I was going to try to get away with just using the oil cooler on the engine and stay with a 3.0, but after riding in all the cars at WCR, I think I need a 3.2. So what cooler should I prepare the body for?

Its important that it be a model that uses a finished duct sheild allowing enough room for a spare. I want the front trunk to look right on the inside too?

I'm doing a 3.0 conversion and I will be running a front oil cooler in addition to the engine cooler. I also want my trunk to be a trunk so I'm going to try something different. If you are familiar with early 911's with front mounted coolers they fit in front of the tub spaced away from the tub for good airflow. To do this they have a valance that protrudes away from the body allowing this spacing. I'm going to use a Behr oil cooler off a Mercedes diesel, this is a cooler the MB diesels used and was mounted in front of the radiator. It is typical German craftsmanship ( rugged ) and should work fine. I'm actually going to customize my front valance to look like the early 911's and hope to mount the cooler in that space. If I can do this I lose zero trunk space. Yes the oil cooler is more vulnerable but there are LOTS of 911's out there with this same setup. And I was able to pick up the cooler with OEM fittings for $50.00 Time will tell

i had heard that the inlet sizes on the BEHR mercedes coolers were too small for -12 or -10 size lines.

well, remember - there is no substitute for cubic inches - except learning how to drive ;-)

FluiDyne

BAT Inc has MOCAL coolers for every need.....about 250-300 USD and they are nice units....get at least -12AN fittings. I just put one on BAD TUB...worked great.

I don't think there will be any problem running -10AN or maybe even -12.

AN-10 is *WAY* too small for any /6 application in the scavenge circuit.

you could *maybe* get away with it in a pressure-side application, but then you wouldn't mount a pressure-side cooler up front...

Or you could do what Rich Johnson did, and what I'm likely to do, and mount your external cooler under the rear trunk. It works for Rich in the Texas heat.

Then I'll run -12AN. This cooler will work fine for my application.

When Joe did my car I asked if we could go the route Rich took as well. Mine keeps me cool in the AZ desert heat.

If your not going to race it under the rear trunk is probably fine.

I bought the patrick Setrab kit with the 914gt shrouding b/c I only wanted to deal with it once and it was the factory spot. This was after hearing how under the trunk can sometimes not give enough cooling power... for hot days and DE's.

Anyhow it works really good, I still haven't put the GT bumper in... Probably a little over kill.

I've put a 25 row Mocal in the right rear quarter panel, similar to oil tank, but passenger side. Worked fine with a carb'd 3.0 in TN, probably work better in the NW. If you are doing track or competition driving front mounted is best.

Thanks for the help. I didn't want to cut a hole in the car and didn't ever think of putting one in the back. I assume you leave some space between the trunk floor and the cooler so air can pass thru it, but does the fan suck air or blow it. (OK I'm asking for rude jokes here). Doesn't the hot air from the headers just cook the oil?

I've done them under and above the rear trunk, rear fender, front fender and nose.....by far the nose is best IF you have flow front and back....don't mount it flush to a sheet metal wall. Give it a inch or more.

Believe it or not, repro 75-76 fiberglass front bumpers have a ton of room for a cooler.....

I went back and found this photo that Rich sent me a while back showing his setup.

Rich Lambert just installed mine.
It is a PMS Setrab kit with the 914 GT shrouding, fg front bumper and valance, etc... and I have been driving it in this 100+ Texas heat for the last couple of weeks and it is staying very cool...
Extremely pleased w/ the results!!!
One thing don't waist your money on the PMS floor pan w/ louvers. It doesn't work well and Rich ended up just cutting a hole and covering it w/ mesh.

Click to view attachment

here is another install pic
Click to view attachment

LARGE ...
the bigger, the better. mount it in the front, where it gets *airflow* ...

and mount a thermostat as close to the engine as you can get away with.
Andy

Thermostat....

Pick one that fits


Fluidyne

and forget you ever thought about using -10!

Here's my setup......seems to work really well. I've never had to turn the fans on! I installed the fans just in case I got stuck in traffic jams, but even when stuck in traffic it doesn't get too hot.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...0&hl=cooler

I am using a Earl's 60 row, pn 26012 on my 3.0. It is 18x7" with 12an fittings. It's application rating is for competition vehicles, not some other application. Also bought the pn 1760 mounting bracket. It is front mounted at a slight angle, boxed in and I have a two speed fan housing mounted on the cover. Free flowing air at speed goes through the fan assm. and I exit the hot air out under the car. If oil temp starts to get too high, I can use low or high speed of the fan to pull the air through the cooler. I agree with others, the bigger the better on oil coolers. I had considered using a RX7 cooler, but thought better of it.

Click to view attachmentHere's a pic of what I'm doing. Just finished what I hope will be a decent heater system. I'm using headers, so no heat boxes. What I plan to do is use the hot air from the oil cooler to heat the cabin. I have a hose attached to the exhaust side of the fan and run it to a "T" and feed the stock heater hoses attach in the front trunk. Turn the fan on low or high and pump in the warm air without the oily smell.

I know that it will take a while to warm up the oil enough to get to the cooler, so I have a grill cover/winter front that closes off fresh air and warm up the engine sooner............Theory?............