Help - Search - Members - Calendar
Full Version: My WCR 09 Thread
914World.com > The 914 Forums > 914World Garage
DNHunt
I promised my daughter a trip through the redwoods and down the California coast. My list of projects isn't long, three things really. Install new struts and bleed brakes, rebuild my engine and tune said engine. The problem is I haven't gotten the last 2 things right in the last few tries. I'm allowing plenty of time go around. This build will succeed!

Poor car on jack stands


Click to view attachment


Click to view attachment



So, here I go

Dave
DNHunt
I'm going to try and document my engine build paying attention to everything I can. This will be a 2382, 98 X 78.6.

I started a while ago with case selection. Supposedly 1.7l cases are better EA I guess but I have 2 GA cases. One I sent to get machined and the other I had done locally. Choosing between the 2 I looked at the case split between the main bearings. movement of the case halves will cause a dull gray look and loss of machining marks. This case shows it was moving.

Click to view attachment

I would have preferred it look more like this but, those are hard to find around the center main. It is brighter silver colored and you can see machine marks still.

Click to view attachment

As a quick test you can use a not too worn old bearing to see if the the journal are enlarged. If it slips in and out easily align bore for sure. If it is tight keep checking.

Click to view attachment

Bolt it together and see if you can catch the parting line with a finger nail. If you can you should probably align bore.

Click to view attachment

Finally, if all of that looks pretty good you can measure the bores with a bore gauge or have your machinist do it. This case had an oval shaped bore and had been moving so it got align bored and decked. I'm still hoping the other case is better.

Click to view attachment
DNHunt
Ah, galley plugs. Removing the pressed in factory one helps assure no leaks and gives you access to clean the passages better.

Here's what I use a 5/16 drill to pop through the stock plug. Often they come out on this drill. If not I use a #4 extractor and wiggle and work it backwards. I prep the hole with a 37/64 drill in a drill press and tap with a 3/8 NPT tap.

Click to view attachment

There are 3 in the back of the case,

Click to view attachment

and 2 in the passenger side front.

Click to view attachment

Here it is on the drill press.

Click to view attachment

And here is the tap.

Click to view attachment

Beware of the passenger side back closest to the parting line. THe passage to the rear cam bearing is pretty close to the surface and if the plug sets too deeply into the case oil can be resricted to that bearing icon8.gif

Click to view attachment
DNHunt
My pistons and cylinders arrived so it was time to find out what they were like. The first thing I did was measure stuff. I measured the area that fits into the case register so I could anticipate the diameter of the shims I will need. I measured them at room temp and at 400 degrees. These are Nickies and the aluminum will expand more than the steel shims.

Click to view attachment

I also measured the height to see if they were the same and they are.

Next I checked piston to cylinder clearance. This should be set at the machinist but, I wanted to verify it. First I used the cylinder bore gauge. I would expect with iron cylinders that piston to cylinder clearance would change with heat and the room temp reading I had would be way to tight at operating temps. On the opposite side I would expect ring gaps done at room temp would be fine at operating temps.

Click to view attachment

Then I measured the diameter of the piston 1/2 " from the bottom of the skirt. Nice and tight.

Click to view attachment

I slipped the piston into the cylinder and it slides through slowly on it's own.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

The under side shows it's nice and tight.

Click to view attachment
DNHunt
Gapping rings was next.

Since the cylinders are aluminum and the rings are iron I checked the gap at 400 degrees, 65 degrees and 25 degrees. At running temps the gaps are very near what the ring suppliers suggest. I don't think I'll start it at 20 degrees.

Click to view attachment

That's all for now. The pistons are off so everything can get balanced.

Dave
Todd Enlund
popcorn[1].gif beer3.gif

I'll be watching this thread for sure. Go get 'em, Dave!

I'm hopeful that my car will make '09... but it's not likely.
messix
good to see you working on it. smilie_pokal.gif
dw914er
rock on!!!!!! Hopefully I'll get to see the final result at WCR!!!
DNHunt
QUOTE
good to see you working on it. smilie_pokal.gif


Can't give up.

QUOTE
rock on!!!!!! Hopefully I'll get to see the final result at WCR!!!


Gonna whip this thing dead horse.gif .

Dave
jim_hoyland
QUOTE(DNHunt @ Sep 28 2008, 07:29 AM) *

QUOTE
good to see you working on it. smilie_pokal.gif


Can't give up.

QUOTE
rock on!!!!!! Hopefully I'll get to see the final result at WCR!!!


Gonna whip this thing dead horse.gif .

Dave


Looks good Dave !
Was the WCR 2008 ride too confortable ?
Root_Werks
Keep us posted Dave. I'll be doin' the 4cyl thing for quite a while myself. This should be a very interesting thread for me. smile.gif
Tom
Great pics, Dave. You'll get it this time. Let us know if you need any tool handers or real help.
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.
Invision Power Board © 2001-2024 Invision Power Services, Inc.