I can't plop down the $1k+ for a tangerine, so I need some direction on an inexpensive, durable (read: wont rust like madness), clean (read: won't leak so I can fab up heat). I'm not sure what a decent one will cost... Definitely looking for a boost over SSI's in performance.

My guesses are...

Euro-Race
Kerry Hunter
???

thanks for your input.

Kerry does not do them any more. MSDS is the best for the price (less than 550.00) and the super trap bolts right on. Marty is known for getting higher horsepower than anyone out of his exhausts and headers.

Sweet. If I ever go six, I can use an MSDS header (they don't have a 4-cyl header listed on their site).

So, 4 cylinder options?

http://www.triadwestperformance.com/

Brando, the T-4 race header that we build is ONLY avilable thru Auto Atlanta (contract build). Check their site in the 914 engine/ exhaust area and it will come up. Good HP/TQ for the price !
Marty
msds

Thanks Marty, I greatly appreciate your reply. I sent you a reply as well. I will if I absolutely have to but ...

The system you make works good with a modified 2056 engine?

I have a eurorace header and it sounds very nice. it's a bit of a bitch to work around and mine leaks at the collector, but it has little stub pipes that make in easy to take on and off. you need to modify the clutch pulley bracket to make the clutch cable not melt on the header...that's what i'm dealing with right now

Did you put header wrap on the header, or a thermal sleeve on the cable (or both?)

From what I have read, at minimum you need the sleeve on the cable (I have read both throttle and clutch) or else the heat from the header will wreck them.

Header wrap should also help with engine cooling, as it will direct the heat out the tail pipe, and not let it radiate from the pipes back into the engine and tranny.
Header wrap may allow the header to rust out faster though, as it will allow moisture to collect. I intend to wrap it up anyhow.

Zach

i have sleeves on the cables, and the point is to NOT have direct contact. The clutch cable is quite persnickety and likes to push down HARD onto the manifold. this melts the catheter inside the cable making for a really 'cabley' pedal feel. I'm not wrapping the headers. they will destroy themselves in no time flat from what i've read on the topic. jet hot coating would work better, but i'm not doing that. drilling a hole in a pulley bracket is pretty easy and requires no money, so i'm doing that.

One way to help the cable clear the header:

I only have a thermal sheath on the cables, and I doubled it up where its near the header. Also, I bolted an "Adell" clamp on the case where the now non-existent guide plate (The one that would go under the pushrod tubes and mounts between the case and the heat exchangers) used to be to help guide the cables. . My cable appear to be holding up fine. BUT, I haven't pulled the thermal sheath off to see.

This is the sheath I used....

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku

Interesting! I hadnt thought to go UNDER then header! Wouldnt it be kinda easy to catch it on stuff hanging that low?

Looks like the pulley bracket is cut at the top. what kind of metal is that little extension made of? 1/4'' steel?

Click to view attachment
The header system works well up thru 2.2 Ltr. T-4s, no problem on your 2056 !
We highly suggest NO wraps of any kind on our (any mfgs) exhaust systems. It basically accelerates the corrosive process by trapping moisture and rusting thru the tubing of the header/ exhaust/muffler. We deny any warranty claims on MSDS items that have been wrapped, and most other mfgs do likewise.
If your looking to keep heat away from engine components, thermal sleeve the cables, or spend a little more $$ and send your exhaust out for ceramic coating.
The HBs in the pic of our 2.0 CI class engine (shown here) are coated in Xtreme(brand) metallic ceramic coating (Oxnard CA). After 20 minutes engine shutdown you can touch the exhaust system.
Marty

...looked twice, didn't see 'em.

Page 39, top of the page.

Yeah, I do keep my AA cat at work. I do most of my shopping at work.

Zach

NO mods to the pulley bracket required. the tab is just over an inch long, 13ga sheet metal.
I used to use that setup on my race car until the last round of lowering. It never hit the ground.
I am about to add a new product to my line-up that relocates the pulley bracket to a horizontal position and routes the cable above the pipes. It is fully tested on my race car, and I have several in stock, just haven't found time to take installation pics for my website.

In the name of all that is holy....put me on the list for one of these! Please?

hold on...13ga sheet metal? as in .0897 inches thick? that holds up to anything? what is is that? Like 3/32'' ? i was thinking something a little more substantial would do the trick? am I wrong?

http://www.coasteltools.com/tech_steel_gauge_chart.htm is where i get the number

as sheet metal goes, 13 gauge is kinda thick. Your car is built from thinner stuff.

Zach

oh, yea but see, uhhh, Marty said look at the SITE. heh heh... thanks tho Zach, i'll check the uber-awsome-volume-of-gold-that-is-the-a.a.-catalog.

A piece the size used (approximately) can hold ~1000# before it breaks.

whelp, I found some 12ga galvanized steel strip at lowe's and got a grade 8 bolt and some nuts and went to town.

I had to pull really hard to get the heat sleeve un-melted from the clutch cable and I have to run the clutch cable underneath the engine mount bar, but i duplicated what racer chris did and it works beautifully! If i'd run the clutch thru the mount bar, it would still be all on the header.

As a side note, i also fixed my timing and synched my carbs tonight too. talk about getting a lot of stuff done!

eurorace...FTW!

Cause I am probably going to have to do the same thing, now that I have been scared off the header wrap.
How long is the piece of metal used to offset the cable pully?
Zach

The ones I supply with my headers have the bolt holes 7/8" apart.