So, I's got oil leaks like crazy. I'll follow one Club members idea and call a local Hose manufacturer for the line from oil tank filler to top of engine. I think I'll also go with the rubber type valve cover gaskets. Aside from those two areas, where else should I start looking? Any tips on this subject mater?

Next is heat. I like to drive sans top as much as possable. Here in New England, that means having some form of heat. I think I can get the passenger side HE hooked up pretty easily. My mechanic used a large braded line from the oil tank to the motor instead of the factory bent steel line when the Rich Johnson mount was installed. Any ideas on why the stock heating system won't fit as he told me?

Thanks all,

Lets see, having only owned four cylinders I would say No, no no and no....

I would go for a nice drive to Stow and see Mark, Lenny's son...he will set you straight....probably has the right parts in the trailer out back too.

Rich

i use the Turbo valve covers, you'll need to clearance the fins for a /6. i use the current production "silicone" gaskets. no leaks there any more. i think i do still have a leak at the oil tank fitting - not sure if the /6 even has that fitting. i have the usual leak at the #8 main bearing O-ring which i'll try to help by replacing the crankshaft pulley oil seal while i have the pulley off - best i can do there.

for a time i had a BIG leak and it turned out to be the fittings on one of the cam oil lines. it was easy to see (and get to) both on my car so i could easily isolate it to one side, but if i were doing this job on a /6 i might replace 'em both and know it won't be an issue any more. when i bought the oil line from Pelican the copper sealing rings they sold in the came little area DID NOT fit the cam oil line banjo bolt. make sure you buy those (4 per oil line unless you're uprating the restrictor fitting too, in which case you need 5 - nevermind that the restrictor is pictured with the seal rings you need, they're not included...)

other 'standard' leak places: oil return tubes, dizzy drive shaft O-ring, oil cooler seals, injection pump supply and drainback lines...

Hey Rich H,
Can you translate that into Redneck English please. I think I know about a few of the items you mentioned, but some sub-titles would be nice.

Rich T, Who's that again?

i'll try, not sure which term you're having trouble with tho...

the Turbo (finned) valve covers are much more rigid and won't warp (and leak) like stockers. the fins might help cooling a bit, doubt it's significant. but the fins will interfere with the trailing arm makiing them impossible to install unless you modify something. i think you need to mill or belt-sand about 1/4" off the fins. i have got my VC gasket sets from Paragon, i'm pretty sure everybody's got 'em. i replaqced my intake VC's too (the actual cover...) at astonishing cost - they've recently gone up A LOT - significantly more than the torbo exhaust VC's for no reason i can imagine...

on engines as old as ours the cam oil lines can experience separation of the rubber from the metal ferrule fittings. they're not expensive. while you're replacing oil lines, consider replacing the adapter fitting (thing the oil line banjo bolt screws into) with the later Turbo part - restricts a bit of oil from the cam area and helps improve oil pressure. i'll have to post the specific part numbers when i'm back closer to my references...

the rest i figure you've previously encountered (lemme know otherwise). oh - your car doesn't have injection pump oil supply or drainback fittings :-) ...

othjer standard 911 leak places - oil pressure sensor, oil temp sender, thermostat, breather fitting. and check the breather from the oil tank to the air cleaner - if that's loose, the oil that's supposed to hide in your air cleaner element will leak out instead ...