A friend of mine gave me a set of brake lines that appear to be just long enough to go through the tunnel. I intend to use these to replace the fuel lines.

I pulled my old fuel lines off, and noticed the "bend" in them. I don't want to accidentally break or pinch the flow of the brake lines. So the questions are:

How do you bend the brake lines so they go in the right place?

and...

how do you get these suckers through the grommet from the tunnel into the fuel tank?

Thanks a bunch for your help!

tangerine racing stainless replacement fuel line kit.

yes u can use the 60" lines. cut off the flanges on both ends. You will need to pull the rubber grommet out. It's a bear, maybe ues a couple of screw drivers to do it. You'll need some kind of lubricant to get it back in, like glisterine. Blow out the lines after you cut the flanges off.
tape up the holes so u dont get any crap in there. Mark one for your feed on both ends so you know which is which. They can cross in the tunnel. Feed them through. Get a pipe bender. Use the old brass fittings for a templet to bend the trunk lines. You will not need to bend the back. Wont be enough length anyway. You can bend them in the gas tank front trunk area once they are fed through. Then pull them out enough so u can get the gromet on the work it back into the floor board. Dat's it Good luck

George's reckomendation is easier

I did essentially the same thing tod914 described. Worked liked a charm and more importantly CHEAP.

Long enough... okay, but what size tubing? Most brake lines are 3/16", and that's kinda on the small side for fuel. 3/8" line has four times the flow.

Napa carries brake lines in 60 inch length greater then 3/8.

While brake lines for a 914 are 3/16, brake lines for trucks and such are much larger.

Zach

Good point, 5/16th is the closest you'll get to the 7mm depending on what year you have. Oh nearly forgot, you
can use some 7mm id spliced fuel around the lines inside the tunnel so they dont rattle.

I think I have 1/2" feed and 3/8" or 7/16" return. Which will make the grommet all that more difficult to accommodate.

If I recall, the 60" line was less than $5.00 per length at my local autoparts store. I would get the proper size. 5/16ths and 3/8ths aka 7mm & 9mm.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...e_gas_lines.htm

I did this on my LS1 conversion, though it only requires one feed line through the tunnel (filter/regulator is in front). I retained the flared ends and nuts. NAPA has 45 degree flare to high pressure socketless hose fittings so it worked out great for me since I'm using -6 AN socketless hose in my fuel system. Since you can't feed the flare nut through the rubber grommet up front, I simply slit it and snapped the line in place before inserting it into the bulkhead (it's a pretty stout rubber piece).

Andys

If you do cut off the flares you might want to use some fine sandpaper on the metal tube ends so they aren't so slippery. This will give the rubber lines over them something to grip to so they don't blow off under pressure. A not so fun thing. Fittings are much safer.

I have done this a few times. The lines are 5/16 and 3/8 and are about $5 each. You can get a cheap pipe cutter for $5 and a bender for $5. Remove the grommet (gas tank as well), lube it with vasoline in and out, slightly bend the ends of the tubes to match the original ends (you may not even need a bender), and reassemble. I used a tubing bended because my last setup is solid line from the tank all the way through the engine bay shelf and is bend to fit the contours perfectly. Harbor Freight has the cheapo tools you need I may have pics.

There is a good technical article on this:

INSTALLING STAINLESS STEEL REPLACEMENT FUEL LINES

Here is the link to the 914world technical articles:
Technical Articles
--- bill

The original way I did it was easier, but less eloquent The last time I did it I had a 90* threaded fitting at the fire wall, but it was a bitch to find the parts to do it.

Personally I prefer to just run one length of quality fuel line from one end to the other since it avoids all the fittings and potential leaks. I slip some heat shrink tubing over the line for abrasion protection inside the cab and I use Goodridge heat insulation on all exterior sections. If you ever want to change it it's very easy to pull out.

Click to view attachment

I've used the 3/8 brake line, and I put a small flare on the ends to help keep the hose on.

I wouldn't ever try and make the stainless lines again! I got some stainless line many years ago, and getting the kit from Tangerine is much easier.