i see that the turbo tie rods look alot different than stock?

edit: pics of my front suspension - looks like I have a worn part or two

jim

For the tie rod ends, there is a nice puller (looks like a gear puller) that does alot less harm to the rubber boot.

If the tie rods have been replaced or removed in the past couple of years, they will come out of the spindle with a few good hard hits of a hammer on the side of the spindle are that holds the tie rod end.

If you are tossing the tie rod end, use a tuning fork...

Ball joints.
You can buy the special socket (pelican parts) that lines up with the slots in the ball joint retainer and use a socket wrench to get it off.

I have used a large pipe wrench many times with no issue..but you can only bite about 1/4 of an inch so it takes a bit of talent and both hands to get a good enough grip to take it off...

Rich

Two words: Air chisel. Tears up the nut when you use it to spin off the ball joint nut, but you should be replacing the nut anyway. Also makes short work of the wedge pin holding the ball joint to the strut!

Having the "special tool" is handy for when you are tightening up that ball joint nut, but I wouldn't bother using it for removal. I've heard too many stories about the tool itself stripping...

--DD

Soak everthing in your favorite solution, I prefer PB Blaster. You can use a hammer(I like a 4# one) and just hit the top of the ball joint with the nut threaded to the top and it will usually break loose. Make sure you soak the wedge pin/bolt that the strut fits into. Remove the pin/bolt before you remove the balljoint from the A-rm, sometimes this will require a prickel fork tool.

I prefer to use the socket for installation and removal but I have a 450# 1/2 inch impact wrench. Make sure the whole ball joint nut is clean and you will not have andy trouble with the socket.

Tie rods are pretty straight forward. Measure your old tie rods end to end and try to match the length. It will put you in the ball park to get to the alignment shop.

Lots of good suggestions. Mine overlap:

Ball joint removal: PB blaster soak; then lotsa heat with a propane torch on the nut; then remove with pipe wrench + cheater bar.

Tie rod: tie rod puller (small 2 arm version of gear puller)

Turbo tie rod install: There's a big nut that secures the turbo tie rod onto the rack and a special thin wrench. I used a pair of channel locks.

You don't need the special tool.

But I use it because it's fast and easier than any other method listed here. A little PB Blaster and that special tool with an impact wrench works great for removal. When using it to torque the nut back on get some help and have an extra pair of hands apply pressure up towards the ball joint and it also works fine.

My prefered method to a T

Does anyone have pictures on how to replace the ball joints? I have my front end removed and sitting on the garage floor and I am trying to figure out what exact steps are required to replace the ball joints and A arm bushings, any pictures / details would help!
thanks.
Dale

Replacing ball joints:

Remove the cotter pin from the bottom of the ball joint, under the A-arm.
Slide off the * shaped washer that the cotter pin was holding on.
Remove the big funny-looking nut with the four square notches in it; that's what you use the special tool, or pipe wrench, or air chisel on.
Remove the nut from the pin that holds the top of the ball joint to the strut.
Pound out the pin; the air chisel makes short work of it, or pound it out with a BFH.

It can take some wiggling or prying to separate the ball joint from the strut once the pin is out, but it's not too bad.

Make sure to replace the pin, as well as the nut and cotter pin, when you put everthing back together.

Not sure about how you'd do the bushings.

--DD

Notes from the field today: frozen tie rod end, broke non-OEM bolt in early strut, removed entire front suspension, replaced rotors + bearings.

FYI - I hung my front brakes on the front anti roll-bar arm with some bungee cords then dropped the entire front suspension...shouldn't have to mess with bleeding the brakes at all.

I have new and powder coated parts to equal a 95% brand new front suspension. Pelican, PMB, and Livermore Performance should be getting an order from me Monday for the final bits.

Tech time Dave (if yer still watching):
Should I order "Desk pad, F 47229 19032" to go with my other new parts ??
I've never heard of this but it is on the diagram...

Does anyone in the NorCal SF East Bay or North Bay have the Ball-Joint socket to lend me?