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Full Version: New seals or just replace my master Cylinder?
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JRust
Here is the story. I replaced my brake Master Cylinder last year with a 19mm. Worked great but started leaking badly in september. I was a little busy so I took it to a buddies shop to replace the seals & figure out what happened. It was leaking where the feed tubes come in from the top. He had it 2 days & said he was having trouble getting new seals. He told me he swiped some off a used car he had & all was well. I pick it up after hours & he says no charge. I have done some work with him & given him some deals on parts. So I say thanks. I then go on the falling leaf tour. My brake lights were stuck on all day. My pedal got a little on the mushy side as the day progressed.

Fast forward to now. My brake fluid reservoir is empty. I refill it only to have it all leak out on the floor under my car. It takes a bit of sitting before it leaks out. I ordered replacement seals for my current MC. Any tricks to replacing them? I also bought another new 19mm master cylinder just in case. Should I just install the new one & not worry about my old one (which has maybe 1000 miles on it)? Also the brake light being stuck on was an issue before although I fixed it. Now I can't remember how. Seems like I had to pull the plug on the side of the master cylinder with the wires on it. That reset everything & then the light worked as it should.

Once I do either any tricks to reseating the feed tubes properly? Thanks
DBCooper
QUOTE(JRust @ Feb 26 2009, 02:01 PM) *

Here is the story. I replaced my brake Master Cylinder last year with a 19mm. Worked great but started leaking badly in september. I was a little busy so I took it to a buddies shop to replace the seals & figure out what happened. It was leaking where the feed tubes come in from the top. He had it 2 days & said he was having trouble getting new seals. He told me he swiped some off a used car he had & all was well. I pick it up after hours & he says no charge. I have done some work with him & given him some deals on parts. So I say thanks. I then go on the falling leaf tour. My brake lights were stuck on all day. My pedal got a little on the mushy side as the day progressed.

Fast forward to now. My brake fluid reservoir is empty. I refill it only to have it all leak out on the floor under my car. It takes a bit of sitting before it leaks out. I ordered replacement seals for my current MC. Any tricks to replacing them? I also bought another new 19mm master cylinder just in case. Should I just install the new one & not worry about my old one (which has maybe 1000 miles on it)? Also the brake light being stuck on was an issue before although I fixed it. Now I can't remember how. Seems like I had to pull the plug on the side of the master cylinder with the wires on it. That reset everything & then the light worked as it should.

Once I do either any tricks to reseating the feed tubes properly? Thanks


Is it an ATE? If it's aftermarket "Euro" then the supply sealing grommets that come with them don't work. Try putting in some ATE grommets, even old ones. They work.
JRust
QUOTE(DBCooper @ Feb 26 2009, 02:05 PM) *

Is it an ATE? If it's aftermarket "Euro" then the supply sealing grommets that come with them don't work. Try putting in some ATE grommets, even old ones. They work.


Probably aftermarket. I did order replacments from Pelican. Give those a try first?
dr914@autoatlanta.com
I think what the problem is here is that you had a bad installation. It is hard to get the feed lines into the master cylinder and they actually have to be forced into the cylinder while holding the cylinder in one's hand before mounting it against the bulkhead. That is probably why your mechanic said "no charge". Grommets rarely fail and new ones have not seen fail.

QUOTE(JRust @ Feb 26 2009, 03:01 PM) *

Here is the story. I replaced my brake Master Cylinder last year with a 19mm. Worked great but started leaking badly in september. I was a little busy so I took it to a buddies shop to replace the seals & figure out what happened. It was leaking where the feed tubes come in from the top. He had it 2 days & said he was having trouble getting new seals. He told me he swiped some off a used car he had & all was well. I pick it up after hours & he says no charge. I have done some work with him & given him some deals on parts. So I say thanks. I then go on the falling leaf tour. My brake lights were stuck on all day. My pedal got a little on the mushy side as the day progressed.

Fast forward to now. My brake fluid reservoir is empty. I refill it only to have it all leak out on the floor under my car. It takes a bit of sitting before it leaks out. I ordered replacement seals for my current MC. Any tricks to replacing them? I also bought another new 19mm master cylinder just in case. Should I just install the new one & not worry about my old one (which has maybe 1000 miles on it)? Also the brake light being stuck on was an issue before although I fixed it. Now I can't remember how. Seems like I had to pull the plug on the side of the master cylinder with the wires on it. That reset everything & then the light worked as it should.

Once I do either any tricks to reseating the feed tubes properly? Thanks

computers4kids
QUOTE(JRust @ Feb 26 2009, 02:01 PM) *

Now I can't remember how. Seems like I had to pull the plug on the side of the master cylinder with the wires on it. That reset everything & then the light worked as it should.

Excuse Me buddy...don't you remember our blitz on your car before that last WCR slap.gif

It's the switch that is mounted on your pedal board actuated by your brake pedal. We, I mean "me" had to steal one off our white parts car...yours was defective. It may just have moved a bit and the arm is no longer in its correct position.

OK...your're getting old, so I forgive you. laugh.gif
JRust
QUOTE(computers4kids @ Feb 26 2009, 09:02 PM) *

QUOTE(JRust @ Feb 26 2009, 02:01 PM) *

Now I can't remember how. Seems like I had to pull the plug on the side of the master cylinder with the wires on it. That reset everything & then the light worked as it should.

Excuse Me buddy...don't you remember our blitz on your car before that last WCR slap.gif

It's the switch that is mounted on your pedal board actuated by your brake pedal. We, I mean "me" had to steal one off our white parts car...yours was defective. It may just have moved a bit and the arm is no longer in its correct position.

OK...your're getting old, so I forgive you. laugh.gif


I do remember the blitz the days before! I didn't remember that stupid switch though. My memory sucks sad.gif I'll check to see if it's not making that connection again. Hopefully it's not toast too. I didn't get down to work in the garage tonight anyway. Made the mistake of having dinner in my recliner in front of the TV headbang.gif . Always the worst thing for me to sit there when I get home screwy.gif Oh well another night then
SLITS
QUOTE(JRust @ Feb 26 2009, 02:26 PM) *

QUOTE(DBCooper @ Feb 26 2009, 02:05 PM) *

Is it an ATE? If it's aftermarket "Euro" then the supply sealing grommets that come with them don't work. Try putting in some ATE grommets, even old ones. They work.


Probably aftermarket. I did order replacments from Pelican. Give those a try first?


If you paid over $200 for the MC it was ATE .... less was the Uro /Euro. Pelican no longer carries the Uro/Euro at this point.

Uro/Euro doesn't use the washers under the sealing rubbers like the ATE. I threw the new Uro/Euro sealing rubbers away and used used ones off an ATE ... worked like a charm. When seated properly, the tubes will "snap" into place.
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