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ericread
As I continue to update my 914, I was getting concerned that the plastic fuel lines in the tunnel could create a danger. Postings here indicate that they can be a serious fire problem to "don't worry, they'll be fine if they're left alone.

I went ahead and purchased the stainless steel fuel lines from CFR and set out to replace the lines on Saturday. After removing all the stuff covering up the tunnel, I inspected the existing plastic fuel lines. To my dismay, they looked pretty good. But, what the heck, I decided to complete the replacement.

Once I had puled the old lines out I took another, closer look. When I picked up the plastic line it easily cracked and broke:
Click to view attachment

And, although you can see a couple of breaks here, my finger is pointing to a number of very small cracks that are not very apparent in this picture:
Click to view attachment

The plastic was really brittle and easily cracked. Would it have broken if I had left it alone in the tunnel? Maybe not. But I am really glad I replaced the plastic line when I did.

If the fuel line was this brittle in my 74, then I would think that all of the plastic fuel lines are a potential fire hazard. Please take a few minutes to inspect your fuel lines. It may save your car, or even your life.


ConeDodger
I did the same. Replaced my EFI plastic lines with a single stainless line for my carbs. My plastic lines looked like new. Not a single sign of wear.

I guess it depends on the car. Glad you replaced yours though. That would have been a heck of a CarBQ! blink.gif
913B
Boy I am just taking my chances on my 71. Makes me re-think this necessary upgrade. Did you have the engine out of the car ?

Ted
PeeGreen 914
It is very easy to do. You do not need to pull the engine or gas tank at all.
Trevorg7
QUOTE(Phoenix 914-6GT @ Apr 9 2008, 11:02 PM) *

It is very easy to do. You do not need to pull the engine or gas tank at all.


It is easy to do, easier than it sounds. I pulled the tank, which I believe makes it easier, but had the engine in the car.

Do a search, you'll find my thread.

T
Cap'n Krusty
I may be clueless, but I fail to see how the lines through the tunnel can be changed with the fuel tank installed. May be just me, and maybe 35 years of working professionally on 914s isn't enough experience, but I don't think it can be done.

The Cap'n, always ready to learn new stuff ............................
PeeGreen 914
uhhh.. I was smoking crack... sorry Cap'n... yeah. I removed the tank. I don't know what I was thinking. However, it is very easy.
ericread
QUOTE(porsche913b_sp @ Apr 9 2008, 10:52 PM) *

Boy I am just taking my chances on my 71. Makes me re-think this necessary upgrade. Did you have the engine out of the car ?

Ted


I had asked around on this forum and everyone assured me that this did not necessitate removing the engine. Sure as sh*t, it took a couple of hours to replace the lines and the engine was never in the way.

The hardest part was getting the rubber caps off the firewalls and removing the items over the tunnel. I had removed the fuel tank once before, so it really wasn't difficult. Just make sure your tank is empty...

Please note that the rubber grommets at the engine firewall disintegrated when I removed the old lines. I was able to get new grommets with a pretty good match at Kragens for a couple of bucks each.

The rubber seal into the fuel tank area is a b*tch to remove, but once off, it goes back on pretty easily.

All in all, a couple of hours and you have new stainless steel fuel lines. I used the lines from CFR/Tangerine and had no difficulties whatsoever. (no affiliation).

Good luck!
thesey914
I recently replaced mine and wish I'd left them they were fine and I was only using one for carbs -no return. The length past the firewall had hardened but was still serviceable.
Once they were out I tested them to see how brittle they were on the tunnel section and I had to flex them 5 or 6 times 180 deg to get them to crack. Not sure they even split but they were kinked beyond re-using.
Modern cars still use plastic fuel lines. Good idea to check them but don't my not necessarily have to bin them
rhodyguy
the plastic fuel lines in the tunnel terminate at the large rectangular rubber block in the front firewall. the 2 short metal lines incased in the block need to be removed to run the ss lines thru to the area under the tank. when inserting the ss line(s), a little glycerin on the outside of the line allows it to slide right thru. it could be done with the tank in but you need little hands to renew the rubber lines from the tank to the ss hard lines and any remaining fuel is going to drain all over your hands and face. if you haven't cleaned the inside of your tank, you need to pull it anyway.

ClayPerrine


<soapbox> I have been preaching this for YEARS. After watching Betty's car burn, I will never own a 914 that doesn't have the plastic lines replaced. It is cheap insurance. </soapbox>


agree.gif
ericread
QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Apr 10 2008, 07:51 AM) *

the plastic fuel lines in the tunnel terminate at the large rectangular rubber block in the front firewall. the 2 short metal lines incased in the block need to be removed to run the ss lines thru to the area under the tank. when inserting the ss line(s), a little glycerin on the outside of the line allows it to slide right thru. it could be done with the tank in but you need little hands to renew the rubber lines from the tank to the ss hard lines and any remaining fuel is going to drain all over your hands and face. if you haven't cleaned the inside of your tank, you need to pull it anyway.


Glycerin! Dammit! That would probably have saved me hours!!! headbang.gif
zymurgist
QUOTE(ericread @ Apr 10 2008, 11:22 AM) *

QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Apr 10 2008, 07:51 AM) *

the plastic fuel lines in the tunnel terminate at the large rectangular rubber block in the front firewall. the 2 short metal lines incased in the block need to be removed to run the ss lines thru to the area under the tank. when inserting the ss line(s), a little glycerin on the outside of the line allows it to slide right thru. it could be done with the tank in but you need little hands to renew the rubber lines from the tank to the ss hard lines and any remaining fuel is going to drain all over your hands and face. if you haven't cleaned the inside of your tank, you need to pull it anyway.


Glycerin! Dammit! That would probably have saved me hours!!! headbang.gif


I use dish soap. Works well and you probably already have some in the house.
ChrisFoley
Even if you already had metal lines in the car when you bought it, don't assume they are safe without inspecting them. What we found in Lee Auerbach's car was 5/16" brake line coming through the firewall, and the original steel section from the factory lines up front. Unfortunately, they were joined inside the tunnel by a short hose and cheap hose clamps. Without any reason to inspect the lines inside the tunnel, it would have remained that way and the hose connection would have eventually leaked. If Lee had asked us to retrofit the engine with D-jet the supply side connection would have failed quickly I am sure.
ericread
QUOTE(Racer Chris @ Apr 10 2008, 09:06 AM) *

Even if you already had metal lines in the car when you bought it, don't assume they are safe without inspecting them. What we found in Lee Auerbach's car was 5/16" brake line coming through the firewall, and the original steel section from the factory lines up front. Unfortunately, they were joined inside the tunnel by a short hose and cheap hose clamps. Without any reason to inspect the lines inside the tunnel, it would have remained that way and the hose connection would have eventually leaked. If Lee had asked us to retrofit the engine with D-jet the supply side connection would have failed quickly I am sure.


I agree. One of the points I was trying to make is that although the plastic tubing looked OK while it sat in the tunnel, once the line was removed I found that it was pretty ripe to fail. This could have been the same with non-plastic tubing.

Another "Truth" that has previously bitten me is that although a part may have been recently replaced, the PO may very well have installed it incorrectly, used the incorrect part, or even worked to hide the actual problem.

I look at it this way - It's my car and I am responsible not only for the safety of myself and my passengers, but I have a responsibility to ensure this car makes it through to the next generation. As these cars become more scarce, it is important that these amazing little vehicles stay on the road. It's part of our automotive history, which is sadly being neglected outside of a few groups like this one.

beerchug.gif
VaccaRabite
When you buy a 914, ALL the fuel lines should be replaced.

On mine, the lines in the engine bay were cracked. The tunnel lines were brittle. It was a fire waiting to happen.

Your PO may have put new lines in, or your lines may be 30 years old. As someone said, it is cheap insurance.

Zach
6freak
QUOTE(Phoenix 914-6GT @ Apr 9 2008, 11:02 PM) *

It is very easy to do. You do not need to pull the engine or gas tank at all.



Jon i cant find that forums or bolg with all the northwest guys on it ...help headbang.gif
auerbach
Boy its a good thing that I didn't ask Chris to retro with D-Jets, my wife would have been spending the life insurance money -- well that was unless SHE was driving. biggrin.gif
Cevan
For me it was peace of mind. I replaced all the fuel lines from the tank back. I had to replace at least half the clamps because they were not FI clamps. The last thing I want is a car fire while taking my 5 year old to school.

Here we are this morning. It's 35 degrees out so I was a good father and put the top on.

Click to view attachment
Mark Henry
If the teen is unmolessted and in pristine orginial condition plus the lines are still clear in colour then they are fine if they pass inspection.
If they look like those, the car is butchered, front pump mod, etc. then they should be gone through. The rubber hose should be replaced every 5yrs or so. FI clamps and hose only.

I still have my clear lines and they have no issues, but my car is in good shape.
swl
I wonder if the aging of the lines is something environmental. My original car has the original plastic that are still super flexible. The Ohio car seems to be good but I haven't tried any torture testing of the lines yet. I bought a set of Chris's lines primarily for the high pressurelines in the engine compartment. When I take the plastic ones out I'll try flexing the crap out of them to see if they will break.

Trivia - these lines are actually nylon. My neighbour is a polymer chemist and put a sample into a spectrometer - came out as nylon.
Mike Knox
I'm nearing the end of a conversion project, and after the 3.2 was installed I decided to go back and replace the fuel lines. CFR shipped them to me during the Christmas rush and they seemed to get here in no time at all even though it's a coast to coast deal. The lines are works of art. They went in fast (less than 1/2 hour total), and I feel confident they're a safe solution. The old lines were supple, but discolored. So I probably could've gotten 50K-100K more out of them with increasing worries and concerns every time I sniffed gasoline in the air when getting into "OOMPAH" for a drive.

You'd have to be a pretty cheap SOB not to want the peace of mind.

Mike Knox
sean_v8_914
what year model were the tested lines? I have heard that front fuel pump vs rear fuel pump was different material doe to pressurization. perhaps your friend can help us prove this. I could pull some early vs late year lines as samples
Mark Henry
On the 75-76 (front pump) I most likely would change the lines, but I have a '74 so they are low pressure.

Not cheap, just not into make-work projects, all my hose and FI clamps are new. I have had 1 fuel leak, stopped and had the car towed at first wiff. Brand new OE fuel filter had a crack in it, new lines wouldn't have helped.
ericread
OK, slightly off topic - Transmission Mounts!

I just updated my old transmission mounts to the 911 Sport mounts. Not a big deal...

But take a look at the mounts that came off my 914:
Click to view attachment
Doesn't look too bad, uh?

Click to view attachment
Uh, oh. Totally torn all the way around...

Click to view attachment

This was a disaster waiting to happen!

Please take a look at your transmission mounts NOW!

swl
QUOTE(sean_v8_914 @ Apr 16 2008, 10:42 PM) *

what year model were the tested lines? I have heard that front fuel pump vs rear fuel pump was different material doe to pressurization. perhaps your friend can help us prove this. I could pull some early vs late year lines as samples

73
horizontally-opposed
QUOTE(ericread @ Apr 17 2008, 11:46 PM) *

OK, slightly off topic - Transmission Mounts!

I just updated my old transmission mounts to the 911 Sport mounts. Not a big deal...



Part number for the above?

Thanks!

pete

P.S. I once saw a daily driven 914 (burgundy 1975/76) sitting at the toll plaza parking lot with the back half of its transmission hanging out... sitting on the ground.

Now I never see it anymore. idea.gif

pete
SirAndy
QUOTE(horizontally-opposed @ Apr 18 2008, 03:20 PM)
Part number for the above?


911-375-043-07-M61

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopca..._pg3.htm#item17


bye1.gif Andy

IPB Image
ericread
agree.gif That is the exact part number I used from Pelican Parts for the Transmission mounts.

This part number was highly recommended in this forum and fit without any difficulty. WEVO (member vendor forum) makes a mount that looks fricken awesome, but it's a bit too pricey for me right now.

Good luck
rascobo
I replaced my fuel line a few years back, before I knew about availibility of S.S. , and a local firm specializing in hose products recommended urethane tubing. So far it's working out fine and was an easy install, but if anyone is aware of a specific problems with it, I'd like to know.
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