Hi,
I'm replacing my master cylinder with a new ATE 17mm...in reading up on how to do this, it seems the one difficult step is re-installing the reservoir lines. What are the "best practices" for doing this from you seasoned pros?

In looking over the new MC, I noticed if I removed the rubber boot for the reservoir line, there is a small washer under it that easily gets out of place and prevents the boot from re-seating properly...so it would seem that pulling the boot out and putting over the reservoir line and then inserting the line with the boot attached might be problematic...

Anyway, I need to get this done today and not spend the entire afternoon fighting with it, so any suggestions from those who have already fought (and won) this battle would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Chris

I use a little brake fluid to get the end of the line and the rubber(still in the M/C) seal wet and then shove them in. But that's me.

Do you push them back on before or after bolting the MC to the firewall?

I did mine after. I took a open end wrench and used it to pull the hose in it's socket while laying under the car.

This is one of those jobs that is WAY easier with a helper and the gas tank pulled.

I've done it single handed, and it is a pain in the butt. Cussing lots helped though.

Last time I did it I had the master bolted in firm. You need one hand wiggling the line at the fitting, one hand pushing the line into place, and one hand moving the master if it is not bolted in.

You will probably spend less time pulling the tank and getting the lines in with a helper then not pulling the tank.

Zach

when I did it, I had the M/C on, but not tight... before I did it I used a little brake fluid on my finger and loosened up the rubber it still sucked... you have no leverage when doing it alone... it sucks. and just when you think you'll never get it... it will seem to slide right in... reminds me of High school

Get the front of the car in the air on jackstands. Unbolt the fluid reservoir so it can be lowered by a foot or two. This will allow you to pull the two fluid lines below the floor assuming you have the steering rack cover removed. Now take each line one at a time and " push " them into the master cylinder grommets. This is very easy to do because you now have leverage. You will hear/feel them " pop " into place. Once both are done slowly feed the lines back up while moving the master cylinder into place. Good luck.

Yes, I remember the pain very well. To get the lines in the MC I used two pair of visescripe pliers, pulling down very hard till you herar it pop in. not looking forward to ever doing it again...

This sounds like the best approach...as the lack of leverage is the main issue. I'll let you know how it goes!!

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Chris

if it's not too late to help you (that is, if you are still fighting it...) this is way easier if you attach the lines to the MC on the bench where you can see what you're doing and have leverage to press down. Then snake the lines back up to the reservoir and reattach.

This is what I am going to do when it comes time to install the MC. Working under the front gives very little room, besides my octopus left me , dag nab it !!

Jaxdream

Thanks for the suggestion...I've already installed it and followed the advice above to simply remove the bracket from the reservoir, which allowed me to pull down the lines enough to easily insert them from under the car, and then carefully pulled them back up already installed. This worked well and was pretty easy.

You could be lucky like me....

D*** clear plastic lines decided to leak at the joint with the metal part that fits into the master cylinder. All the fluid ran out overnight.....