assume my FLAPS will have standard, non-metric sizes, so let me know what I need in inches pls. I know it needs to be FI hose.

2) Is there a good way to get that old gas out of the line? I assume that there will be some bad gas when I try and fire it up, but I'd like to minimize it if at all possible.

3) Are there any additives that I should add to the gas for this first start attempt? Any suggestions appreciated.

So, assuming I can get the line from flaps, i might go for a Christmas Day fire up

Two more observations:

1) There are two bolts that bolt the steering rack to the body. The extend back from the rack a good 10-12 inches and bolt up. Both of the bolts that go into the body there are missing. So I got that going for me.

2) The car is a 76. All '76s were 2 liters AFAIK. This car does not have sway bars.

Lastly, what's the best way to take off the 75-76 bumpers. I know you need to cut down a lip to get back-date, but how do you get those monsters off!?!?!?

TIA

Merry Christmas!

Oh, one other thing. The gas sender is enclosed in a tube. I thought that the ones that I had seen had the float exposed. Is this different?

3/8th and 5/16 on the hose.

The sender is a sealed tube.

Look under the bumpers. There are holes there. You can just get in there with a socket and extension and un-bolt them. I don't remember the size. The bolts "should" just fall out after you loosen them then just pull the bumper forward at each end and it'll come off. Thay are kinda heavy so watch yer feet...

Kapt
I have a 2.0l six with the quick six engine bar similar to what you have. As for the oil did you remove the drain plug on the bottom of the motor?. When I installed my six into my 75 I removed the plastic fuel lines and replaced them with large diameter break lines. I have carbs but I installed 2 just in case I change to a fuel injected motor at a later time. This way I wont need to totally remove the gas tank.
For the oil put in about 9 qts to start. When the engine gets warm adjust the oil level. Try not to start the car with that old gas you may plug up your jets. Drain the gas from the lowest point of the fuel line which is at the fire wall and if you can hand crank the engine once the oil is in. May be it will help to get the old fuel out. You may need to pull the spark plugs.
Also I have some things I promised you when we were at Joe's.
PM me with your number and we can talk
Mark

Thanks Allan & Mark.

I'll be stopping at flaps manana!

PM'd you Mark.

Do you have a oil line that runs from the trunk mounted tank to the block?

Thats the line you need to remove (one end) and make sure you have drained all of the oil out of that line.

Question. Where did you drain the oil from to get 1.5 quarts of oil...??????


Clayton

I drained from the bottom of the case and the bottom of the oil tank.

There are three lines from the tank to the motor. Two up top, one below. The one at the bottom "seems" to go to the case. I haven't gotten a great look down there, but it might be an oil cooler. I recall seeing behr on it.

Where is this "Flaps" of which you speak?

Friendly Local Auto Parts Store (FLAPS) you noob! In my case, it's Pep Boys which sucks. There is a Kragen not too far that is better, but it's further away.

Just givin you xmas sheet.

Hope you have enough time off to tinker with your rides Mr. /6

Crack (Loosen) all your oil lines that go from the tank to the block and see if any more oil comes out....... I bet you find more.

Clayton

1.) Line one goes from the bottom of the tank to the oil cooler ... drain oil from this line (on a /6 with a stock tank this is a two piece line)

2.) Line two goes from the block back to the oil tank (scavenge line). This oil is sent thru the filter prior to dumping into oil tank.

3.) Line three would be your crankcase breather ... from top of case to top of oil tank.

No mas.

for what it's worth, a mechanic advised my bro to not fill his dry sump car to full with oil, because it took so long to heat the oil to boil out the condensate. In his car, it took a couple of hours of hwy speed to get the oil temp off zero.

Maybe a portion of that mentality is working here.

Hey Joe,
First off, I'm happy to see you taking on this project as it was such a great deal.

As for a couple of your questions: You should have the same bolts on the yellow car, so take one off of there so you know what needs to be replace and the front & back bumpers have two bolts on each that secure theme to the shocks and you can get to them via the two access holes at the bottom of each bumper.

Good Luck,
Bill

Update

It's not seized!!!




I cleared the gas lines, put in the new tank, replaced a hose to the oil tank, put gas in the tank, oil in the tank hooked up a battery and let er rip!! She cranks!! Woohoo!!

However, The battery I used didn't have a lot of juice, so we hooked up the charger and Mark didn't know I was going to crank it and I blew that out. Then I used my jumper box and that drained before we realized that the gas tank was sitting at an angle (we put a block of wood in there to hold it up while I was tightening the lines underneath and forgot it). Since there is not a lot of gas in the tank, that tilt kept the gas from the lines.

Charging batteries and jumper boxes tonight. Tomorrow we dine in, um... well... you get my drift

Who the Fuch is this Mark character you mention, and what the Fuch does he know about 914's anyway?

I hear he smashed one of your daughters' fingers in the gate to your back yard. Did you shoot the useless bastard?

Not only that, then the sumbiatch stoled my brown formuling france wheel, hornpad and 914 hub!!

So I went out there again today to try and start her up. A few issues:

1) The ignition switch sticks and the starter stays engaged. I tried to pull the column, but its different that the one on my 73. It had the 4 bolts that old the switches in, but then it's hard wired, where the 73 had those pins. I am doing this from memory, but I don't recall this config. So rather than break something, I stopped. Any help here is appreciated.

2) The motor is not starting. I hooked up my timing light, and its blinking when I am cranking it, so I believe I am getting spark. Which leaves me with fuel. Given the high level of varnish in the system, I am not too surprised. I plan to pull the fuel pump and clean it. Not sure it even works. Anyone have some simple tests for me to try?

3) I want to ID the motor. It says on the fan shroud, near the emissions info, 911S, but not sure that makes a lot of difference at this point. Can anyone point me to where I should look for the motor info?

TIA

Have at it ... Pick your poison

... doing a little reading up myself

Get off your ass and get it running ! LOL













With all due respect....and encouragement that is

How's the teener running Aaron?

Yeah, and this rain is gonna help motivate me too

Good to see you brutha. Stop by again soon, ya hear?

No one will know until his girlfriend dumps him....
















Love ya dude, but miss ya on the board...

I drove it today......(around the block)

I need to swap venturis on it still. I need to ask mr grimstead to order em for me

been riding non stop.... (bike...not the chick LOL)

so im here... just not as often

back to school onmonday... yay.

-argh! thread be hijacked!

This thing running yet?

Depending on the weather, I plan to pull the fuel pump and clean it up some today to see if that helps.

The motor spins, and I believe I am getting spark (timing light blinks), so fuel is next.

Also, I have an issue with the ignition switch leaving the starter engaged. I was able to pull out the key and the car was still cranking. So I need to clean that up too. Car has been sitting a while. Not too surprising it has issues

A little progress so far today.

1) It's not the ignition switch that is getting stuck, it's the starter. So I need to look at that.

2) The fuel pump does work, but I don't think it's getting juice. I need to check the wiring - ugh...I hate electrical problems.

Ok, so I got the fuel pump back in, and it's spinning. I had to take the back of the car off of the jack stands (front is on ramps) to get gas to flow back to the pump. I don't think that the pump is pushing the gas. I think I am going to run to the store and get a few feet of FI hose and run it into my gas can and see what happens.

Was it another holiday today...?

Yes, in fact it was.

So today, I got some FI fuel line, and rigged it up to an external tank connecting to the fuel pump. I think the way the lines were run before, the current pump location is bad for drawing fuel. So I turn the key and we get fuel flowing downstream from the pump into this guy:

Click to view attachment

I dunno what that is, so some help is appreciated. I assume its some sort of pressure regulator. From this thing we move downstream via AN type connector to this guy:

Click to view attachment

Looks to be a fuel filter. And it has holes in it from sitting so long and gas starts to run from it onto the engine bay.

So my questions are:

1) What is the gizmo in the first pic? I worry its full of rust. Can I skip it and go straight to a fuel filter?
2) Can I use a 914 style (square) fuel filter for now just to test? Will it handle the pressure?

TIA and damn I'm getting closer......

Checked PP. The first thing is a fuel accumulator and PP sells them for $137!!! YIKES!

Um.... anyone have a spare?

I put a new fuel filter on it today, and I "think" the fuel system is now solid.

I attempted to start the motor. I got the "whistle" as the CIS primed. It coughed a few times but did not start

I stopped because I saw fuel coming out of the exhaust, so I hope I haven't buggered it up too badly. I am worried that this is a really bad sign.

Anyway, I am sort of out of ideas at this point. Anyone have any suggestions?

try pull the intake boot off the cis fuel distributor. Make sure the air plate lever thingie is not stuck. Make it can move freely. The gas out of the exhaust is probably due to the plate being stuck engaged due to bad fuel. If you do free it, pull the plugs and turn it over a few cranks, there is going to be a lot of fuel in the engine. Dry out the plugs and try again. CIS can be a fussy beast.

good luck

John Daron

I was following Slits' CIS issues.

IIRC - he said to pull the fuel dizzy and clean it up. I "think" I have done that. Here's a pic:

Click to view attachment

That brass guy there in the middle doesn't seem to move at all. Is that what needs to move up and down? I think it's stuck up, which would mean WOT.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks!

Joe, the center piston is what HAS TO BE FREE. It is the metering piston for the CIS. If stuck in the up position (pushed into the body of the fuel distibutor) you have WOT fuel flow, which is why you filled the exhaust will gas.

Cleaning that unit, the warm up regulator and injectors was what the post on NARP was all about. Tedious, but it can be done. There is a nut on the side of the fuel distributor that holds in a shim, spring and piston ... it is the main pressure regulator. If you take it out, don't loose ANYTHING.

Clamp the exposed tit of the center plunger in a vise and pull to see if you can get it out of the housing. Clamp only on the tit as it is a machined piece matched to the bore of the fuel distributor.

I will be at the shop today (Sunday) if you feel like driving to Riverside. I can give you a Fuel Distributor I have already cleaned up (bring your old one).

In lieu of that ... couple of cans of Brake/Carb cleaner.
Once you have pulled the center piston ... fill the cavity with brake cleaner and let it sit. Clean the piston carefully (don't scratch it) and set it aside.

Flip the fuel distributor over and carefully fill each of the outlets with brake cleaner and let sit.

Using a blow gun (rubber tipped is nice), start blowing back from the outlets on the top of the FD - don't use full pressure - trigger the gun slowly. When the passage is clear, you will feel air coming from the center cavity. Once all six are cleaned and clear, coat the piston with 3 in One oil and put it back in. Make sure it slides freely (the oil will give some resistance).

Pull the injectors with the tool I described ... straight claw framing hammer and wood block. Using the brake cleaner can with the red plastic tube, insert tube into inlet of injector and trigger ... it has enough pressure to overcome the spring inside. You will see the spray from the injector change from dribbles to a fine conical spray when clean.

The warm up regulator has a fuel in and a fuel out. Fill each hole with brake cleaner and let it sit for a while. Apply gentle air pressure with the gun until air flows freely through the holes (even in reverse). Once it's clean, you're ready to give the start a try. Warm up regulator modifys system fuel pressure according to temperature of the heating coil inside the unit and, depending upon the year, by vacuum also.

Oh, the car will run without the Fuel Accumulator, but will not hot start. It smooths out pulses from the fuel pump and maintains pressure in the system for about 20 minutes after shutdown. I bought one from a member for $75 and one off eBay for $65.



PS Gint ... I started to write this up for your site, but I HATE your template and gave up for the moment. Fixing The Dead

Danka Herr Doktor!

I'd love to come out and do a swap, but I have to watch the kids today.

I don't get it. The post in your link follows the basic template almost exactly. And you don't need to follow it exactly for that matter. What you wrote there would be great as a tech article. In fact I'm going to need all of this info when I'm ready to get mine running. If you want to put it up as a tech article, email it to me. We'll work it out and get it posted.

I've got an idea for you Joe ...

We really should build one of these.

Extend the:

fuel lines
wiring harness
shift rod
throttle, clutch, speedo cables
targa top

We'd need to figure out how to mount the rear doors.

It's "Professor" H-E-L-L-O!



It's Slits... H-E-L-L-O! He still has a rotory dial phone in them there hills.

No worries Gint .... your tag coding is a little different from what I learned and use. I just thought I would pitch a bitch.

I'll get around to setting it up 'cause it can save you $400 for a rebuilt fuel distributor and about $300 for a warm up regulator.

I also need to write up how one checks the system cold and warm pressures and how they can be adjusted with gentle taps from a hammer,but then you can get the CIS service manual too! It won't tell you how to adjust the warmup reguator with a hammer though.