I know how to adjust valves. I have had two daily drivers. I had an almost new 76 2.0 during college and an original 70 six when I move to CA in 83. I am experience in finding the TDC mark on a 2.0 fan. Until my purchase of a 75 1.8, I though all teeners had a white TDC mark on their fan.

Ok it is time to do a valve adjustment on my 1975 1.8 teener. It is my understanding that there is only one mark on a 1975 1.8L fan and that is a red 7.5 BTDC mark.

Can someone with a 1.8 or intimate carnal knowledge of 1.8 tell me how they adjust their valves. Please include all intimate details...

I am so confused... I don't know if I should be looking for TDC from the top or the bottom...

Thank you.

James

Get a mirror and look at the back side of the fan through the inspection hole. There is a cutout there also at the top of the housing. There should be a TDC mark on the back side of the fan. At least there is on my 1.8 fan.

BTW, the 7.5(?) degree mark (7.5 degrees of crank rotation before (after?) top dead center) on the 1.8 fan is close enough to TDC for the purpose of doing a valve adjustment. Just make sure the valves are closed and go.

Gint,
I know you are the man. So what you are saying is that if I loop the fan and look to the rear of the fan I will see a white (what color) mark that appears in “V” in back after the red mark appears on the front “V”?

Right?

I really appreciate the help. No sarcasm intended.

James

with gint. That's how I found it on my 1.8

Hi Jesiv,

I just did the valve adjustment on my 1.8 a week ago, so I've got a good memory for the frustrations involved. They are:
1. Porsche didn't include a TDC mark on the fan. As you pointed out, the only mark is the 7.5' ATDC mark for cylinders 1 and 3.
2. It's impossible to see the factory timing mark unless you use a mirror. The Porsche engineer in charge of the fan housing design included a v-notch on the front of the housing that matches the v-notch on the back of the housing. Unfortunately, he didn't tell the engineer in charge of the timing marks and as a result, there is no timing mark in the front of the fan to be seen in the front v-notch. To see the factory mark, you'll need a mirror. I've added a mark with a white paint pen on the front of the fan that is visible in the front notch.
3. There's no good way to turn the engine over. I took out the plugs to reduce compression and was JUST able to turn over the engine with my left hand on the alternator pulley. Note that I was turning the engine backwards.
4. The mark on the fan is only used for cylinders 1 & 3. You'll have to guess about the location for cylinders 2 & 4. Fortunately, accuracy isn't crucial for this operation.

Here's how I did the job:
1. Remove the plugs. Remove the distributor so that you can see the rotor.
2. Pull off the valve covers. Before doing so, lay some rags, paper towels, or other absorbent material on your heat exchangers to collect the oil that will drain out of the heads. Otherwise, you'll pump oil smoke into the cabin for the next 2 weeks and your wife will refuse to ride in your stinky car.
3. Turn over the engine until the timing mark is aligned in the notch and the distributor rotor is pointed at the location for the #1 plug wire.
4. Get under the car and verify that BOTH of the valve rockers on the #1 cylinder have clearance to the valve stem. If only 1 valve has clearance, you should double-check that you've actually got the crankshaft positioned properly.
5. Set intake and exhaust valve clearances on cylinder #1. The inner valves are the intakes. The outer valves are the exhausts. You'll note that you have no room for a screwdriver on the #1 intake valve. Good luck on that one. (Hint: this is the only use for that silly bent screwdriver thingy out of the Craftsman 19-piece screwdriver set.)
6. Rotate the crankshaft backward 1/2 revolution until the distributor rotor is approximately 90' from the #1 position.
7. Get under the car and set the clearances for cylinder #2.
8. Repeat for cylinders #3 and #4, sequentially.
9. Reinstall the valve covers, distributor cap, and spark plugs.
10. Start the car and marvel at the spreading pool of oil under the passenger side of the car.
11. Remove the passenger valve cover and reseat the cork gasket.
12. Drink a beer. You deserve it. In fact, drink four beers, one for each cylinder.

It could be any color in the world the PO put on it. Look for a perpendicular groove on the fan that shows up in the "v" notch of the housing on the back side of the fan. I can produce pics of both the notch in the housing and the fan tomorrow after work since I've pulled them and all of the tin form my motor. But I just got out of the shower and am watching the F1 race. I'm not going back into the garage now a screw around with greasy parts.

Gint,

Pics would be great. But are you describing a machined mark(s)?


Thanks for the help!

James

Dave,

Thanks for your inspiration. I agree with the beer. I am going to drink the beer tonight and do the measurements tomorrow. If the measurements are correct tomorrow, I intend to drink 4 more beers after actually completing the task.

Also, are you running a stock 75 1.8 l-jet?


Regards,

James

Yes, a machined mark.

Yes, all stock but for the fact that I've removed the deccel valve.

Or you could just do the job the easy way:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=28758

No finding TDC, no jumping up and down, don't even need a distributor installed.

The Cap'n

Well, I bit the bullet and went for it. The rumors are true, there is a TDC mark on the fan (on the rear engine side) and a 7.5 BTDC red mark on the outer portion of the fan. So after locating the TDC mark on the fan I was able to place a 180 degree mark on the flywheel. Thus I was able to rotate the flywheel 180 degrees and adjust the valves. I started with number 1 and went in reverse (1234) order thus doing one side at a time.

It was very nice to be able to stay under the car and simply rotate the wheel to go from one cylinder to another.

Thank all of you for your help. The Mystery has been solved.

Regards,

James

That's exactly the way I do it. Once I'm under the car, I don't come out until it's done. And it doesn't take long at all. So, you don't need pics now I take it.

No I don't need the pics. But thank you for the offer.

Regards,

James

I'd already taken them. I'll use 'em next time this comes up. And it will...

Glad ya got it worked out.

i just lost all respect for you..... weenie.....