Here is my Subaru Turbo exhaust. I think I finally got TIG welding down pat. Have to be comfortable when welding.....About another month or so and this baby is running....19 LBS boost!

SO guys, I have a renegade subaru engine cradle and I promised that i wouldnt show it, but how do I show my work off on this site without doing that? Basically its their engine mount and everthing else is mine.....Its right around all my work!


Here is my Heat Exchanger for my Air/water intercooler. I used a standard air/air intercooler (about half the price for a huge one) and i am chopping the sides welding them up, putting 1/2 flared fitting on each side, then i will have a 26x6x2.5 aluminum heat exchanger right out front....Front not near done yet

You could photo shop it out or paint it camo so we can't see it!

Or we could just not look. :wink:

You know what? that is so stupid, how many ways can you bend tubing, hold a suby motor and make it bolt in. Besides I really think most suby transplants from here on out will be using suby trannys for their reliability and better gearing. Try buying a lsd for 400.00 for a 901. You can get high strength shafts, dog box or syncros or a mixture. Even in stock configuration, if it were to equal the best built 901 it still would be a way newer design with a good aftermarket support. Now if subaru would only make a sequential tranny.

A air to air ic has a different internal core to flow air as unrestricted as possible (bigger tubes) where a water radiator needs to slow the water down to transfer the heat sufficently before it goes to the heat exchanger. I also think you will have too much airflow restriction in front of your radiator.

Your tigging is looking good but you might want to add a extra piece of tubing to the flange to let the wastegate flow better.

It looks like you lowered your turbo a lot, will it drain to the pan ok?

Creative Photo taking. Nope TURBO still way up high, check out the photo of the turbo drain still way above like stock....

The air/air intercooler will have 1/2 inch lines so water will slow way down in the cooler itself since it was designed to be 2 inch air flowing through it......

As for position i debated putting it right just below the lower hortizontal sheet metal and cutting my LOW valance to fit around it since its low anyways, that way the radiator would have unrestricted flow, and the heat exchanger flow would go underneath the car.....it would just look so much better cosmetically if i could hide in just before the radiator. I did enlarge my hole to max height and width. Basically its 32 inches across by 12 inches high....Thats huge!!

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Renegade Makes a superior Product....Love that i didnt have to fab that up. !!

okay heres some pics of the air coming in up front, obviously not finished in any way...but hole width /height is staying.

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Your kidding, right.

By the way, nice work.

No joke. Everybody who wants to look underneath a Rennegade car has to sign a non-disclosure agreement, so at car shows there are little lines that form, people doing the paperwork...

That can't be true I found these online.
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As i am not very well versed on Turbos, i have a question...

Putting the intercooler on the front of a mid engine car seems like you would have incredibly long pipe runs... and most intercooler pipes i have seen attempt to have less bends and run shorter distances... The 914 turbos i have seen seem to mount the intercooler either in the engine bay on top of the engine, or in the rear trunk with ducting pulling air down to it. Just curious...

Just wait until I get to the mechanical part of my build, I designed the damn thing so I have no problem plastering photos of it all over my build thread...
Your project is really coming together Budman, I have played around with the idea of an A/W intercooler and will be interested to see how yours turns out.

My intercooler run is going to be exactly 1 foot from the turbo into the Water/Air Intercooler and 1.5 back to the intake from the intercooler. The intercooler up front is and air/air that is going to be modified with 1/2 inch tubing in and out with a water pump pushing the water to/from the engine bay just like the renegade radiator, but i keep it serparate because the heat exchanger will be closer to ambient temperature unlike the engine which is 195 or 205 with the A/C on full blast. Basically its just a heat exchanger for the water/air intercooler in the engine bay. Water/air intercoolers have greater heat exchange properties than air/air ones, and especially with my gigantic heat exchanger up front. Ex. The new mustang has a heat exchanger 24x7 i think and its only an inch wide for its supercharger. Mine is 26x7x2.5 inches and aluminum also. SO plenty for this lower horsepower engine.

Give me another few weeks and i should have the water intercooler plumbing in.

looking good

Your project is really coming along. Great job!

I know what you mean about secrecy and Renegade. I visited his shop in Vegas a couple of months ago and was amazed at some of the projects in his shop, but he holds his cards pretty close to his vest. He is also pretty proud of his work and insistent that he has the optimal solution, basically poo-pooing some of my ideas. But I really enjoyed the tour.

Did you consider reversing your intake manifold? See http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...83031&st=60 for details on what I'm doing for my Suby-powered 914...

Geoff

First time I've seen the rh engine mount but I had imagined a lot from other glimpses on other threads. It looks like the motor and tranny are tilted up and forward in the front to give the stock pan more ground clearance. If that is the case then the tranny is no longer level it seems. I have tried unlevel trannys in the past and it didn't work very well long term. Usually the front bearing gets too dry and if you don't lower the lube level it will usually leak in the rear. Course it's not a 901 so maybe there is no seals at the very rear to leak, just the speedo.

Bigkat you are soooo bad

Well i am keeping A/C because i live in Arizona and its HOT here. So reversing the intake would mean losing my Compressor. I tried it and it works but no compressor. Check out this pic. This is a MOD to that same exact intake, it points straight up. Worked great on my last NA conversion. I still have it. Its unbelievable how much room i had underneath the intake when i MOdded it. Yeah keep me informed of your progress too......

I believe that i do NOT have the best solution, i am always open to input. Renegade does have that attitude though, which in my opinion kinda sucks. Someones engineering might be better, thats always a possibility

Anyone have a LOW valance like this that i can hack up? I need to "blend" it around my heat exchanger in front. Think i am going below the opening in front. I want Ice cold A/C.

Maybe someone had a nice one and hit a curb so its cracked in the middle. I'll take it!

I have 916 front and rear bumpers that I will try to make look decent. Also if you ever go to the phase 2 style heads with the different intake port bolt pattern the 06 2.5i intake is a higher/bigger intake. I'm going to get one and see how it fits rotated.

We Have FINAL Heat Exchanger up front Position. That should definately allow a ton of air to radiator. I split it. Half of the heat exchanger air goes through the radiator and half goes underneath the car. (that way i wont bump it on curbs either)

Woo hoo! Thats one thats been in my brain forever to how it would look. Now to tear it down and start welding reinforcements.

Anyone have a Billet 350Z grill?

Okay Air/air intercooler Converted to Heat exchanger DONE! Whew, i might be good at steel Tig welding, but man i need more practice on Aluminum. (not good yet)

Mounted

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Subaru Fuel Rail vs.....

My Fuel Rail...much Simpler and serviceable if needed. Bigger diameter lines also for more flow if needed.

Not sure what you are planning on the filters. The plastic won't handle 45psi. Also the deal would be to run the fuel rails in parallel so one side doesn't see more volume/pressure than the other. Parallel feed to each rail then the rails go back together to the fuel pressure regulator then the return from the regulator to the tank or a surge tank then the tank. Hose clamps are a little shakey with high pressure fuel lines.

Oh my God you posted a photograph of the Renegade cradle! The Police are on their way! The Four Horsemen of the apocalypse have been released and a scourge of locusts are descending on your garage as we speak!

But seriously, keep up the good work...

Budman,

Outstanding work as usual!

the plastic filter is before the fuel pump (low pressure) and the metal one after the fuel pump. I know about running the fuel lines in parallel, but this is definately the cheaper way. I am running it the same way as stock because the stock fuel regulator actually slides into fuel injector rail and cant be used in that parallel setup without buying a whole new fuel regulator. But an easy change in the future since i have all an6 fittings now.

When will all of us AZ folks get to see this thing in person??

About 3 weeks. Got a little delayed, because i was rebuilding a jetski motor. Where in scottsdale are you located? I am down here off of Germann and Alma School next to the 101

Cactus & 101

yeah, yeah

Count me in on the unveiling.....

New Revolutions!!

THANKYOU JohnC!!!

They look great!
What size are they and what tires did you mount?

Nate

they are 205/45/17's

Just converted the coils over to the 2005 version with the ignitors built into them. I had one bad coil on startup, but wow did it run smooth with 3 cylinders only firing! I got a deal on 4 almost new ones for $80 bucks!

Hey budman,
I am doing a EJ25 N/A conversion right now and I was just wondering what you did with the tube coming out of the IAC valve?

Also, sweet fuel rail setup... how much did that cost you? Sources?

-Peter

also what year engine is that?

i think its a 2002 subaru JDM 2.0 turbo, fuel rail is from outfrontmotorsports.com cheap at $90 total! That idle control valve goes directly to air intake for your N/A conversion. I do need help myself knowing what the cold idle and warm idle settings are for that valve (for my turbo engine.) I just found a good subaru dyno its called goodspeedmotorsports here in tempe,az. I'll ask them tomorrow about the settings for the idle valve and shoot them back to you....

woohoo! new ignitor coils are in and that solved my dead cylinder problem!

Thanks...I havent setup the rest of the intake yet, thats why i didnt know! Also, do i have to run the Mass air flow meter in the intake as well? sorry to hijac

depends which computer your running. I am running aftermarket stand alone STORM link ecu so no mass air flow, all map pressure. You'd be fine with that, but i think if you run stock ecu you need the mass air flow

Hey, what swayed your decision toward the Storm ECU? Outfront seems to have a preference toward the Stinger EMS.

That's about the last part I need to get mine running. The motor will me going in the first week in july.

Outfront in my opinion is AWESOME for parts, but i use a guy out here in az for my tuning and computer. he builds $90k sandrails with turbo subarus all day and he knows his stuff. The Link Ecu Storm G4 is soo nice. When my coil wasnt working, i actually had the ability to take out the spark plugs and ground them to the intake and hit a key on my laptop and it will fire them individually (whichever you pick to test) with lower than normal voltage so you can check to see if spark is going.

I had a g1 first generation LINK ECU (no name) and it was great too, but this one has a little more toys to play with on the laptop OHHH also it has a self tune mode, that i havent quite used yet, but when my wideband O2 SENSOR and controller makes it here next week i will try it.

Almost done, just waiting on intercooler and front valance parts. Here is the cable shift underneath.

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