Trying to get the axle nut off the drivers side was even worse! I was lifting the car off the ground with 8' of leverage and the little b*#& would not move. That must have been close to 1000# of pressure to lift the car. it even snapped the bolt that was in the middle of my jack handle... I am worn out but I guess the next manuver will be to have a couple friends over to sit in the trunk while I go for it... I soaked it 5x throughout the week with liquid wrench... thats one tough nut!

If that doesnt do it I guess I will just cut it off. Since I dont need the axle stubs that actually might be easier. I have taken axles out of many 911's and never had anything close to this amount of grief.

Sometimes a high-torque 3/4" impact wrench is the best trick. The impacts seem to break it loose better than just whole lots of torque from extensions. Places like a truck repair shop.

I am guessing one of those 3/4" drive impact guns are pretty expensive.... I think my 1/2 drive was about 350.... Anyone in the bay area have one I could borrow for about 15 min?

heat is your friend. put a torch on it. if you only have a small butane torch leave it on the nut for a complete song on the radio (3-4 min) or time it. most guys think its been long enough when only 30-40 seconds have passed. smack teh nut faces with a hammer while its hot. spit on it. if it sizzles, its ready.

Just did that today on a parts car works every time for me. YMMV

A couple of weeks ago I broke both of my 1/2" breaker bars and the nut is still on!

just did it myself no heat , smack the end with a heavy hammer, protect the stub with alum or brass should come right off, unless you have corrosion problems.

Thanks for the suggestions .... I think I will try to heat it up. I did try smacking the socket with a 5# sledge both to try to turn it and to try to just break the tension.

I believe these have never been off the car as it has been sitting since '92. There is some corrosion on there but not a tremendous amount.

I was really freaking out when I saw the care come off the stand but then I kind of went with it and tried to give it a bounce.... After about 20 or 30 minutes of that I was warn out

I always put the torque arm on the side where it is pushing down on the car as opposed to pushing up. I just used a 1/2 inch socket with a piece of pipe about 4 feet long over the end of the bar to give some leverage. Jump on it a few times, off the nut comes.

I broke a breaker bar on mine as well, heat and an impact gun finally solved for me.

I know it makes some nasty fumes, but I like to heat it up and then hit it with liquid wrench just after I take the torch off. When the nut does come off you will be able to see that in doing this the liquid wrench will have soaked all the way in. If it doesn't work the first time I just keep doing it until it does.

I always break these loose with the all 4 wheels on the ground (if possible). My steps are:

1) jack up car and remove tire
2) remove pin
3) put tire back on and lower car
4a) use socket and LOOONNNGGGGG bar and put my fat butt on it. (old way)
4b) I now use a craftsman 1/2 drive impact. (new way)

if it doesn't come loose then a shot or two of PB blaster let sit for a while, usually 1 hour then come back apply heat (small torch) for about 3 minutes and hit again with the impact. The real fun is once the nut is off hopefully it is not rusted fast in the hub. Lots of heat and a BIG

Something to think about if you have limited access to tools. When you're putting them back on, if you don't have a big torque wrench the newer Craftsman 1/2" breaker bars seem to break somewhere around 300-350 ft lbs. It's kind of like a one time "clicker" feature, with free replacements down at Sears. Your experience may vary, as it probably will when Sears changes suppliers because they're getting lots of broken bars returned.

That is how mine worked.

Larry, you can borrow my "Big Guns" if you come get them. And you can bring it back on Jan 1.

You can rent a 3/4" at PepBoys, Kraigen or most hardware stores!

Hey thanks Mark! I have a McGiver plan that I am going to try next but if that does not work I will take you up on that....

Now dont laugh guys but here is the plan... I am going to wheel my engine hoist over to the car and use it to lift the jack handle that is attached to the break over bar. Once the car is up in the air again I am going to take my fat arse over to the car and bounce on the back bumper... As goofy as it sounds I think its got to work

My legs are so soar today I can barely walk from squating the weight of the car so I figure why not let the hoist do the heavy lifting

I see this ending in a Darwin award, be careful. I would try other means first, and never levitate the car.

You have health insurance, right?

Get in your other car....go to McMarks place...borrow his big gun...get it done safely.

The other option (I dont know your cars current running condition) is to take the car to any local mechanics shop...they all have big 3/4 inch and 1 inch guns..
Bring your socket.
Have them use the gun to loosen the nut right on the ground...then tighten it by hand to 150 and drive home..its fine at 150 for a few miles...geez.
That is safe, and its cheap...
You prep the car, remove the pin, put tire back on.
they just walk out and go wadadadada and its done.
Typically its under 10 bucks for that service.

Rich

LOL! I am only going to let it lift about 1"off of the jack stands. I only have 4 under the back of the car right now so I cant imagine that a 1" drop on the engine mounts and jack points wound create a problem.

I figure that with all the resistance from the nut it will not drop the 1" at the acceleration due to gravity... but even if it does 9.8 ms^2 for 1" is not real significant...

If darwin was at play I would not be a Sr. Engineer and not just b/c I am getting old!

If the arms dont show up at least you will know why

That is not an option as my car has not been started since 1992.... However, I am liking my idea more and more since I have recieved so much concern I now will have to post pic's of my contraption

I know it sounds a little crazy but I have been wrenching on cars for about 25 years and I have never encountered a nut like this so the gauntlet has been thown down and I am not throwing in the towel

Well.... the McGiver trick did not work. Planting my fat a$$ on the back of the bumper with it slightly levatated was just what the craftsman breaker bar needed to say osta la vista baby Fortunately, I did have all those stands under there and I wheeled the jack under there too. So you guys were right.

I was pretty pissed then so I broke out the snap on 1/2 in ratchet and proceeded to break that. That was a real bummer since I have had that for over 20 years. If any of you guys work at a shop where a snap on dealer frequents regularly I have a favor to ask. If I remember right they just swap out the guts... I would really like to have it fixed.

There was ultimate victory today though. I went over to osh and exchanged my breaker bar and gave it a shot.... I did not do the engine hoist thing this time but I did use 2 jack handles bolted together for a total of about 10' of leverage and I put about 500 pounds worth of weight in the trunk... viola the little bastard came loose. I was doing this on my lunch break so I left it at that... at least I know I will have the arm off on sunday

I like the suggestion of taking the pin out and putting the tire back on...then hitting it with a 3/4 impact gun...done. Those beoch's can be really on there. Nice job!

Congrats on getting it off. They can be a bugger sometimes.

Its a VW thing...the beetle axles are the same way but most are at 750 lbs.
the 356 axles and the flywheel nut are the same...

The 10 foot bar with a 3/4 drive breaker bar all properly supported does the trick in most cases.
I bet that most people that have worked on these cars have broken a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar at some point on those same nuts.
I never thought I would need a 3/4 drive anything...but alas I now have one.
I have broken bars, adapters and sockets on these nuts...
Now I am older...I have a dedicated set just for this nut.
Rich

I am surprised no one has mentioned the torque multiplier that bolts to the rotor. I have never tried one on a teener yet but have used it on 356's and vw's. The multiplier has the bolt spacing for VW wide 5 and VW 4 lug. The bolt pattern for 5 lug porsche is on the same circle as the 4 lug so an adapter plate could be made to make it work for the 5 lug cars. Using the multiplier it should only take about 40-50 ft./lbs of torque to remove and install the axle nut. I'll have to look at mine and see about making an adapter plate to see if it would work but I can't see why not if it will work on a 4 lug bug.
Heres a link to the tool I'm talking about:
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?Pr...CC%2DC10%2D7036

I've done the same!!

Wonder if this could be adapted for this purpose.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=93645

While ya all might wanna slam HF, when I've broken their handtools (admittedly though some abusive stupidity) the shopkeeper has always cheerfully exchanged it.

Do you guys put it back on there that tight? I have done many 911's and I just hit it with my 1/2" impact severely and then look to see how close the cotter pin is to being lined up ... then I keep hitting with bursts from the impact till it is lined up and viola... Any other approaches to reassembly? That will be weeks down the road as I am sending the arms off to eric for him to work his magic but I figured I might as well start considering ...