was trying to time my engine (2.0 weber 40's), had already set the dwell (45.5), when suddenly it stalled. seems i turned the dizzy to much. now i can't get it to fire, has spark,fuel, reset the points, put the engine @ #1 cyl tdc and put the dizzy in again with the rotor facing approx 11 oclock. am i right that the firing order 1432 starts withb the #1 cyl wire @ 1 oclock and follows clockwise? or is it 11 oclock, if so, what did i do wrong now.
thanks
Full Version: had it running...lost it
QUOTE(nycchef @ Jun 15 2009, 02:10 PM) 
was trying to time my engine (2.0 weber 40's), had already set the dwell (45.5), when suddenly it stalled. seems i turned the dizzy to much. now i can't get it to fire, has spark,fuel, reset the points, put the engine @ #1 cyl tdc and put the dizzy in again with the rotor facing approx 11 oclock. am i right that the firing order 1432 starts withb the #1 cyl wire @ 1 oclock and follows clockwise? or is it 11 oclock, if so, what did i do wrong now.
thanks
Rich, 1 4 3 2 is correct, fwiw my #1 is at 1PM - set the gap with dizzy in, not out - and try again
Rich,
As I cannot be sure that your dist drive is set correct, can you identify where TDC is on the motor?
If you can do that, get the dist to mostly be lined up with the #1 plug wire and you should be able to start the car.
They will start with quite a bit of the timing being off, so this sort of "eye balling" of the timing will be sufficient to get it running enough to actually time it.
Now, that being said, it seems funny that if you got it running that you wouldn't be able to start it again. I am sure you twisted the dist back to where you had it started before.
I'd go through the normal diagnostics of engine life (spark, fuel, etc.) before you go looking into your timing. (Also check that you didn't pull the dist out and disingage it from the drive (check if you can turn the rotor))
BTW an inductive timing light is a very quick way to see if you have a spark as it will light when a high current burst is sent down the wire.
Good luck
As I cannot be sure that your dist drive is set correct, can you identify where TDC is on the motor?
If you can do that, get the dist to mostly be lined up with the #1 plug wire and you should be able to start the car.
They will start with quite a bit of the timing being off, so this sort of "eye balling" of the timing will be sufficient to get it running enough to actually time it.
Now, that being said, it seems funny that if you got it running that you wouldn't be able to start it again. I am sure you twisted the dist back to where you had it started before.
I'd go through the normal diagnostics of engine life (spark, fuel, etc.) before you go looking into your timing. (Also check that you didn't pull the dist out and disingage it from the drive (check if you can turn the rotor))
BTW an inductive timing light is a very quick way to see if you have a spark as it will light when a high current burst is sent down the wire.
Good luck
QUOTE(Cupomeat @ Jun 15 2009, 01:29 PM)
Rich,
As I cannot be sure that your dist drive is set correct, can you identify where TDC is on the motor?
If you can do that, get the dist to mostly be lined up with the #1 plug wire and you should be able to start the car.
They will start with quite a bit of the timing being off, so this sort of "eye balling" of the timing will be sufficient to get it running enough to actually time it.
Now, that being said, it seems funny that if you got it running that you wouldn't be able to start it again. I am sure you twisted the dist back to where you had it started before.
I'd go through the normal diagnostics of engine life (spark, fuel, etc.) before you go looking into your timing. (Also check that you didn't pull the dist out and disingage it from the drive (check if you can turn the rotor))
BTW an inductive timing light is a very quick way to see if you have a spark as it will light when a high current burst is sent down the wire.
Good luck
i thought the rotor was to face approx 11 oclock i will set it to face 1 oclock and see what happens
Depends on the distributor if its the original dizzy, then yea, 11 o'clock may be correct(im not sure about that), but we just replaced the distributor on my 1.7L with a brand new one and TDC on the new dizzy was nowhere near the old one.
do what cupomeat mentioned, thats how we got my car firing after the new dizzy was put in. find tdc on the fan, make sure its TDC on the combustion cycle, if you find TDC on the exhuast cycle, it won't ever fire...we did that one on accident.
do what cupomeat mentioned, thats how we got my car firing after the new dizzy was put in. find tdc on the fan, make sure its TDC on the combustion cycle, if you find TDC on the exhuast cycle, it won't ever fire...we did that one on accident.
QUOTE(turnaround89 @ Jun 15 2009, 02:04 PM)
Depends on the distributor if its the original dizzy, then yea, 11 o'clock may be correct(im not sure about that), but we just replaced the distributor on my 1.7L with a brand new one and TDC on the new dizzy was nowhere near the old one.
do what cupomeat mentioned, thats how we got my car firing after the new dizzy was put in. find tdc on the fan, make sure its TDC on the combustion cycle, if you find TDC on the exhuast cycle, it won't ever fire...we did that one on accident.
o.ki got it. i could have sworn i had it hooked up at the 11 oclock set up. but suprise i was wrong. so it,s running again, got the dwell up to 47.7, and kinda timed it. the timing mark shows about an inch to the drivers side @ 3200 rpm's or so and jumps a little, but i'll fix that when i get
an extra pair of hands.
new problem though the pass side forward stack on the carbs is spitting fuel. any carb guys out there know how to tune and balance wewber 40,s, i have a syncrometer, pass side stacks both at 10, driver side forward 3, rear 6
it never ends ...does it
QUOTE(nycchef @ Jun 15 2009, 06:59 PM)
QUOTE(turnaround89 @ Jun 15 2009, 02:04 PM)
Depends on the distributor if its the original dizzy, then yea, 11 o'clock may be correct(im not sure about that), but we just replaced the distributor on my 1.7L with a brand new one and TDC on the new dizzy was nowhere near the old one.
do what cupomeat mentioned, thats how we got my car firing after the new dizzy was put in. find tdc on the fan, make sure its TDC on the combustion cycle, if you find TDC on the exhuast cycle, it won't ever fire...we did that one on accident.
o.ki got it. i could have sworn i had it hooked up at the 11 oclock set up. but suprise i was wrong. so it,s running again, got the dwell up to 47.7, and kinda timed it. the timing mark shows about an inch to the drivers side @ 3200 rpm's or so and jumps a little, but i'll fix that when i get
an extra pair of hands.
new problem though the pass side forward stack on the carbs is spitting fuel. any carb guys out there know how to tune and balance wewber 40,s, i have a syncrometer, pass side stacks both at 10, driver side forward 3, rear 6
it never ends ...does it
I am scared to tell you how.
Remove drop links.
Sync both carbs at idle.
Should be the same, use idle adjustment screws to make them the same.
Keep idle at around 900.
(I dont want to get you into air bypass screws)
If you can do that..hook up the drop links again.
now, measure with the snyc tool again.
you need to shorten or lengthen the drop links tomake sure the carbs match.
Each time you need to flip the throttle...let it settle at idle, then measure.
Rich
QUOTE(nycchef @ Jun 15 2009, 03:59 PM)
QUOTE(turnaround89 @ Jun 15 2009, 02:04 PM)
Depends on the distributor if its the original dizzy, then yea, 11 o'clock may be correct(im not sure about that), but we just replaced the distributor on my 1.7L with a brand new one and TDC on the new dizzy was nowhere near the old one.
do what cupomeat mentioned, thats how we got my car firing after the new dizzy was put in. find tdc on the fan, make sure its TDC on the combustion cycle, if you find TDC on the exhuast cycle, it won't ever fire...we did that one on accident.
o.ki got it. i could have sworn i had it hooked up at the 11 oclock set up. but suprise i was wrong. so it,s running again, got the dwell up to 47.7, and kinda timed it. the timing mark shows about an inch to the drivers side @ 3200 rpm's or so and jumps a little, but i'll fix that when i get
an extra pair of hands.
new problem though the pass side forward stack on the carbs is spitting fuel. any carb guys out there know how to tune and balance wewber 40,s, i have a syncrometer, pass side stacks both at 10, driver side forward 3, rear 6
it never ends ...does it
Rich, when does it spit? Do you have the level set correctly on the carbs and preassure at or below 3psi?
Most likely timing related -mine did like crazy when timing was off- disconnect the throttle linkage, does the 'spit' go away? If it does, reset the linkage and make sure they are in sync - either way they should be around the same - 3 - 6 on the synchrometer.
QUOTE(neil30076 @ Jun 15 2009, 07:15 PM)
QUOTE(nycchef @ Jun 15 2009, 03:59 PM)
QUOTE(turnaround89 @ Jun 15 2009, 02:04 PM)
Depends on the distributor if its the original dizzy, then yea, 11 o'clock may be correct(im not sure about that), but we just replaced the distributor on my 1.7L with a brand new one and TDC on the new dizzy was nowhere near the old one.
do what cupomeat mentioned, thats how we got my car firing after the new dizzy was put in. find tdc on the fan, make sure its TDC on the combustion cycle, if you find TDC on the exhuast cycle, it won't ever fire...we did that one on accident.
o.ki got it. i could have sworn i had it hooked up at the 11 oclock set up. but suprise i was wrong. so it,s running again, got the dwell up to 47.7, and kinda timed it. the timing mark shows about an inch to the drivers side @ 3200 rpm's or so and jumps a little, but i'll fix that when i get
an extra pair of hands.
new problem though the pass side forward stack on the carbs is spitting fuel. any carb guys out there know how to tune and balance wewber 40,s, i have a syncrometer, pass side stacks both at 10, driver side forward 3, rear 6
it never ends ...does it
Rich, when does it spit? Do you have the level set correctly on the carbs and preassure at or below 3psi?
Most likely timing related -mine did like crazy when timing was off- disconnect the throttle linkage, does the 'spit' go away? If it does, reset the linkage and make sure they are in sync - either way they should be around the same - 3 - 6 on the synchrometer.
10 on one side and 3-6 on the other side is the issue.
Nothing will make that motor runright till you fix this.
Rich
new problem though the pass side forward stack on the carbs is spitting fuel. any carb guys out there know how to tune and balance wewber 40,s, i have a syncrometer, pass side stacks both at 10, driver side forward 3, rear 6
it never ends ...does it
[/quote]
I am scared to tell you how.
Remove drop links.
Sync both carbs at idle.
Should be the same, use idle adjustment screws to make them the same.
Keep idle at around 900.
(I dont want to get you into air bypass screws)
If you can do that..hook up the drop links again.
now, measure with the snyc tool again.
you need to shorten or lengthen the drop links tomake sure the carbs match.
Each time you need to flip the throttle...let it settle at idle, then measure.
Rich
don't be scared , i'm getting better at this. should i back the screws off and then set them the same before i start? what is causing the one stack to spit fuel? what is the proper reading on the syncrometer (you told me to buy one, it's like saving someones life(or 914) ,you're responsible for it now).
[/quote]
come to n.y. i need to buy you dinner
Remove the drop links.
Neither one should be touch the carbs.
Use the idle adjustment screws...the ones that hold the position of the throttle plates...
Get that set right.
Spitting can be alot of things...way to much fuel is a start...
Get them down...3-6 is normal...but they ALL need to match.
Each motor is different. Are your valves all adjusted?
This has little to do with ignition, and more to do with valves and air intake speed etc.
Get them down at the exact same number....then make the cross bar linkage keep it that way...that is the basic idea.
Start with no cross bar linkage. I know you are lazy..I will explain.
The simple weight of the cross bar linkage on the throttle plates will screw up the reading.
So, when I say NO drop links...Imean both sides.
Rich
Neither one should be touch the carbs.
Use the idle adjustment screws...the ones that hold the position of the throttle plates...
Get that set right.
Spitting can be alot of things...way to much fuel is a start...
Get them down...3-6 is normal...but they ALL need to match.
Each motor is different. Are your valves all adjusted?
This has little to do with ignition, and more to do with valves and air intake speed etc.
Get them down at the exact same number....then make the cross bar linkage keep it that way...that is the basic idea.
Start with no cross bar linkage. I know you are lazy..I will explain.
The simple weight of the cross bar linkage on the throttle plates will screw up the reading.
So, when I say NO drop links...Imean both sides.
Rich
For some this is a pain in the ass.
For me, I enjoy it..
Learn to love getting it to run perfect.
Dwell should be 48-52...nothing else will do.
Timing should be perfect.
Idle should be perfect
Carbs should (and will) sync up perfect.
If you dont sync the carbs, one side of the car is running with more air and fuel than the other...and you will feel it.
Rich
For me, I enjoy it..
Learn to love getting it to run perfect.
Dwell should be 48-52...nothing else will do.
Timing should be perfect.
Idle should be perfect
Carbs should (and will) sync up perfect.
If you dont sync the carbs, one side of the car is running with more air and fuel than the other...and you will feel it.
Rich
QUOTE(r_towle @ Jun 15 2009, 03:31 PM)
For some this is a pain in the ass.
For me, I enjoy it..
Learn to love getting it to run perfect.
Dwell should be 48-52...nothing else will do.
Timing should be perfect.
Idle should be perfect
Carbs should (and will) sync up perfect.
If you dont sync the carbs, one side of the car is running with more air and fuel than the other...and you will feel it.
Rich
then perfect it will be. so the timing mark be at exacty 12 oclock and still correct?
Rich is right. When it all comes together (valve adjust, timing, and synchronized fuel delivery), the engine will want to REV, not fight itself.
QUOTE(SGB @ Jun 15 2009, 04:12 PM)
Rich is right. When it all comes together (valve adjust, timing, and synchronized fuel delivery), the engine will want to REV, not fight itself.
progress got the timing right, and the dwell @48.3 the spitting has stopped. not as much luck with balancing the carbs, with the linkage off the pasenger side was down to 6,idles but i can't keep the idle and it stalls, idles better @ 10 and the driver side rear stack got down to 5 , but the forward stack pops and reads @ 1 or not at all. popping means lean , am i right?. valves were done twice before the engine went in, i don't hear any clacking, i think they';re o.k
getting closer to perfect
QUOTE(nycchef @ Jun 15 2009, 06:33 PM)
QUOTE(SGB @ Jun 15 2009, 04:12 PM)
Rich is right. When it all comes together (valve adjust, timing, and synchronized fuel delivery), the engine will want to REV, not fight itself.
progress got the timing right, and the dwell @48.3 the spitting has stopped. not as much luck with balancing the carbs, with the linkage off the pasenger side was down to 6,idles but i can't keep the idle and it stalls, idles better @ 10 and the driver side rear stack got down to 5 , but the forward stack pops and reads @ 1 or not at all. popping means lean , am i right?. valves were done twice before the engine went in, i don't hear any clacking, i think they';re o.k
getting closer to perfect
Rich, make sure the inlet manifold bolts are tight, also the carb to manifold - 1 is like no 'suck' or major leak - otherwise sounds like the carbs need another going over - I had to do it 3 times to get mine right on - give me a call - you have my #..
do you have good gaskets, that will definitely lead to leaking carbs, my carbs starting making a whistling sound when the gaskets went bad, changed them and no more whistle from air being sucked through underneath the carb.
QUOTE(turnaround89 @ Jun 15 2009, 05:45 PM)
do you have good gaskets, that will definitely lead to leaking carbs, my carbs starting making a whistling sound when the gaskets went bad, changed them and no more whistle from air being sucked through underneath the carb.
sounds like a plan, thought i heard a whiste earlier today, will tighten everything down and try to balance again. check the gaskets as well.it's drivable now.my wife seems to think i enjoy working on the car more than driving it. she may have a point
1 means you have a leak.
Find the leak, stop running it like that...
you are running that cylinder with very little fuel and very lean.
Rich
Find the leak, stop running it like that...
you are running that cylinder with very little fuel and very lean.
Rich
QUOTE(esses62 @ Jun 15 2009, 07:08 PM)
You dumbass 
Don't you love these cars 1 step forward and 10 steps back.I thought you were on your way. OK here's the deal. We are going to need 3-4 hours this weekend. To get that heap on the road again. Let me know what your schedule is. I'll bring my spares. We will get you
Now the only reason I am helping out is because I'm tired of driving to Jersey. I need another 914 close by.
wow i can feel the love, scott, can clear my schedule most of sunday. maybe all
i will tighten down the carbs tomorrow a.m., check the gaskets, any other places that may cause a leak?
This is why I am not in a hurry to come over. I know that there will be SOMETHING for me to fix 
Soon. Very soon.
Soon. Very soon.
QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Jun 15 2009, 08:34 PM)
This is why I am not in a hurry to come over. I know that there will be SOMETHING for me to fix
Soon. Very soon.doc it's a 914....there will always be something to fix soon. Very soon
QUOTE(nycchef @ Jun 16 2009, 04:39 AM)
QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Jun 15 2009, 08:34 PM)
This is why I am not in a hurry to come over. I know that there will be SOMETHING for me to fix
Soon. Very soon.doc it's a 914....there will always be something to fix soon. Very soon
o.k removed the offending carb to check gaskets. one crack in the rear stack(not the offending one), am replacing, all else are new, heres the rub.. center nut on the manifold (connecting to the block) is stripped, will not tighten down or come off. could this be causing the leak?. is there a method to remove a stripped nut, tried clamping with a vice grip and pull and turn, don't seem to be working.
remove the stud and nut all together, and replace it with a new one...that will get the old stripped nut off and a new stud in. The stud itself isn't stripped, is it? If not, double nut the stud and unscrew the thing out of the head. Buy a new stud, and install with a new nut, don't overtighten the new stud, or you'll strip the hole in the head and thens theres more problems
Yes, not having all the nuts tightened down will cause air to be sucked underneath the manifold making the whistling sound, and makes for a very poor running engine
Yes, not having all the nuts tightened down will cause air to be sucked underneath the manifold making the whistling sound, and makes for a very poor running engine
[quote name='turnaround89' date='Jun 16 2009, 12:47 PM' post='1181443']
remove the stud and nut all together, and replace it with a new one...that will get the old stripped nut off and a new stud in. The stud itself isn't stripped, is it? If not, double nut the stud and unscrew the thing out of the head. Buy a new stud, and install with a new nut, don't overtighten the new stud, or you'll strip the hole in the head and thens theres more problems
Yes, not having all the nuts tightened down will cause air to be sucked underneath the manifold making the whistling sound, and makes for a very poor running engine
what a coincidence, i have a whistling, poor running engine too. is the stud a flaps item or am i in for $8.00 shipping for a .50c part?
remove the stud and nut all together, and replace it with a new one...that will get the old stripped nut off and a new stud in. The stud itself isn't stripped, is it? If not, double nut the stud and unscrew the thing out of the head. Buy a new stud, and install with a new nut, don't overtighten the new stud, or you'll strip the hole in the head and thens theres more problems
Yes, not having all the nuts tightened down will cause air to be sucked underneath the manifold making the whistling sound, and makes for a very poor running engine
what a coincidence, i have a whistling, poor running engine too. is the stud a flaps item or am i in for $8.00 shipping for a .50c part?
i went and bought all new studs at autozone...i had to replace mine because the dual carb manifolds are much thicker than a single carb manifold, in order to get the nut to thread on, i needed longer studs. I replaced all 8 at once, they may not have the exact length you need, but they will have the right thread, i think its like M8x1.25 or M8x1.5. Just pull one of the studs and take it to Napa, Flaps, autozone, etc and they'll get you the right size.
This may not totally solve your problem, but it will surely help...leaks make engines run like
This may not totally solve your problem, but it will surely help...leaks make engines run like
QUOTE(turnaround89 @ Jun 16 2009, 03:31 PM)
i went and bought all new studs at autozone...i had to replace mine because the dual carb manifolds are much thicker than a single carb manifold, in order to get the nut to thread on, i needed longer studs. I replaced all 8 at once, they may not have the exact length you need, but they will have the right thread, i think its like M8x1.25 or M8x1.5. Just pull one of the studs and take it to Napa, Flaps, autozone, etc and they'll get you the right size.
This may not totally solve your problem, but it will surely help...leaks make engines run like
will have to tighten the nut back down to double nut it. hate to work on studs for fear of snapping one. pb blast it and hope for the best. you said you have 8 studs, mine has 6, what size is your engine ,mines a 2.0
I have a 1.7L. I think the 1.7 and 1.8 have 8 studs and the 2.0 has 6, or its the 1.8L and 2.0 have 6 and the 1.7 has 8 studs, not totally sure...but, yea, be careful not to damage anything, its really annoying to try to fix one thing but break something else in the process, 1 problem becomes 2.
, its really annoying to try to fix one thing but break something else in the process,
[/quote]
i think i'll have that put on my tombstone
[/quote]
i think i'll have that put on my tombstone
2.0 have 6 all others have 8. Richie, you may want to look into getting anut splitter. They are not expensive and will remove the nut allowing you to use a stud extractor to pull the stud (another not too expensive tool).
QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Jun 16 2009, 04:45 PM)
2.0 have 6 all others have 8. Richie, you may want to look into getting anut splitter. They are not expensive and will remove the nut allowing you to use a stud extractor to pull the stud (another not too expensive tool).
damn, i had a nut splitter, her name was alice, she was my first wife. i will look for one .some cheap sports car, the money i spend on tools, i could have bought an aston martin
sears has one. has anyone tried this on a manfold nut. i am concerned that there isn't enough room to get the splitter on the nut.
the nut is spinning?
Its just not coming off?
Is it the nut that is spinning or the stud?
If its the nut, gently get a flat head screw driver behind it and lever it out while you are turning it...it might catch a thread and start coming out.
Second...a dremel...cut a slot on the stud and try using a screw driver to pull out the stud.
Third...get a pair of vice grips in there and try to grab the stud and undo it.
Fourth...tack weld the nut onto the stud and use a socket to get on the nut and pull them out together.
Rich
Its just not coming off?
Is it the nut that is spinning or the stud?
If its the nut, gently get a flat head screw driver behind it and lever it out while you are turning it...it might catch a thread and start coming out.
Second...a dremel...cut a slot on the stud and try using a screw driver to pull out the stud.
Third...get a pair of vice grips in there and try to grab the stud and undo it.
Fourth...tack weld the nut onto the stud and use a socket to get on the nut and pull them out together.
Rich
QUOTE(r_towle @ Jun 16 2009, 06:45 PM)
the nut is spinning?
Its just not coming off?
Is it the nut that is spinning or the stud?
If its the nut, gently get a flat head screw driver behind it and lever it out while you are turning it...it might catch a thread and start coming out.
Second...a dremel...cut a slot on the stud and try using a screw driver to pull out the stud.
Third...get a pair of vice grips in there and try to grab the stud and undo it.
Fourth...tack weld the nut onto the stud and use a socket to get on the nut and pull them out together.
Rich
hey rich long time how have you been. it's just the nut. i am gonna try the screw driver way, before i buy another tool. if that works i should be able to clamp down on the stud and screw it out if its no good.
tach weld! i am sure there is no one on this site that wants me welding
i"m baaack. so. got the nut off, stud is toast but thankfully not stuck, will replace all 3 and reassemble. but first.. i didn't damage the gasket and plan on reusing , should i use gasket sealer or somethin'. also how deep should i set the new studs, they are short ( off a 2.0 engine i have), and is locktight o.k in the head and should i use lock washers on the outside. qustions questions questions
thanks
i want to get this right the first time (for once)
thanks
i want to get this right the first time (for once)
Depth.
I set them in the head deep enough so you see about 1/8 inch of thread outside of the nut once it is all together.
Gasket
I use a small amount of RTV Copper sealant on both sides of the phenolic spacer. Originally it comes with paper on both sides...if that paper is missing...RTV works. Assemble wet, let dry for at least an hour...use sparingly...not enough to get into the intake.
Washer
You should be using a wavy washer like the ones that came off of it...lol
The wavy washers are very thin and wavy/bent.
Rich
I set them in the head deep enough so you see about 1/8 inch of thread outside of the nut once it is all together.
Gasket
I use a small amount of RTV Copper sealant on both sides of the phenolic spacer. Originally it comes with paper on both sides...if that paper is missing...RTV works. Assemble wet, let dry for at least an hour...use sparingly...not enough to get into the intake.
Washer
You should be using a wavy washer like the ones that came off of it...lol
The wavy washers are very thin and wavy/bent.
Rich
QUOTE(r_towle @ Jun 17 2009, 03:26 PM)
Depth.
I set them in the head deep enough so you see about 1/8 inch of thread outside of the nut once it is all together.
Gasket
I use a small amount of RTV Copper sealant on both sides of the phenolic spacer. Originally it comes with paper on both sides...if that paper is missing...RTV works. Assemble wet, let dry for at least an hour...use sparingly...not enough to get into the intake.
Washer
You should be using a wavy washer like the ones that came off of it...lol
The wavy washers are very thin and wavy/bent.
Rich
this man has the answers, i need to do something nice for him.... i know , when i die i,ll leave him my car
rich (mr chef),
get that pig running and come up farther north and let all of us in the great nearly white north lay eyes...........
me, i got nuthin' to offer except some bbq that i will ask for a critique and a place to land in southwick! otherwise i volunteer racer chris's place for a gathering!!!!!
cheers,
scott
PS: my daughter keeps asking when we will get to see the nice chef in NYC again!
get that pig running and come up farther north and let all of us in the great nearly white north lay eyes...........
me, i got nuthin' to offer except some bbq that i will ask for a critique and a place to land in southwick! otherwise i volunteer racer chris's place for a gathering!!!!!
cheers,
scott
PS: my daughter keeps asking when we will get to see the nice chef in NYC again!
QUOTE(scottb @ Jun 17 2009, 04:04 PM)
rich (mr chef),
get that pig running and come up farther north and let all of us in the great nearly white north lay eyes...........
me, i got nuthin' to offer except some bbq that i will ask for a critique and a place to land in southwick! otherwise i volunteer racer chris's place for a gathering!!!!!
cheers,
scott
PS: my daughter keeps asking when we will get to see the nice chef in NYC again!
any offer of bbq is a good offer, bringing the pig up there would mean taking it off the jackstands wouldn't it. any one ever tried taking a 914 off it,s jackstands, where would it sit, i thought the tires were just for show.
I told you....pick a weekend...provide me a couch to crash on, and a safe place to park...I will get it off the jack stands...
It will also purr like a kitten.
Only thing I want is to come down saturday and leave sunday so I can go out sat night....I love NYC on sat night.
Rich
It will also purr like a kitten.
Only thing I want is to come down saturday and leave sunday so I can go out sat night....I love NYC on sat night.
Rich
QUOTE(r_towle @ Jun 17 2009, 07:34 PM)
I told you....pick a weekend...provide me a couch to crash on, and a safe place to park...I will get it off the jack stands...
It will also purr like a kitten.
Only thing I want is to come down saturday and leave sunday so I can go out sat night....I love NYC on sat night.
Rich
i don,t want you to come down just to fix my car. i think it's gonna be fine by this weekend thanks to you. on the other hand leo imperial (remember him) wants to put his engine in and i am trying to get dr. evil to come up, so maybe we make a weekend out of it. go have some bbq aand beers in the city.
Leo finally got that 2073 done? I don't believe it.
He must have brought the engine to the delivery room to work on it. What a breeder.
QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Jun 18 2009, 09:43 AM)
He must have brought the engine to the delivery room to work on it. What a breeder.
i don't know if it's the 2073 or if he still needs to put his old 2.0 in the bus. waiting for him to call me back.
mike.. people in glass houses, you'll be breeding soon.
914 2.0 in the bus? Hope not. Think those heads will crack pretty quick pushing that beast around.
QUOTE(nycchef @ Jun 18 2009, 12:43 AM)
QUOTE(r_towle @ Jun 17 2009, 07:34 PM)
I told you....pick a weekend...provide me a couch to crash on, and a safe place to park...I will get it off the jack stands...
It will also purr like a kitten.
Only thing I want is to come down saturday and leave sunday so I can go out sat night....I love NYC on sat night.
Rich
i don,t want you to come down just to fix my car. i think it's gonna be fine by this weekend thanks to you. on the other hand leo imperial (remember him) wants to put his engine in and i am trying to get dr. evil to come up, so maybe we make a weekend out of it. go have some bbq aand beers in the city.
Im just looking for a strong enough reason that I can sell to my wife that will allow me to go to NYC during the weekend....fixing a friends car works.
Rich
QUOTE(r_towle @ Jun 18 2009, 03:04 PM)
QUOTE(nycchef @ Jun 18 2009, 12:43 AM)
QUOTE(r_towle @ Jun 17 2009, 07:34 PM)
I told you....pick a weekend...provide me a couch to crash on, and a safe place to park...I will get it off the jack stands...
It will also purr like a kitten.
Only thing I want is to come down saturday and leave sunday so I can go out sat night....I love NYC on sat night.
Rich
i don,t want you to come down just to fix my car. i think it's gonna be fine by this weekend thanks to you. on the other hand leo imperial (remember him) wants to put his engine in and i am trying to get dr. evil to come up, so maybe we make a weekend out of it. go have some bbq aand beers in the city.
Im just looking for a strong enough reason that I can sell to my wife that will allow me to go to NYC during the weekend....fixing a friends car works.
Rich
o.k hows about this. i need to have my longs done. i'll set up some lift time with ray mital in n.j. theres about 8 teeners out there. will weld a bit and then hit the city. crash at my place. hows that sound ?
rich
Let me know and I will try to make it
Seems like everyone ,i think, IS MISSING the obvious starting point. aand the starting point IS .......SET THE VALVE LASH FIRST and correctly....example...you used the distributor rotor to help you determine TDC. if the rotor was OFF ,(did i read 11;00 to 1;00 ) then make the assumption the valves are not properly set. AN INTAKE VALVE if not seated will ,blow fuel and air up the carburator,causing the poping,and fuel fog over around the carbs..do this stuff first....next step is to check the obvious on the carbs,like missing idle jet screws, that fell out,plugged up air correction jet,WATER in the float boal,a float needle thats worn out,fuel pressure thats too high,or loose jet carriers in the carbs.....set the valve lash first. 
QUOTE(ME733 @ Jun 18 2009, 05:39 PM)
Seems like everyone ,i think, IS MISSING the obvious starting point. aand the starting point IS .......SET THE VALVE LASH FIRST and correctly....example...you used the distributor rotor to help you determine TDC. if the rotor was OFF ,(did i read 11;00 to 1;00 ) then make the assumption the valves are not properly set. AN INTAKE VALVE if not seated will ,blow fuel and air up the carburator,causing the poping,and fuel fog over around the carbs..do this stuff first....next step is to check the obvious on the carbs,like missing idle jet screws, that fell out,plugged up air correction jet,WATER in the float boal,a float needle thats worn out,fuel pressure thats too high,or loose jet carriers in the carbs.....set the valve lash first.
i set the valves and rechecked them before i put the engine in. just finished changing the stripped manifold stud and re attached the carb. too late to run it now , but will check it in the a.m. no water in the bowl, air jets all there, not sure about the fuel needle, new cb performance pump, so i asume the pressure is right. i agree , if it still pops , it's back up on the jack stands and i start from scratch
QUOTE(ME733 @ Jun 18 2009, 05:39 PM)
Seems like everyone ,i think, IS MISSING the obvious starting point. aand the starting point IS .......SET THE VALVE LASH FIRST and correctly....example...you used the distributor rotor to help you determine TDC. if the rotor was OFF ,(did i read 11;00 to 1;00 ) then make the assumption the valves are not properly set. AN INTAKE VALVE if not seated will ,blow fuel and air up the carburator,causing the poping,and fuel fog over around the carbs..do this stuff first....next step is to check the obvious on the carbs,like missing idle jet screws, that fell out,plugged up air correction jet,WATER in the float boal,a float needle thats worn out,fuel pressure thats too high,or loose jet carriers in the carbs.....set the valve lash first.
you may be right, changed the stud, replaced the carb and it's better. only light popping on idle, but still unbalanceable. 10 on the driver side, 3 on the pass side, if i raise the idle on the driver carb..i get pops, lower it in the pass carb.. stalls. so i am removing the carbs,disassemble , clean them , reset them to factory specs, if that ain't it, it's on to the valves again. if that ain't it well ...rich you can pick up the keys from my wife at the wake
till then does anyone know the correct float setting?
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.