So.... POR 15 metal ready sucks at preventing flash rust. Even in a garage that is ok at sealing.

Spraying a two part epoxy primer is out, and my pans are going to be bare metal for a while since I have to remove the cross brace in the pan and the center tunnel to attack the rust in there. Is epoxy primer available in cans?

I need to prevent the metal from flashing and rusting agian while this is done so I can do it all with por 15 excepting the area where the brace/center tunnel mates with the pan, which of course will be weld through primer.



Also any reccomendations on a good weld through primer? U-pol I hear is the best and worth every penny vs 3m or the others?


Thoughts?

Forgot to add, I picked up two cans of rustoleum cold galvanizing compound, hoping it may work. 93% zinc, and it appears to lay like primer.

Thoughts on that?

I know today when I get back to the garage my clean pass rear pan is going to look nasty again

I used the cold galvanizing compound where I was going to weld
later with good results. Just don't make it too thick, and wear a
mask when welding it because the zinc smoke is not good for you.

I don't think you can paint over the galvanizing compound though.

I used eastwood self etching primer in rattle cans for protecting
metal while in process. It is not completely waterproof and will let
rust form after a few months if it is damp.

Someone makes two part primer in spray cans, where you
push a button to mix the parts. I think eastwood sells it, never
tried it myself.

Now I mix up an ounce or two of two part epoxy primer and brush it
on for touching up small areas. Saves the trouble of getting out
and cleaning the spray gun.

John

WD40
Seriously

Prior to painting you will need to do some serious chemical cleaning, but wd40 will keep the bare metal safe for a while..
I have used it on bare fenders before.
Again...you need to clean it with laquer thinner quite a bit prior to painting...but it works.

Rich

i've never used this but sounds interesting.

http://getgibbs.com/tips.php

My tub sat as bare metal for 4 months. Granted they were the cold months when the moisture is frozen out of the air.

When I started painted the following spring, I just went over the entire car with a DA sander and 200 grit paper to remove any flash rust that formed.

As humid as it has been lately, this may not work for you.

Zach

...Phospho is an acid prep that has to be neutralized with water (sponge lightly). It leaves a medium gray coating that eliminates flash.

Flash starts occuring quickly. The onset of which is not decernable with the naked eye. However, one trick is to use a digital camera, which finds the flash. Try it, you'll be amazed at the amount of rust you'll miss. I use it to verify the areas I've worked on.

I was thinking for some reason cold galvanizing compound would work well. The price is right also, 5.50$ a can at home depot and available almost anywhere.

I am going to try it. I am kind of agains the wd40 idea because I know from experience how bad any oil or petroleum stuff can fuck por-15 up. It will literally run away from a millimeter spot of grease when you attempt to brush it in, and it will do it slowly when it is almost finger dry too

When I am ready, I will just break out the 4.5" disc grinder with 60 grit wheel, vacuum the dust then etch with metal ready and por-15.

I am more looking for a solution with quick clean up.

I thought the pan was going to flash worse than it did, but it surprised me that it was as clean as it was when I checked it around 2pm-5pm during family move time.

Now time to remove the cross brace, center tunnel, and seat mounts.... argh!

I noticed within an hour the surface of the metal gets "dull" and I am guessing that is the beginning of the flash?

Does the camera accent that or am I totally wrong?

I have a friend that makes cars. Really he is a metal smith. He uses some kind of home made stuff made from molasses and vinegar. I don't know the formula but it works.

He drinks it and the car appears to have no rust at all....

Rich

Zinc can be difficult to get paint to stick to. It's the problem with a lot of those factory paint jobs where the color coat begins to separate from the zinc primer underneath.

Ospho contails just a little organic zinc and is a good preservative if you don't wipe it with water. Just let it dry. I've had bare osph treated parts look good for 6 months or more-if you remove the rust.

lowes has a degreaser rust inhibitor(sp) just wipe the car down.. Mine has been bare metal for a long time...first the soda blast helpped then I sanded down the flash rust and used it..any time I handle the car (touch it) just re wipe it.. from Crown...

Got some better stuff from the paint store once I get serious..

Mixed Metal REady double streighth in a hand held pump sprayer and liberally coated the tub. No flash rust appearing for 60 days. Quick sand on the few spots that appeared, and another coat good for another 60 days. Worked for me.