I'm thinking about building a 2563cc motor in about a year or two. It'll be for street and need heat for early spring & late fall. My question is can you build a set of heatexchangers with larger inside dia. (1-5/8 or 1-3/4 or what ever you think would work better for that size engine)? For a muffler to fit, Traid could most likely fab one of there mufflers to fit with larger exhaust ports.
So what do you think, is it possible?

Ralph

74 2.0

This will stir up some crappola:

Unless you race the engine in the 6k-7k rpm range for more than 20 minutes at a time...OR have a camshaft that has more than .625 lift... you wont need anything larger than a 1.5 inch. Going to a bigger tube size may gain you 3-4 hp on the very top end, but your mid range will suffer (which is where we do 90% of our street driving)


If you have to have bigger (some people have to have it) then I could look into modifying the clamshells we use for the 2.0 HE's. The ends of the clamshells would have to be modified for a larger tube (which I would be interested in persuing) Bending the tube and mounting the tabs on them for the head end would not be a problem. The flanges used for the muffler could be a problem. Making just 4 of them for testing will take a day or so worth of time.

B

Brad, thanks for your reply. I thought with an engine that size would it would be choked up by the stock HE's. Since that's not the case for street use I'll just stick with stock 2.0 HE's.
Again Thanks, Ralph

74 2.0

This is my favorite topic in the world (Bigger is better)

I have Dyno sheets from the Racers Group showing a stock 3.6 liter engine with SSI 1.5 inch HE's and B+B 1 5/8 race headers. The SSI's lost 4 hp between 5800 and 6300 RPM but had 6-8 more lb ft of torque throughout the range. NOW. This was done with a early 911 sport muffler on the SSI's and Phase9 mufflers on the B+B. The B+B's should have had at least 20 more HP (according to their ads) ha ha LOL

Sorry. I love the industry.

B

Brad, so what your saying is that you don’t think that a merged (etc.) is really worth it for a teen that is mostly used for the street? That the 914 equipped with stock (or SSI) exchangers will have more grunt in the bottom end and just lose a bit off the top?

OK then what’s your pick for a muffler? Stock 2 liter? Aftermarket stock 2 liter? Bursch? Triad? Collector with a big flow muffler? I can build a custom 4-2-1 is it worth it?

My engine this year will be a 2056cc with the PEFI, next year I may bump it up to a 2.3 liter.

Ha ha ha ha ha!!! I bet you’ve opened a whole can ‘o’ worms!

I had a BB on my 911.... got tired of having to replace it because it would unzip along the welds after every track event (almost).

I have seen some horrendous fit problems with BB and GHL headers....leaving me wondering which 911 they used to jig the headers..


Why not use these mufflers?

OOPS LOL

these mufflers

Burns and Coast make them, Pegasus also sells a similar muffler.

maybe SSI will tap this market soon?

Mark,

Correct. The only reason we run real headers on our stock 2.0 race cars: we are trying to get the n'th degree out of the engine. On the street... I'm trying to get as much torque to the ground as possible (racing the ricers) If you dont need heat... run a header.

Muffler:

I have to say the Bursch is the best out there for the money. There are others out there that work, but the Bursch is pretty good. I have heard a few Triads and I dont like the sound of them. It reminds me of the glasspack we used to use (that blow out and get louder as time goes on)

SSI will have a 914 2.0 "sport" replacement Stainless muffler in the future. It will have different baffling than the stock one, but offer improved flow.

B

Tim,

SSI still has a way to go with the 911 market before we tackle anything muffler related outside of stock appearing. Your comments about the B+B's and GHL's are echoed on my phones 8-10 times a day. It took JohnD 5 years to build the current tooling for our current line of 911 HE's. Hopefully the next gen we are working on now wont take quite so long since they will utilize 1/2 the amount of tooling that was needed for the current line.


B

I need to get rid of that heavy Danask muffler on my car. It works fine and all, but is heavy (bout 30 lbs)and too quiet

I've wondered if the banana mufler is used as a balance tube and if individual muffs would cost power. I'm not enamored with the super traps, but would really like something lighter.

Flow master's dual in, dual out looks promising.....cheep, too.

JP,

Do the Flowmaster. It works great and sounds great. I wish I could dupe the sound with a banana muffler. My tube car will get this in the next few weeks.

You could gut your Dansk and make it a sport muffler (they are loud)

B

Gut it?....I think it's filled with concrete. ...I'll pass & go to Flowmaster.

I'm currently running a stock Dansk 2-in, 1 out muffler on my 3.2. Am not up to speed on the Flowmaster config (though I hear they sound great), is it a 2 in, 1 out thing like the Dansk banana, or are we talking 2 separate cans, one on each header? If it's two cans, don't you give up something (ie, hp or torque) with no crossover or "H" pipe?

John (ss6)

You can get the flowmaster in either configuration 2 in 1 out, or 2 in 2 out.

Dont know if you guys have seen this how to modify a single out muffler to a twin pipe sport muffler

John (ss6)

The Flowmaster is a large single muffler with the dual in dual out or dual in single out config. They duplicate pretty well what the factory did in the banana muffler by crossing things over inside the muffler.

This is the one we use for dual in dual out: You now have the part number and the measurements. This is typically for a Z28 or TransAm.

This is what it looks like for a B+B header flange.

FYI: I had nothing to do with the pic below. I know of several companies that sell this setup for big money and slap a plate over the Flowmaster name.

B