Hi All -
I did some searching, but nothing came up...
I have two quick (yeah, right...) conversion questions. Does anyone have a step by step for the wiring on a six conversion? Have seen cars both with and without the relay board -not quite sure how it all should go. This will be for a carbed motor. My 2.0 4cyl is carbed and the relay board is still intact.

Also, I want to keep my front mounted oil cooler. I plan on using Rich Johnsons modified stock oil cooler and hopefully (depending on budget restraints) his reproduction GT oil lines. Just not sure what gets hooked to what in terms of inlet and outlet.

Thanks!!!
Scott S

Wiring for a carbed motor is really simple.
You really NEED one wire...keyed power to the coil.
You have that now in the black/purple wire.

the optional ones are the tach wire (the little black one at the coil)
and the oil pressure sensor.

The way you currently have the motor wired is how you should wire the new motor.
The carbs (If they have an elec choke) could use switch power also..


As far as the oil lines...you need to find the pressure side and the return side for the 911 motor and route them accordingly.
You will want a remote filter to protect your oil cooler...so inline.
you will want a remote, inline thermostat to protect your cooler...so it does not explode with cold oil/high pressure.

Leave the oil cooler on the motor if it has one..

Rich

The next thing you have to do is see if you have the correct pin out for the alternator. If yes, plug in and go. If not, you have to make sure you have all of the wiring straight.

Scott,

it will be pretty simple.
I do have a full color schematic in my race car book I can share
but really simple.

Give me a call at home this evening.
brant

Black/purple is the tach wire. Black or black/red is the coil power wire. Not so good to mix them up. The power wire is thicker than the tach signal wire. Both the purple and the red can fade over the years.

--DD

I forgot about the alternator.
That would need to be redone.
the regulator for a 914/4 is on the relay board.
The 911 alternator has a built in regulator.
So, you will need Brants diagram to re-route that set of lines..

Rich

The 911 alternator is either internally regulated, or uses the same external voltage regulator, depending on the year of the engine. I think all the 3.0 liter and later engines are internally regulated, but the earlier one are not.

George Hussey @ AA has a nice booklet available on doing a conversion. It has all the wiring diagrams for the different engines, and also has a diagram to help you drill out the oil tank mounts.

^^ That conversion booklet is very, very vague .

Brant,
Any chance you could post the diagram?
Thanks
Van

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Hurry up and buy the thing Scotty.. I'm gonna need a motor soon I think.

The leak down will happen the week of the 20th. If all goes as hoped, I will have it shortly there after. based on the other thread, I have decided not to use the CIS (I would like to continue to deal with the pain of having a carbed car at altitude - for old times sake... )

Here's a link to what I puzzled out when I converted my 74...have fun!

4 to 6 wiring

Cool Scott! the only down side for you is that your cool paperwork for a 916/4 won't work anymore!

Make sure that your oil cooler is atleast AN-12, if its any smaller you can't use it.

The early 911 alternator still uses a regulator, I'm not sure if they can be wired the same as the 914 alternator. The later alternators (I think 3.0 motors and newer) have the internally regulated alternator and require different wiring, but they are pretty easy to figure out. Also note that the internally regulated alternator uses a different cowling (the piece that goes behind the alternator).

Good Luck!