hey chris why don't you post some pics of the 911 rear brake modification....i think many guys will

yes please

Here's a pic of the parts we made.
They are installed and working, but I haven't taken any more pics yet.

nice!

Here are a couple of pics of the installation:

How much for a pair?

What a simple, yet elegant solution. Great job

Rich

$99, includes shipping and handling.

The hardest part of installation is repositioning the bracket for the stock cable on the trailing arm.
You can still see in the bottom picture where it was cut off from its original location.

it sure is a great idea !!.. hey we should have a group buy...100. even and we get a CFR racing sticker for our hood lids......

Yeah I would tell ya to throw them on my ride but I just want to drive. I don't need brakes.

The only time you don't need brakes is when you are on jackstands!

Excellent solution Chris.

Could/should the kit include a 40mm wide 90 degree spreader piece that could be welded to the arm? The shoes need to rest on a spreader right?

Click to view attachment

The stock spreader is already in there.

No. The stock spreader is built into the 911 control arm. Not at a place where I can get a picture.. sorry. Those will self destruct if the brake is applied with the car in motion.

Maybe spreader isn't the right word to use. You may be thinking of the star adjuster. This handbrake incorporates a 40mm piece of steel or aluminum that is actually cast into the 911 arm. It comes in at a 90deg from the backing plate and fits where I drew the bottom green lines and is more of a stand-off for the shoes to pivot on. Without it, the force of the moving car would rip the shoes off the backing plate.

I'll try to get some pics for you but I'll be some others could beat me to it.

I'm curious if anyone has tested this theory, I use mine for a parking brake but
would like to hear stories of those who tried using it as an emergency brake without the backing plate as you describe and the damage caused by it.

Looking over your Ebrake thread again Eric I see that you didnt weld the 40mm rest spacer to the control arm but to the backing plate as i did. Do you feel it is neccessary to weld it to the control arm now...

E,

This is the rest of the stuff that came from Easy with the Brake set up from a steel 911 trailing arm from an early 911.

E is doing an e brake for my blue V8 car.

Bob
Click to view attachment

I understand Eric.
I have a pair of 911 aluminum trailing arms at the shop that don't have the parking brake parts and I have an early 911 chassis behind my house that still has the entire parking brake assy's installed. I'll take a closer look.
This car already had the brake assy's installed in the rotors when it came to us. We only made and installed the pull mechanisms.

Chappy,

I think the piece welded to the backing plate is sufficient for a parking brake. That's what I did to my car as well. I fashioned that off Timo's mod. After seen a mod WesV did I like that better. It could now be used as intended as a emergency brake as well.

Chris, search for Wes's thread or maybe he could chime in with a pic. If you look at the aluminum arm at the shop you'll see the stand-off protruding up into the area where the assembly sits.

This setup would probably be some what ok just for parking . There is no mechanisim for the back spreader to work , only the front side where the nut threads on the shaft and gets cotter pinned . Apply the brake and try to move the car with it applied and it will probably twist up what is there . The rest block is what keeps the assembly from rotating with the disc hub. Even American cars with drum brakes have a sturdy rest stop / anchor pin that the shoes reat agaist and the springs attach to . Fellas think about it , as I am sure most all of you have done brakes on American cars also , this rest stop is not unique to Porshes , as the parking / emergency brake setup uses the mechanical drum brake setup that the DOT requires on all street driven vehicles , thats one of the reasons for installing mechanical emergency brakes , they're there to possibly save lives .
Yall smoke it over , and revisit what you want versus what you need .
I'm going the 928 e brake route which Chris's cable idea would work great if it had a clevis at the wheel side to fit the spreader mechanisim.

Jaxdream

I may simply add another plate on the arm to support the backing plate 40mm spacer

This will help the guys already using the straight pull 911 stuff with the studs on the brake pads. On this setup as it is you are only using 1/2 of the original design and I think it will push the shoes crooked and they will bind on the backing plate but if it's adjusted close it probably will work. I think a better solution is the later 944 angle pull that is on other cars as well, boxter included. They both will require a welded on 40mm support. You are repositioning the 914 emer. brake cable anchor anyway on both. If you haven't done one yet check out the angle pull design first. I think you will see it's a better later design. Carrying it one step further I am moving the handle to the center and using the two piece 944 cable. A similiar extension is still needed if you stay with the 914 handle but it's really just a link type extension. I am also considering putting the cable mech. on top of the control arm.

Wes has done about as much as can be done with the straight pull design.

If you got the straight pull design it does have the only backing plate that is being used and the stud type shoes can still be used just convert to the angle pull spreader. You still gotta have the 40mm support though.

Chris;

The 40mm "spreader" serves a major purpose.

It is a "stop" as the shoes try to rotate within the drum, when the brake is applied.

It wouldn't surprise me if some people are getting away without it, but I'd hate to see what would happen if you grabed the emergency brake while in motion.

Here is a photo of the bracket I made up;



The nut and threaded section you see in the center is just a piece of threaded rod holding everything together while I was working on it.

Wes

Sorry to dig up an old post...

Are the cables replaceable? Or do you have to cut off the bendy part and weld on a whole new piece if one of the cables or cable-ends fails?

Geoff

The assembly must be replaced as a unit.
I doubt the ends will ever fail. We triple crimp them to a pretty robust cable. Eventually the cable or steel tube will wear out. I'm not sure which will go first but it should be quite a few years down the road. The motion range is fairly short.
I had thought of lining them with teflon tubing to improve longevity but Ed reminded me of what will happen to the teflon when the tube is being welded to the trailing arm. D'oh.

Include a can of Stoners mold release with every sale...

It's supposed to be applied to metal molds to prevent the just injected plastic molded parts from sticking to the mold and to help them release....

I've used it for every prototype medical device I've ever built and nothing comes close to working as well as a lube as this stuff. Works great on metals and plastics. The lubed coating is very thin to prevent dimensional changes in the parts, is heat resistant, dries in an instant, and lubes for a long time. It's not a grease so dirt won't stick and build up.

That being said, I'd apply it after the welding.

Heck, if you don't include it in your kit, buy a can anyway as I'm sure you will find a bunch of uses for it.

And with a name like Stoners, it's got to be good!!!!

They also sell the best window cleaner I've ever found. For a bunch of Stoners, they sure know their chemicals....

Ken