I used Brad's method of tie-rod removal (courtsey of Jeroen):
1. with the car on jack stands, jack up the a-arm.
2. put another jack stand under the hub of the brake disc, so it supports the whole assembly.
3. remove jack.
4. get the BFH (5 lb sledge hammer) and give a couple of good whacks on the a-arm, the tension on the torsion bar helps pushing the a-arm down.

This procedure worked wonderfully on the passenger's side (3 blows and it was off).

But after repeated blows, PB blaster, repeated blows, nothing. This went on for about 2 hours.

Ok, let's get the tie-rod removal tool (not the tuning fork type).

Attached removal tool and tighten. After tightening 3 times, and the tools sliding off the rod, I added a c-clamp to keep the arms from expanding. Again, I tighten the screw down until I couldn't tighten anymore. I added PB blaster and let it sit for 2 hours, while I removed the passenger's side brake. I went back to the driver's side tie-rod, but no movement using the removal tool.

Can the tie-rod threaded shaft be bent enough that I should cut it off?

Should I try again tomorrow? (I'm leaving the removal tool and c-clamp attached overnight)

Try turning the steering wheel a bit to eleviate any pressure the tie rod has on it. Then attack with BFH.

With the set-up you have pictured (I've used this same thing) smack the top of the removal tool....a 5 pounder works gud. This has worked for me on stuborn ones. Some support under the arm itself keeps it from bouncing.

put a piece of lumber, 4x4 works well, under the arm as close to the end as you can. you need to back it up smack the top of the tie rod end. after you spray the end tap LIGHTLY around the knuckle. the vibrations can help the fluid seep in. when i did mine i put the sharpe point of the air chisel in the dimple on top. took a minute or two, but i felt better about that than smacking it with 3# hammer.

kevin

IF your not planning on re-using the tie rod....Tuning fork works great.

Rich

pickle fork? right

A trick an old mechanic taught me is to smack the side of the arm where the hole is that the tie rod goes in to. Did that make sense? The theory is, that by whacking the metal around the hole, you temporarily change the shape of the hole ever so slightly. If you can do this while leaving the removal tool on the rod end, you will also be applying removal pressure to the end.

I've had this work on stubborn ends a few times. Not necessarily on 914 tie rods, but it has worked for me in the past. IIWM, and I wasn't planning on using the tie rod again, the pneumatic chisel and pickle fork would probably get it out.

Little grease upon reassembly will ensure it comes apart 10 years from now.

Once you put the pickle fork to it you might as well go buy a new tie rod end. Turbo of course.

I ended up having to drill one of those buggers out. I started small and worked my way up. It worked gud...and fast.

You need this style tool. Steve

Yeah, that style with an impact gun.

- Brett Smith

i had one so stuck i had to pull the upright and move the whole assembly to the press, where it took A LOT of pressure to get un-stuck. definitely use anti-sieze when they go back together, however you get it out...

JP,

Your technique worked perfectly, one smack on the top of the removal tool with the BFH and it was FREE.

Thanks again to everyone who made recommendations.