I have headers on my 914/6 and, due to the bends, can't get to the outer header/exhaust nut on the middle cylinder (passenger side). I tried a wobble socket and a u-joint with no luck. Is there a special tool for this?

Makes a difference, factory heater boxes or headers? If headers, what brand? Bursch go on pretty easy with a wobble socket. Others can require the "funky" bent wrench.

I used a curved box wrench....custom heated and curved by me....

I think I need the "funky wrench"...

My headers look like the set on the right (and you can see the hole I'm talking about):

Are you using the barrel nuts or standard copper exhaust lock-nuts?

I see the hole you're talking about. I used a combination of both types of fasteners... and don't remember having to go through any exceptional gyrations when I fit headers onto my /6.

-Rusty

There are copper nuts (12mm) installed. A barrel nut would be easily reachable...I may use those when I re-install (but I have to get this last one off first! ).

I'll pick up one of these tomorrow...

Mine have long enough studs that I did this:

I drilled out an allen head nut and use it as a spacer. This gets the nut away from the head and allows me to use a regular wrench to tighten it. That is the only difficult to reach nut on my headers as well.

The stud isn't long enough...it barely protrudes from the nut as-is. Regardless, I have to get this nut off, not on!

How long must the studs be when using the barrel (allen-head) nuts? (I guess I only need one for this position as all the others were readily accessible.)

I use a 1/4" drive 12mm socket and a universalon a long extension for 1 of the tough ones and a 1/4" drive 12mm on a long extension without a universal for the other. The regular socket doesn't really engage the nut, it tears it up, so I replace it every time. I have to lift the engine up tomorrow to put it back in the car, I'll get a pic to demonstrate.
The exhaust is exactly like the one on the R.

A universal attached to a socket is too long. I think a socket with the universal built in (swivel socket?) might work. Finding one might be a little tricky, though (without having to purchase an entire set).

I couldn't find the wrench that I have, but something like this should work:

They should have attached it with the proper barrel nuts. The factory heat exchangers are fastened on with a combination of barrel nuts and hex nuts. I suggest a wobble socket to get the one off you are having problems with.

I had headers like that and i ground the top of one of the barrel nuts into a cone shape so it would fit.
Sorry for the blurry photo..

That's a distributor wrench. I had one and tried, but the head was too big to fit in the area surrounding the nut.

I finally did get the nut off this evening....and the winner is.....:

If I use barrel nuts, how much stud should be sticking out? It appears some of the studs (different lengths) are pretty well seated. I don't want to risk breaking them off attempting to adjust their depth/length.

I would not suggest using barrel nuts on a HEADER installation unless you know that your studs are a consistent length. The reason being: If the stud is too long, you won't get the barrel nut tight enough.

My advise, use the wrench you found. Use PLENTY of anti-seize on the nuts and studs.

That's what I was afraid of...

What size are the copper exhaust nuts? I'm guessing 8 x 1.25?