Hey Guys,

I have a 2.0 that I am trying to put back together on a budgit.

Here is what I am thinking on doing with it.

It now has 96mm dished P/C and a 86A cam.

I really don't want to split the case so I may just put a new set of rods and bearings, get the cylinders honed, put a new set of rings (who sells these?), replace all seals and gaskets.

For the heads, mine are in need of repair so to save that $1,000.00 or so I can get some what I am told VW type IV 2.0 heads that are I guess are buss heads that have new valves, seats and guides for a fraction of the price to have my 2.0 heads reworked.

The heads that were on the engine had the head gaskets installed so I may just buy some cylinder spacers the same thickness and use those and do away with the head gaskets.

I will be using dual dellorto 40 carbs off of my 1.8L.

My question is, with this combo how much H.P. am I leaving on the table and how do you think this combo will perform for street use?

I'm not into racing just a weekend car and sometimes driving to work on nice days.

Will I have any kind of heat problems using the cam that is in it now? I have read a few things about the power band being in the upper RPM range using the 86A cam.

Will this cam be a problem for street use and what would be the max RPM for this combo?

What kind of improvement do you think I would see compared to my stock 1.8L with the dual carbs?

Randy

I don't know about the horsepower, but I'd get a bid on the head work before buying another set.

Mine had dropped a valve seat, tore the heck out of it. I took it to the best shop in town and paid about $300 plus valves & springs to have one checked and the other completely rebuilt.

Also, splitting the case isn't that bad. Really, it's not.

seems to me that replacing the rod bearings without splitting the case is very awkward but i've read threads where people have done it. do you have any idea about how many miles are on the 2.0? when i did one of my motors, i just did a top end rebuild (flame on.....) which is NOT recommended by the knowledgible mechanics (Cap'n etc) that post here, but i was "on a budget" more time wise so that's what i did.

the only flaw i see is the engine sheet metal and now that i reread your thread, that may not be a flaw after all. the 2.0 heads have a different spark plug angle than 1.8's and busses but if you have a 1.8 already, you will use that engine sheet metal with the bus heads.

re: the head gaskets. when you rebuild the top end, pay attention to deck height as anyone should do.

i have no idea about hp or rpm questions.

Properly tuned...probably 130-140hp...

This will really depend upon your heads and exhaust.
Instead of just jumping to buy cylinder base shims, figure out your CR and set it up for 9.5:1. This is still pump gas, but it will provide a bit more HP.
Dished pistons will make it tight, but I think it can be done.

Rich

Forget the Bus heads. IIRC, they will really screw up your compression ratio, since the chamber volume is uite different than the 914 2.0 heads. They also have small valves and not very good ports. You're leaving a lot on the table if you use them.

--DD

What about the 76 2.0 heads that have the air holes next to the intake?

are they as good as the other 2.0 heads but just have the problem of plugging the holes?

How do you go about plugging the holes JB weld?

Randy

not an expert, but I believe you got it 1/2 way correct " JB weld "

Regarding your 2.0 heads, someone posted here a day or two ago that they got a quote of $1100 for Len H to rework his heads, which included crack repairs. I've gathered from this forum that Len is "the guy" to go to.

there are threaded plugs available. i think 10mm valve adjusting screws are the same pitch. another way is to put a BB or ball bearing on the top of the air injector and put a cap on that.

Think about using the 1.8 liter heads.
They are less prone to crack than the 2.0 liter heads...so really a new set of seats and bigger valve will do the trick.

ALOT of old school guys will use the 1.8 liter head...(these are STOCK VW heads from a bus or 411)
The plug placement is not perfect, but when properly setup with the right valves and a little port work they do produce quite a bit of power.

Before everyone steps up to the communal bench engineering podium....
I have had two motors produce 200HP using 1.8 liter heads as the base (original plug location)
Yes they had bigger valves and they were set up on a flow bench.
these are not new techniques...these heads were done in the late 70's and I posted flow charts back a few years ago...

Bottom line...if the 2.0 liter heads are to far gone...you may save some money using the 1.8 liter heads.
130-140 hp can be made using these heads and 2.0 liter valves.

Rich

Not much experience with type 4's, but lots of experience with dyno's and webers. I think 140 would really be pushing it with 40's.

Rich

what were the other aspects of these motors? cylinder size, carbs? stroke?

200 at the flywheel or rear wheels?

I am using dellorto 40 carbs that if I remember correctly they are equal to weber 44 carbs in size.

I do have a set of weber 40 and a set of weber 44 sitting around but I find if I need to change any jetting the dellorto parts are cheaper.

I think I will need to put cylinder base shims on the cylinders as I found one of the pistons sits kind of cocked in the cylinder and sticks out of the cylinder just a bit on one side so I think it would hit the head.

Is this common to have a piston sit cocked in a cylinder?

I wonder if flipping the rod would solve this?

Well, after I finish taking it apart to check the rod bushings and find if I am going to get the new rods. Maybe the new rods will correct this cocked piston.

I remember reading somewhere of someone that got a Raby kit and had a problem with a cocked piston like this.

Randy

Also the bus heads crack more than the others because of the more heat generated
by the extra weight and load from the bus