OK, went in to do some work on the teener and do an initial assessment. I worked on replacing the stuck spark plug first figuring that was going to be a royal PITA. Now, Sir Andy will have to answer this, what happened to all the big and strong Germans?

Sprayed the plug with WD-40, got some tools, came back and the plug came right out. So your telling me a short stocky half-Chinaman can work the plug out when the Germanys can’t? Maybe it’s like the jar that won’t open; the other guy works it loose and then it comes off easy for the second guy. Either that or all the Germans have gone soft.

So that was an easy fix. Now lets tackle the head and check to see if they are tightened to specs. Dangit, gotta take off the tin. So we start undoing screws and bolts. I pause to talk to a guy who is a mechanic my co-worker told me about and in our conversation I we discuss the smoke coming out of the back and Scotty’s (other mechanic) assessment that the head is loose. PJ, guy I am talking to says, “did it smoke before you put in the diesel?” I tell him no. He then says, don’t mess with the head, its fine. You still got diesel in the system and that is why she is blowing smoke. Well, that would make sense!

So I put the bolts and screws back on, by the way, after some research I got the set adjusted so I could reach the pedals. Thanks to everyone who discussed it, it helped a lot. So, tin is back together. Set up the lift arms and hoist her up to take a look.

Suspension assessment.
1. Front suspension is stock, don’t know when the cartridges were last changed. Everything is solid.
2. Rear suspension, KYB shocks with coil overs. SWEET! Doesn’t look bad at all. Lets look at the mounting consoles for the trailing arms. Hmm, they look solid. I had to push hard to get the arms to move. They would move left, towards the outside of the car, but not much. I couldn’t get them to move right. I am thinking the bushing may eventually need replacement but, Ingo was on crack. By the way, I found out that Ingo ISN’T the mechanic and DOESN’T know much about the car.
3. Overall the suspension looks to be in good shape despite what Mittelmotor thought.

Exhaust.
1. UGLY! Headers into a dual exhaust setup. Looks rough.
2. Right side exhaust mount into engine has a mounting stud missing. Going to have to fix that.
3. Overall it works but I will change it back to stock style set up and put on the heat exchangers after I clean up the exchanger parts.

Engine.
1. Dual Delorto carbs, distributor was tightened. Carbs in good shape.
2. Wiring in engine compartment will need some repair and replacement, I see a lot of electrical tape keeping the wiring together and a lot of splicing.
3. Left carb has a tube coming off it and a bolt stuck into the other end of the tube. What the hell? Anyone have any ideas?

Body.
1. Minor rust bubbles that I will have to fix.
2. All seals for cabin will need replacement and windshield outer seal needs replacement.
3. Lights need adjustment to lay right with the hood.
4. Rear trunk latch, female end is hosed.
5. Pretty littel "Porsche" reflector needs replacement, ripped it off to open the trunk. It was beat up anyway.
6. New side mirrors and rearview mirror will be needed.

Overall, car is not nearly as bad as Ingo made it out to be.

Pictures are below, take a look and someone tell me what the hell the tube from the carb is supposed to do. Also, do I need to undo the nuts on the rear console to get a better look to make sure it hasn't "ovaled" out?

girlie-mahn

From what I have read else wear, That exhaust could be costing you some power....Others can chime in...

Do you know what type of Dell that is? I did a quick flip through my Dell handbook and didn't recognize it. Maybe a FRD Single barrel???

As far as the hose with the bolt, I have no idea. My first thought was that it was part of a no longer used fuel line, but from the pic, it is hard to see where it is connected. Maybe if you take another pic we could help. Looks pretty

good luck

OK, not totally sure what type. I understand they came in 36, 40 and 45s. I think they are the 40s, how do I tell? I am completely unfamiliar with Dellortos.

take a picture of a carb with one of the filter tops off or from the side. i think that hose might have been used for some sort of vacume advance. find a matching plug like the others and put it in the hole. if the bolt leaks air or the hose fails you'll have a MASSIVE vacume leak.

Got email fromt the PO, said the carbs are Dellorto 34s. I thought I saw somwhere that they only came in 36, 40 and 45s? Anyone got any clues? I will also do an internet search.

I also sent an email back asking about the tube. My MG has a vacuum advance but I did not think of that for the 914. Any recommendations on a good manual for the Dellortos?

interesting exhaust i would think if the heat doesnt kill the motor the fumes spinning around will kill the occupants. maybe an exhaust balance tube between the two sides just before the mufflers and pipes to direct the fumes/heat out past the valace.

mike

If the bolt hole was ovaled, you should see some signs of movement around the nut......IE wear marks from the nut moving around. I don't see that in the pictures you posted.

Take a awl and scribe along the nut flanges. Then take the car for a drive. If it is moving you should see that the nut has moved in relation to the marks. No movement, no worrys.

Thanks, once I can "legally" drive it I will do that. What's the torque specs for that nut? Haynes never makes it easy to figure out which specs are what because there language isn't always clear.

I believe my Haynes say 108 ft/lbs for that nut. I will double check for you.

Edit: well you are right about confusing terms. hopefully one of the experts will chime in. Haynes says: control arm bearing/body 108 ft/lbs, control arm bearing/bearing 50 ft/lbs.

Clymer manual says; Trailing arm to body nut 50 ft/lbs , Trailing arm to bracket 108 ft/lbs

Based on the descriptions, I believe it is saying the nut on the suspension ear should be 50 ft/lbs, and the nut on the camber bracket should be 108 ft/lbs.

Not really sure why they would be different other than additional forces may be present at that end of the trailing arm mount since that is the "longer" end of the two mounts.


Jim

Thanks for the info on the nut, I will check specs this week. Got email back from the PO on the tube coming off the carb.

According to Rob (PO) the tube was for power brakes??? OK, that stumped me, someone more experienced and wiser than I please enlighten me and, should I find a plug for the sucker?

As someone that had a dual exhaust somewhat similar to that. take it off and throw it in the trash. I have a 4 to 1 header now and the engine seems to like it better. I'm waiting for Jake Raby to come in and castigate the previous owner for being a motard with that dual exhaust....'heat is everything' just jake

Go to Amazon and search Dellorto Tech Book by Bob Tomlinson.

CB Performance sells it, $20 or soo IIRC. I got one and it has everything you will ever want to know!

Replace the torn CV boot before you start driving the car.

WILCO.

Based on that description, I think you have that reversed.
One big nut can take a lot of torque.
Three small bolts would not take such a torque.
So torque the two shaft nuts to 108 ft-lbs, and the three bracket bolts to 50 ft-lbs.
Be very careful with the bracket bolts. All too often they break off. Best thing is to remove the plastic caps on the top of the bolt tubes, fill with penetrating oil, then replace the caps. let soak for a month or so. Then try to remove one bolt at a time. I'd recommend new bolts based on the degree of corrosion. If the bolts get weakened, then they are a hazzard. Drilling out those broken bolts is very difficult.

OK, got the fuse block in yesterday, after the hail storm passed this morning, yes we got hail this morning, I went to the shop to work on her.

As I began the process of swapping the wires to the new fuse block I found out that several wires were missing so the circuit was not complete. OK she worked before that way so lets finish wiring her up. Well, no dice. The harness was a mess! There were more bad splices than you can shake a stick at! I don't know what went where and haven't a clue where to start in order to trace the wires to the lights. I am thinking, new wiring harness. At least then I know that the wires are in good condition and will work when you plug them in.

OK, so lets move onto draining the tank so I can blow out the lines. Ya know, Porsche could have made it easier to access the lines! One of the lines sorta crumbled at the tip so, gonna have to replace them too. At least it is easy to pull the tank to get to the lines.

So the plan right now is to have the autocraft guys tow the car to my house and put it in my outside garage for me to do the work on. That way I ain't paying $4 a day to leave it at the autocraft place. Tomorrow I will finish stripping the MG engine and move the setup to my basement along with some other things. I am hoping to bring the car home on Tuesday so I can start working on her in the evening. Well, time to go order some parts.