Hey JP... I noticed the metal you cut off where the rear bumper went. maybe we can all learn from your madness

Did you do it for weight savings, engine clearance, or what?

I am thinking of doing the same only keep the bumper on since I drive it on the street. Just take off the metal that does nothing. How about that tow mount. Looks worthless as well.

like this ?

Not quite that extreme. There is just all that metal that hangs down for the valance, which may never go back on my car. I may do something to the sides but I love to look of the Triad under the bumper I know JP has a cage. Does this act as structural material or is it just weight?

No real good reason...it saves 3-4 lbs from the back end and vents hot air from under the car.....mostly, I didn't need it.
It also gives a nice clear exit for cones. My lovely Triad muffler has melted cone guts all over its bottom.

As I've said before, when in search of weight to loss ya gotta be ruthless.

If your muffler tucks up behind the rear bumper as in a normal 914, I'd leave it alone. Your FG bumper might not like it.....didn't need one of those either.

ALL the crap back there is excess weight....muffler shroud, valence, the hanging down bulkhead, tow hook......shittage all.
The back end is the toughest place to loose weight.

Well, I have a street legal car since I drive it to events. I have the metal bumper on there but everything is shaved off now so it is just the pad and bumper. Tits are gone as of today and being shipped to another teener that was them. I will be starting my cutting on random stuff very soon.

See, this is why I continually improve (?) my car.....I'm a moving target for you young whippersnappers with quick hands.

I don't plan on having this car anywhere near you car JP. Like I said, I want to come close. I feel confident but time will tell Can't wait for the match though

Here's a couple pics of what I did to Randal Barrick's car. The trunk floor is cut out as well.

I would suggest that since its a street car you might want to leave the structure...though I am not sure its required...but it may keep the rear trunk valance square...

Drill it out with a 2 inch hole saw, but the leave enough to provide the sheer resistance. It will then melt a fiberglass bumper so beware.

RIch

Humf....I sold my rear FG bumper for around 100 bucks IIRC.
Sold the stock rear valence too.

I saw a car that arrived at hershey a few hours late last year...and it was for sale.
VA plate on it...
I know why he was late.
His bumper and valance..both fiberglass, had melted right around the license plate...he was still smoking when he arrived.
Sad but funny.
He put a big for sale sign attached to the car OVER this area right after he arrived...

It was dripping on the ground...looked cool.

Rich

I cut mine out too...

Nice upskirt shot

Gosh, I need to rethink the rear of Carreror.

Well, I do have the metal bumper and don't plan on doing anything different other than taking everything that adds aeight to it. So if I cut where the valance is up to the trunk deck will I be melting the rubber bumper tops? And if I cut anything out of the trunk area is it assumed I never put the roof in there? If I get everything light enough I could just pop the bumper off when I get to the track and put it on when I leave. Oh, and also, if I cut any of the trunk do I need to start bracing with bars/ cage material?

I didn't find much structural difference when removing the entire trunk floor. The transmission support crossmember was STILL strong enough to support a 200+ lb. person jumping on it.

Mark I thought you were only 185#s?

But what will cutting all this out do to my lights and all? I am guessing if I drive in the rain water will get up there? Plus there is the added heat thing. What should I do to deal with that issue?

I am unclear why you are doing this...but
From an Aero point of view I think when you cut out the trunk floor you create a bit of a pocket for air that may make a problem.
If you cut out a section between the lights and the latch on both sides, that should let the air and heat escape.

Rich

Just looking to shed as much weight as I can without making the car LOOK like a dedicated track car. So maybe the trunk will stay for now... I don't know. I may just search out all brants threads and try to go through everything like he did.

I am even shedding my weight. I ws at 190 but stopped lifting to gain. I started running and was down to 180 until I got sick a few weeks ago. Back to 185 but I think if I keep it up I can get down to 170- 175.

I am working ALL avenues to shed weight while keeping the car looking like a 914. I love this car and I don't want to take away from the outter look to drop weight. I really am going to go for more of a Euro 914 with a few American things. When I paint the car... who knows when that will be... I will remove the front badge. The Porsche stipe will stay on the side. No PORSCHE on the engine lid. 914-6-VW-PORSCHE badge for the rear. Euro signals for front and rear but keep the side makers, no matter how much some hate them. That said, on the inside and under the car I will take everything and add strngth where needed and remoce anything that isn't. This car is really just for fun and autocrossing.

Make sense now Rich?

I've seen a few semi-street cars that have the trunk cut out to some degree. Problem is you get oil, dirt and crap kicked up into the trunk and on the underside of the lid.

Yeah, that is one of the things I am feeling may keep me from cutting the trunk.

You can always cut it and put a very thin aluminum plate in its place just to keep it clean and more aerodymanic.

The cutting on Randals and JP's cars isnt practical for a street car. Great stuff for dedicated AX car. I cut about 15 lbs out of the rear of my track car - very similar to Randals car but a lot uglier.

I'd focus on fiberglass hoods, bumpers, remove backpad, lightweight battery etc.

The cutting has begun

Hey Jon,
This will make getting your motor in/out easier....

Yeah, I took it right to the trunk floor. I also took out the trunk springs, opened up and access panel in the front trunk and got the engine bay area ready to strip for repaint . Next I need to take the four mounts off and extra four metal out and get all that ready to paint. Then clean and paint

cool! I will swing by and drop of a fuel pump. You will need to get a fuel distributor and pressure regulator stuff.

Indeed, Randall's car has no trunk floor. Everything back there that isn't structural has been removed and ground away so that it appears the factory intended it that way. On the bulkhead behind the engine he has an Accusump.

Header left my house on Sunday Jon

Jon, it looks good, but you might want to round those cuts so no one scalps themselves.

There will be a bumper covering them but I have got them fairly smooth.

Thanks Mike. I appreciate it

You still might want to round the corners, if you didn't, so that it doesn't create a stress riser...

> I want to be like JP , Well, kinda


If you're lucky you will also be old & slow someday.

Here is a picture when it was finished (that time at least).

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

What do you mean? SPEAK ENGLISH . Okay, really, I'm slow sometimes. What is a stress riser?


Wow Randal, that looks great. I am planning on keeping the bumper the way it is. I don't want to go overboard until I no longer drive to events.

Yes JP, I will aspire to be old and slow with a very fast car

A stress riser is a weak link where stress will lead to a crack. You've taken a bit of stiffness out of your rear fenders, and if you cut the part out with a angled corner, it will eventually lead to a crack in the corner.

I drew a picture:

Click to view attachment

I understand now Thanks Todd. Yeah. I did that sort of.

It's good to see that some understand basic stuff like this, Todd.
It also works the same way with an outside angle......a sharp corner. This is why I put a .05 radii on the edges of wheel center cutouts, for instance.

On the cut in question I started with a 1.5 inch hole saw....then blended smooth with a sanding device.....a man's gotta have "devices".

BTW, my trunk floor is intact.

I decided to keep the trunk floor. I do have plenty to do in the next wek as it is. I already did some cutting on the rear as pictured and also opened up the panel under the fuel tank. I even took out the rear trunk springs. I need to take out the four mounts now and all the left over four crap that's still on there I don't need anymore. My car was apperantly a 1.8l before the 6 conversion. Then the wire wheel comes out and then paint Then I get to put it all back together. Not really going to take many pictures until the going back together happens.

Don't wanna get this too far off subject, but what Kirkey is that JP? I really like Jon's Sparcos, but I'm thinking that a pair of Kirkeys would be cheaper and lighter.

Using your walker to get out to the garage so you can sit and admire what a great car you built...

Rich

When (if?) it comes to that I'll give the car to my son.

A cheep one.
I got it from MikeyZ some years back and it is their cheepest model.
I would not recommend it for a street car. I had to put more padding directly opposite my backbone (or gain some weight) as it was banging something fierce.

It is light, cheep, strong , and holds you in place. It is not comfortable.
The vinyl cover gets damn hot in the summer.

Kirkey makes better ones.

So I desided what to do for now, I may cut more later

I'm gonna assume you have an overall plan there, Joe. Would you please share?

The more you cut out the lighter it gets. The overall plan is to drive it someday. Ilike what you did for bumper bolts as I am using twice as many as I need.