Finally finished up the dash in brushed stainless steel. I am very pleased with the outcome!

One more pic

bueatifull.

did that stuff come in a roll, and you just trimmed it to fit??

Nope - I programmed all of it - the dash, glove box door, front gauges and consloe upper and lower. Then had it laser cut in 20G brushed stainless steel.

Mark

i think if you put a solid kick panels under the doors to match

it would tie it to the dash

very nice looking.

Stainless console....just thinking outloud.

I have three things I would like to see what it might cost...
Could be longer term products.

First
How hard would it be for you to do 2.0 liter HE flanges in soft steel, not stainless? I know you have the program already. I need to weld these myself with no tig....so mig will be my weapon of choice.

Second
Weber 40mm IDF top of carb...a 1/2 thick plate...two holes ( I will provide you the diameter for the stacks I have) plus a butterfly hole for the jet tubes....and the screw holes to hold it all down ( I could do those if needed...)

And finally.
a 1/2 inch thick piece of aluminum that is for the oil filler tower.
Remove the tower/filler.
The piece would fit over the rectangular opening.
It would have a groove in the bottom to sit down tight...with a rubber gasket.
It would have two ears, one on each end to run a bolt through...a bolt with a bent section on the ends to utilise the holes the bale uses..

Then obviously it would have a large hole for the filler (TBD) and a smaller hole for the breather (figure AN fitting..TBD)
The intention is to put a MUCH taller filler neck so its easier to fill.
AN fitting on the breather is so it stops leaking or falling off.

Rich

The 2.0 exchangers is steel would not be an issue to make. The question is why not use the stainless steel ones? You can tig theses - all you need is the ss wire which Loes carries in smaller reels.

As to the other two - these are both 1/2" aluminum - todays lasers cut up to about .3" with a good cut. Beyond that thickness it is near impossible - so you are looking at a mill operation. This can be done but I would have to be able to market and sell at least a 20 piece run - and it will cost more to do this on a mill.

I had a hell of a time with the stainless - figure to get one good scratch free set - I ran 4.

Mark

Very cool. I have a stock dash sitting out back I just pulled out, thinking it could be moidified for a race car.... but yours is cooler...

Looks great Mark! Come on up to the 914 BBQ on 8/1 so we can see it in person.

Ya know that would be nice to have a plate that covers the underside of the dash. I guess no one sees it but it would just finish the interior off nice. Of course I don't have a center console so maybe other interiors don't look like mine.

Nice to see some new parts coming down the pike though

Soft steel will be what I want on the flanges...I dont tig weld.
Dont have a tig welder (wish I did)
and, dont want to pay a guy to tig weld it...

.3 inches might work...
I think it would work fine for the carbs (and these would be marketable...I cant find anything like this)

For the oil filler...same as above from a sales point of view.
I am not sure about how well it would seal...

Rich

I wanted to do the same, but in a darker brushed metal. I dont know what to use. Looks great, though. As expected.

Stainless can be blued or blackened. It's done on guns. Check out Brownells Cataloge.

The scratched ones must be pretty scratched. I have rebrushed lots of scratches out of stainless. My friend fabs in ss and I used to be his helper so I got all the rebrushing and wire scratching on the welds. He did a lot of fabbing for M&M Mars and they use ss in the cooking part of the plant for ease of cleanup I guess. I love the way that place smells.

Wanna sell a scratched set that I can rebrush for a fair price?

Rich I have migged lots on stainless steel. It's just mild steel with nickle in it. The more nickle the less it rusts. I will probably make a inner fender well out of ss to go where the battery tray goes that is rusted and it will get welded to the body but probably with a tig as it will not get as hot that way, not really because it's ss.

Gerald - wish I could be there - but too much going on to get away.

I will look to see if I kept any of the scratched ones - I know I have a set in steel, cause I did all of the check fit in steel.

And I do have one set unmounted, unscratched.

Mark

Put a price on your extra ss set. I'm interested. If it's as good as your other stuff it's probably perfect.

I liked yours so much I did a set of my own...last year.
I got a good deal on some slightly used door kick plates at a local scrap yard.
It took me a couple of attempts to get the gauge set right but in the end I really like the look. As you can see I even did the console too.
It isn't that easy to keep clean, finger smudges and is is heavy if you are planning to autocross your car.

Nice Mr E

Doug, that is a pretty groovy setup you got there, cool console

Looks a bit better in this shot. If Engman is getting them laser cut it would be a lot better than all by hand like I did.