That looks pretty good to me Steve!

That appears to be a non-metallic color so you should be able to sand it out and maybe only touch up that area. On all the basecoat clear coats I've used the clear needs to go on within a certain amount of time or it needs to be scuffed and another base layer put on for good adhesion of the clearcoats. I was thinking it was twelve hours max between the base and clearcoat. Maybe you can just scuff it with gray scotchbrite and then clear.

Let it completely setup then sand it with 600. I would persoanlly take it back down to the primer and them reshoot/ blend the area out. A lot of tmes when you get a run like that, you can sand it till it looks fine and even feels fine but there is still a very slight ridge still there that will show when cleared. If you decide to sand it back to the primer just go a bit outside of the run, and feather your sanding out. Reshoot the color and fan it out from the center so it will blend in with the existing color. ( hope that makes sense, I'm not real good at explanicating stuff ) If you want to be doubly safe scuff the whole car and clean it, blend that area out then reshoot the whole car with one coat. This will ensure a good color match, and will also get your chemical bond back before applying the clear.

I would advised if this sits for more than 24 hours running over it with a grey scotch brite pad.

Also for all of you doing your own paint jobs, don't go overboard with your pre-paint final sanding. As I stated before, 600 is great for putting base over. What happens when you go higher is you create a slicker surface with less scratches for the paint to grab hold of. This will result in runs. 600 for base and 600 is fine for clearing over too. Remember your clear will be a thicker material than your base. And the same for single stage paint. Single stage paint jobs really only need 400 then you can apply paint.

i fixed up the runs in the base
and shot three layers of clear
got a few more runs, but it is in the clear
and unfortunately the targa will need to be re cleared due to all sorts of fish eye
i thought i has washed it well but i think it was polishing wheel dust...

Damn runs. Well keep at it Steve. You'll get there soon and it will look amazing. You're doing nice work so far.

the runs in the clear don't bother me as much as the fish eye on the targa but that too is in the clear,
i think my main trouble was actually lighting, most of the runs happened on the side where i have a 500 watt light shining, it is to stark and harsh to see what is going on while spraying, i will be installing a few more flourescents in the room at a later date.

Well, here it goes - my first post as a new member of the club!
I'm excited that my first post can be about how proud I am of my husband. You've done a terrific job on this project, Steve. It's been a big undertaking, but you've done well. I love seeing how excited you get with each coat of paint! Keep up the good work! We're going to have some fabulous drives in your car this summer

Sher , being a proud wife you should know that,

And,


Hi Sher


Jeff H.

There is a accelerator you can add that will make the paint dry faster and that would help stop the sags or runs. Also are you sure you got fisheyes or solvent popping from the top flashing off before the solvent got out? I once cleared a gas tank and moved it out in the sun to see better and I think it got hot and the surface dried too quick and it solvent popped really bad. There is also a fisheye eliminator and I use it in every cup of base or clear. Fisheyes are really a mess to fix.

There is also a panel clear that dries very fast and that keeps bugs and trash out of the paint and also helps eliminate runs. The best way is to have really good light and just put it on really even and wait between coats, I always do the edges first with clear and then the big areas so I am sure I got the edges, Paint doesn't like to be as thick on the edges.

I use a optima gun for base and clear made in germany and it just fogs the paint on.

I can't wait to see the finished product!

i am going to repray the targa and hood...
and i have to buff out a frickin fly, and a few runs
untill then she stays taped up..

So you want to see some pics? Here's afew from yesterday ...

thats hot

Hi Sher! Shar says hi too.

Steve let the clear set up completely, take a NEW unused razor blade, wrap ONE layer of masking tape over each end. hold the razor 90* to the panel, and drag it over top of the run(s) This will scrape the run down to a point. The tape will keep it from going all the way to the good clear surrounding it. As soon as it starts to scrape you can watch the run dissapear as the scraping will become wider with each pass. Once the run is scraped as far as you can easily get it, take a small hard block ( piece of solid wood works well ) cut it down to a small square, and start wet sanding what it left of the run.Constantly wipe it dry, re wet it and check it to see how it looks. You may very well and up breaking through the clear, but that can be wet sanded out, re-cleared and blended in without harming the base. If you aren;t trying to het it A+ perfect you can buff it soon after wet sanding and may have a lkittle bit of a distortion oin the clear, but most will never notice it.

IF there is a ball at the end of the run it gets a bit trickier. If that is the case begin scraping only the ball until it looks like it is even with the run, then proceed. If there is a ball it is now VERY important to let it dry completely, the ball if not dry will tear away from the paint creating a bigger problem.

Sherida, I wanna see all 4 of you in that 9146 this summer!

Paint looks good Steve!!! Guess I get to see it in person soon..

Neat trick. Thanks for sharing!

what grit should i be blocking this clear down with if i am going to re-clear the whole shooting match, this time i am going to use a gun witha bigger orfice.

Wash the car with plain water to remove any grit that is on it, wet sand it with 600, squeegeeing it while you sand to make certain you have a good coat of scratches for the clear to bite to. As you progress along the car, keep washing the prvious areas off to help with the cleanup, this will prevent sanding smudge from drying on the car and being a PITA to clean off later.


What size tip are you using and what size do you plan to go up to? Remember the larger the tip the faster the clear comes out, the faster it comes out the easier it is to run. You will need to speed up your motions and or turn in your trigger adjustment. For me I use a 1.4 for collision and quickies and a 1.3 for the nicer jobs. The 1.3 atomizes ALOT better and lays out slicker. The 1.4 leaves more peel which is actually helpful on a collision job.

This thread is very inspirational ...... !!!

Oh hey, here's that old thread!

Wonder if Steve will chime in with some current pics of his car?

I think this was the 3rd??? AA flare set I installed. Very well done flares.

Dan I think the way you installed the flares was a very good process and Steve also did a very good job on the body work and paint. I think one of the hardest things to do is waiting between coats and not rushing things. Urethanes are hard to work with when you don't have a good paint area. I think it takes 20-30% more material to get the job done without a paint booth. I have decided that if it is not a overall paint job I will be mostly using a panel clear. It dries much faster and that keeps the lint and bugs out a lot better. Darker colors hide trash a lot better but the panels will show waves a lot easier. As paints get more expensive paint booths will seem cheaper.

i just thought it would be good to show a picture of the car completed, a couple of years late but here it is
(i was just referencing this thread and noticed it didnt have a decent pic of thecar completed...that is the reason for the resurection.)

Pic?

Blends in nicely with the background ...

You're lucky you got me when you did Steve. I'm not allowed to touch other peoples cars anymore.

..i think i could do it by myself next time!!!
but you have enuf projects to keep you busy!!! never mind the rest of us needy folks!!

Steve, that really turned out nice!

What a beautiful car. It looks fantastic! The Orange and Blue is very interesting...especially for me as I am a University of Florida alumnus!

Wow, looks great Steve.

Awesome work, being new here I was hopeing to see how the wide fenders where being installed.

has my wheels turning.

Looks great thanks for posting!!

Click to view attachmentClick to view attachmentClick to view attachment



Does anyone have any 'finished' pics of these flares and that lower double angle junction?

EDIT: I found a few representative examples of that junction. Some of which show the bevel being followed through the flare itself. It would be nice to see how it was done on the 916. Some pics of that would be nice.

Does anyone live in Atlanta Georgia, who has access to the 916 ?

George has 2 factory flared cars

I wonder if george would be so kind as to post some pics of that bottom detail ............ I have looked through as many 916 pics as I could find on the web and none show a definitive example of this junction.

Any light anyone can shed on this junction would be very appreciated !!

What I use to do:

Hey Dan are you saying that you would metal finish the car body to that shape to match the AA Flare?

Jim

I did a search for 'rockers' and found a lot of cool pics and ideas as to how to finish that flare/rocker area. The lower body bevel to flare junction did not seem so straight forward at first, but after seeing some of the pics, there was indeed quite a few ways to address that area.

A few guys even brought out the rocker to match the body and hence the flare lines. It looks very clean and complete that way, so that is what I am gonna do with mine. Here are some of the pics from those other threads that I found very appealing.

Armando ,chose to carry the tapered edge along the flare

This how I did mine , this not my car though.
flat across the wheel opening tapering to the angled fender panel.
see were the black spacers are looks right.

Yup, mostly because I'm not a welder or autobody person by profesion. So I opt for the most direct method of making the two pieces match up as best as possible. It's really, really hard to tell there is a transition from the fender to the flare. Especially after you in stall the rockers.

I'm also looking at some of the pictures posted by other members, very nice finish work. Not something I would have the skills to do.

I love this thread... has any one installed the AA steel flares from the group buy??
I would like to see pictures of how they look and here any extra tips besides this thread on the install.

Yeah, I got my flares from the goup buy!! So far I think the best way to do that transition, is to continue the bevel in the same width and angle into the flare ....... then flat all the way to where the original fender was mounted ....... this will allow the rocker to body gap to remain 'constant' and also be able to use the same plastic spacer ....... this will give it some chance of looking like a factory job.

That yellow one above has nice rockers!! Though the 'body to rocker' gap diminishes as it goes into the flare. I think keeping the gap 'constant' will give it a much better look.

Scotty B installed my flares last April. He fits and finishes the flare to the body and then will fit and finish the rocker cover to the car.

That is the way to do it!!! I would not trust a fiberglass rocker to determine proper location of flares (assuming fiberglass is what you will be using). I have seen many variations in fiberglass parts, not to mention most fiberglass parts need touch up to get them 'just right' in either case.