I am pretty sure I have some broken engine mounts, from stand still I get a BAD shuttering. where and how hard are they to replace? (hand tools, no lift!

depending on the year of your car, replacing the mounts is easy (70-72) or moderate (74- ). early mounts should be (i don't have an early car) easy as the mounts are located at the ends of the engine mount bar. late mounts can be done with the engine in the car but you have to slightly lift the engine and hold it so you can disconnect the mounts. this job could be better shown/explained/figured out if you would refer to a parts diagram (on pelican or auto atlanta sites). have you concluded the shuttering is the mounts and not the clutch?

AND if you have the later style (73?) style you can just use 2 bolts and 2 rollerblade wheels (sanded down) in leu of the real deal and end up with a stiffer mount!!!!

I have a 75.
I am pretty sure its the mounts b/c it only happens at low speeds when accelerating from a stop and not when going in reverse.

the worst part is supporting the engine and removing the bar. the top nuts on the mounts are a tight squeeze, but they can be removed 1/8 of a turn at a time unless you have a racheting openend/box wrench.

k

http://autoatlanta.com/model/914catalog/914engine8.html

with sideshift trans, the rubber mounts are in the center of the bar (top)

with tailshift trans, the rubber mounts are at outter edges of engine bar (bottom)

you should still go under the car and lift or put upward force on the engine to verify the mounts are bad. it should be easy to see if the rubber of the mount has separated from the metal ends.

Should you use stock replacement mounts or is there a better mount to use?
Im not running a modified motor yet but i plan on it..

I am telling you the above mentioned works great for a sport type mount (AKA side shifter) I ran it with my 72 for years....

Roller blade wheels?!? That's an interesting idea.

I'd even bet that you can get them it neon green.

Wes V