So I've overcome most of my sway bar hurdles. Turned down stock bushings to fit the odd ball sized droplink "hoop". Made "press fit" reducers for the heim joint out of metal fuel line (kinda proud of that one), spacers made from the "old" metal sleeves to center the heim joint, and now it's install time.

The bar is in, but I'm wondering (since I have the option) what I should shoot for as far as orientation of the arm and droplinks when the car is at rest. I would guess I want the arm perpendicular to the ground, but thought I'd ask.

-Aaron

Good grief... I'll shoot some at lunch.

Ya' walked right into that one. LOL


We love to see other peoples injenuity, not just hear about it.


I want to see it too.

The "grey" color in the center of the joint is the metal brake/fuel line that I cut down to fit. It's a perfect interference fit. Just a light touch with a nylon mallet.

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The bushings are standard Weltmeister Droplink replacements that have the radius ground down to fit the opening and then the overall width of the shoulder(s) ground down to fit the arm. I may want to take it down even further so I'm rubbing the bushing less on the arms.

Click to view attachment

Here are the spacers made out of the old metal inserts. The overall width is close to that of the insert (or what it originally was).

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Droplink installed.

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View from above showing the spacers at work.

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One thing I'm tempted to change is to make the sleeve act as the spacer too. That way if I ever have to remove it I don't have to fiddle with the small, steel spacers.

So now can I get some advice???

Yes. It looks like the top part is going to rub on the struts ...
Andy

Rotate that bolt on the top it MITE gain you enough space..so it wont rub as it already was ...JMO

Will do. FWIW that is in full droop and is not touching. The arm will move away from the strut once it's on all fours.

Any opinions on geometry?

It appears from the pix that you "could" over tight`n that nut and bolt on the top and would cause it to actualy bind? try a nylock nut and tighten just pass the end of the bolt.You want that part to move freely

Parallel to the ground under load so it can freely move both ways.

Does the top part have multiple holes to move the droplink?
Andy

Yes. 4 holes. It's in the 3rd (one from all the way in - towards the bar).

That will put more wieght on the front ..more stable at high speed..mine slides and i like it more toward the front !makes for what i call happy steering and the car rotate`s nice ...you will have to play with it to get the feel you like ..but i bet you move it out to the end when its all said and done.....good luck and nice work

"In" effectively stiffens the bar and "out" (due to leverage) softens it. Correct? I was told by several sources that you want all the front bar you can get in these cars!

Not true ...
How did the car handle before you installed the bar?

Just adding the bar and setting it to full soft will give you more grip in the front. So, if your car was slightly understeering in corners (front end pushing), this would be a good point to start.

If your car was oversteering (rear end lose), start with a stiffer setting.

Full soft is towards the front of the car, full stiff is towards the rear of the car.
Andy

It's on! I'm disappointed that none of you caught that It would be in bind the way I was mounting the droplinks. The heim joint needs to be at the top!

The car handled OK. with the stock bar and 21mm torsion bars. Rears are 180lb springs. I had to remove the rear bar to even begin to get the front top push.

So put the rear bar back on and start the front bar at full stiff ...
Andy