Put it all together and need some answers.

1st: I didnt get any nylock nuts (6 needed) for mounting the bearing blocks to body. Easy fix but, shouldn't they come w/ the set up?

2nd: My car didnt have an existing bar and I need a template to locate the holes. Anyone have such a thing?

TIA

It should have come with Nylocks. Mine did and we got ours in the same group.

I could make a template from my car and fax it to you, or I could tape a ruler across the hole and take a picture. From another thread I was reading today they weren't always the same (on both sides) from the factory.

MUELLER!! (ya know, like Ferris Bueler) I was jipped. I wanna refund (JK)

I really want a template of some sort. Thought PP might have one, but cant seem to find it. Some help, DD?

No nylock nuts needed to mount the blocks to the body. But since you dont have the stock sway bar hoes tapped, I guess you do need them

***edit***
supposed to say "...sway bar holes tapped..."

Mueller has a problem with losing his nuts.

Jon:

on the sides being different.


B

The wells are tapped? Seems weak to me. Thats what I was thinking first...

Just the three surrounding holes. Weak, yea maybe, but mine held up for 30+ years.... :finger2:

Maybe sometime this weekend or next week we can get yours put on.

There are nuts tack welded on the gas tank side of the fender well, not just tapped sheet metal. Just making sure everyone is clear.

But that wasnt no 22mm hallow bar.

Did you make your hole any larger?

Well I read it on your BBS!

Yes. I had to ream it out a small ammount. I actually used a hand file because I am stuck in the stone age..

You shouldn't tap the "hoes" you know.
Speaking of sway-bars, what size/grade nuts and bolts should I use on the factory mounts for a factory bar? The car originally had one, but I one of the POs sold it or something. So I have the holes there already, and I got mounts with the used bar I bought that seem to be fine, but I don't know if normal nuts and bolts would shake themselves loose. I have to order new bushings for it before I install it anyway, so should I order some special locknuts or something along with them? If so, where should I get them? Thanks guys.

-Matt

I'm pretty sure what you read was referring to aftermarket bars needing adjustment when using a 6 bolt procedure on a car that never came with a bar.

Maybe.


B

Nylock nuts are supplied with the Tarett. I can give you the torque numbers tommorow. I cant go to the garage right now, its almost past my bedtime
edit*****Brad you type too fast...plus you have a guest to entertain

Matt,
Torq all the bolts to 19 ft.lb. The drop link lok nuts are 20-30 ft.lb. And the a arm tab and sway bar arms get 20 ft.lb.

Korijo,
I’m a little unsure about what your actual situation is but I’ll try to help out. If your car has the factory mounting features, you can mount directly to them. The only mod required is to open up the large hole in the middle for the larger swaybar to fit through. There will be nuts and a plate welded on the inside, so no additional hardware is required.

If you don’t have the factory mounting, you will need a set of adaptor nut plates for the inside of the well. Tapping the sheetmetal or simply adding nuts on the inside will not hold for long, even with washers under them. Let me know if you need the nut plates.

This link includes instructions for the nut plate.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...ont_swaybar.htm


Ira

Chris and Korijo....Yes the Tarett bar does come with 4 Nylock nuts, but they are not for the bearing blocks, two are for the endlink to A-arm bracket and the other two are for the pinch bolt at the end of the swaybar arm.


Sorry for not asking if you had a stock bar/aftermarket bar or no bar at all

I've only installed bars in cars that never had them, I've also never used a backing plate although I know I should have, but I felt the larger fender washers and combination of lock washers and LocTite was okay.

It's best to weld the nut-plates to the inside of the inner fender; they are quite a bit stronger that way. I've heard stories from a few people about the bolt-on version starting to tear the fender around the bolt-holes.

Then again, I simply used the factory weld-nuts and didn't bother with a nut-plate.

--DD

I'll need some nut plates, Ira... got some?

When you get them Dave, drive the car over and I'll spot weld them in for you.
Geoff

Hardy har har

Got the engine shelf out. Just a bit more prep work... Then weld everything at once. Waddau think? When is a good time for you? Busy these days?

Which Dave??

--DD (Who thinks he's the butt of one more "Dave's car doesn't run" joke...)

Dave,
I have nut plates in stock and can send out a sent in the morning. Send me a PM and we can make arrangements.

Thanks,
Ira