........little to no rust car

Thought you guys might enjoy this.
This is what got by me because I didn't look hard enough and took the PO's word for a car in good shape.

Looks like I'll really get my wish to practice my welding skills Since I found a 2 relay block under the pass. seat with no relays and a big snipped yellow wire that had been connected to its self instead of running through the relay block.....may end up explaining my electrical issues

so off I go to start and

Connecting the two big yellow wires is the standard way to bypass the seat belt interlock system. Nothing weird there.

The good news is the floor sections are available to buy and it's far from the hardest cut & weld project to do on these cars.

The bad news is, well, you gotta buy the panels, cut and weld . . . .

It'll be over before you know, good luck.

You'll be thankful those holes are there when your passenger passes gas.

Easy fix!

Welding is for sissy's, just put about 4" of bondo over the holes like the PO did to mine.

Thats really not all of it too. The lower firewall cap (that intersects the floor) is rotten too. I can sick my hand through in the corners and in spots along the bottom. That area actually looks like it may be easy to do since its spot welded in. I only hope there's something decent behind it and I don't end up rebuilding the entire car! The center rail under the seat is kinda shot too, man I got duped!

This thread brings something to mind. A lot of us have looked at and passed on cars that had major rust issues, or have at least come in contact with cars that have major rust issues. I know it's buyer beware and for some talented folks rust issues aren't really an issue at all. But wouldn't it be nice to have a record of cars with a description of their last known 'current 'state'? For instance, I came accross a car a couple of years back that the owner said he was planning on selling. He also proudly told me about the many layers of bondo and fiberglass he had used to conceal all of the cars 'issues'. Nice. I keep expecting to see the car on this site for sale, but my guess was that by now he sold it locally.
Probably no way to accomplish it and might not even be the 'right' thing to do. It was just a thought. Back to your regularly scheduled thread.

993inNYC, Good luck with the repairs- keep at it, you'll be back on the road in no time and intimately familiar with your car when your done, which is a good thing.
Keep the progress pics coming!

check this out! this WAS the fix for the area where the rear decklid pull is. It was backed up on the other side and riveted together and "sealed" with something (maybe bondo). Anyone notice what the patch was made of?

had to come off something Porsche after 1976 cause it ain't rusty

Can't say it wasn't a genuine Porsche part!

You're absolutely right and I should have been more diligent. I agree with the database idea, but who would keep it and who would tell the truth?

Thanks for the words of encouragement. And yes I will be intimate with it, I plan on continuing the stripping so I can get it media blasted. Should have it gutted in the next week. I also have a second motor i may as well get someone started on rebuilding so I can have everything ready when the body is done. I Intend on trying to keep a good record of the "before and afters". I think it will go along way if, when done, I decide to sell it (or any time for that matter). This will definitely test my talents and patience. I'm just glad my other car is a Porsche ......and a cool one at that

At least it wasn't that China steel crap I think it was a sign of some kind, and feels like aluminum, which would explain it being riveted and not welded in.
Sad part, is some indy Porsche shop in Columbia SC (be careful you guys living nearby) actually had the balls to call this a "fix" and put their name on it...........sad!

In that glob of wires going to the relay under the pass. seat there is one that is hot with the key on. Can't remember the color. Find it and put some shrink wrap on it and seal it up. The big yellow is the starter solenoid wire. It needs to be as it is. Ripped the seat belt relay out on my '74 six conversion. Also did away with the relay board too.

Take a look at mine before you start saying yours is rusty....

Ah ha! see now this is info I need! That would explain why I found a relay wire tied in the engine bay that I couldn't explain until I pulled the fuse and had no starter. So they bypassed the relay under the seat (probably 'cuase it was getting wet!) and routed the starter wire to a safer location.........very good thank you for that! Now what is the big hot one for (who's color you don't recall)?

must be something to do with yellow 75's :banghead: WOW you have some work to do too, hope mine's not that bad once I media blast it!

No, that is not what you found.

First, the wiring under the passenger seat goes to what is called a "logic circuit" and it was never a relay.
It was a one year only safety feature on these cars.
It was activated by the pressure switches in the seats..
Seat belt interlock also.
It activated a light on the dash, and also disabled the starter.
It did get wet and corroded.
The only thing you need to do is remove the two yellow wires from the logic circuit and crimp them together, with waterproof heat shrink tubing.
That is a hot starter wire that has 12 VDC only when the key is in the start position.

Any relay you found in the engine bay, or under the car near the starter is a "fix" called a hot start relay. It was an old ford starter relay monkey rigged to provide more power to the starter when the car gets hot and the electrical connections get weaker. Its not really a fix...its a masking bandaid.
Fix the wiring and ground correctly and remove the hot start relay, everything will be fine...no need to add one more piece of wiring that is not stock and harded to troubleshoot.

BTW....you wont find alot of mercy here for your rust...that car looks easy to fix...
Go find a thread titled "digging into hell"
That is a major rebuild...

Im from the Northeast...we love salt up here....so our car rust out ALOT...

Just take it in stride and dream of the day you are done and driving.

Rich

Sucks that you found this but a good thing you found the rust now. My car looked perfect when I bought it but as I was taking out the interior for race preping it I found the exact thing you did.

It is a simple fix and really can be corrected without replacing the whole floor.

I ended up puting in an Engman kit in and had the floor Rhino lined after it was sprayed with Zero Rust.

Here is some pics of what mine looked like and how it looks now. Hope it gives you some ideas

So you mean the wires in Phoenix's post (the ones wrapped in electric tape) were all for a disable feature and never had relays plugged into the block? I don't have that one in his pic that is off by itself.

And I looked at veltror's post.............holy crap! I'll stop whining now, that s.o.b. would have been crushed if mine! He could buy a nice 993 for what he's going to have in just body repair

was asking what an engman kit was, found it and can't delete this post

The wiring is not for a relay...its not a relay.
Call it that if you want...but its a logic circuit not wired like a relay...
I did a full reverse drawing of how it works...its on here somewhere...

Yes, the block can be left just like that...with the Yellow wire tied toegether...simple.

As far as rust....its all perspective.
You will get it...
Another thread to look at is called "heaven for the hell hole"
That shoes each individual part that is available for our cars....
Not so bad if you look at all the parts you can get if you need them.

Floors can be purchase in fron and rear sections or quarters..
They can also be purchased as full halves, front to back.

Doing the floors is really not that bad...a day or two.
If you are going to go all the way...while you are waiting for your car to come back, build a rotisierre for the car...its good practice and its one of the coolest ways to fix these cars.

Rich

hmm......never heard of a logic board, love to see that schematic if you can locate it (I don't think its in my Haynes).

As for the rotis, I won't have the room. I figure with the lift, I may be able to hang it for doing any underside welding. Looks as if repairs are made from the topside though, no? Drill the spots and reweld to the new pans from the top

There is one area you may need to check and do from the underside but most from the top. Check where the jack point is and how the long in that area is. There is a double wall in that area you can see while you are under it. I actaully still need to repair that part but my car is fine for now.

so far, pass. side looks really good. I pulled the side skirt off since it was a rusty mess. The jack point isn't so good, but the long itself looks to be fine (on the surface anyway). I haven't gotten to the drivers side yet but that skirt is still good. It did however have a pound or two of dirt locked between it and the long, can't wait to see what it may have done over time. Blew it all out with air compressor, skirt looked okay on the backside from peering in by the rear tire (car's on the lift) so we'll see

Whatever Rust you have is nothing compared to this. Veltror and I deserve the Rusty Pins of Honor. At least mine is a -6, I think Veltror is Loco or into S&M.

T.C.

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Yeah I agree, and as said before I'll stop whining. I just hated seeing it after being told what I was told............water under the carpet (bridge) I guess

As a small update to Jon's comment about the longs, I felt compelled to go pull the other skirt off and luckily it looks to be very clean. There's a small area right under the front of the door that is rotted but it hasn't attacked the inner layer (that I can see). The only other area is the factory jack point has a small hole in it, but can probably be repaired in place and as well inside the jack pad area thats normally sealed looks ok with a media blast, just surface rust.

So pans and a few repair patches it is (it looks like).

In the 914 universe, there are a couple of things that make me cringe and nervous ...

1.) "I parked it running"

2.) "This is a rust free California (or any other dry state) car"

3.) "It was maintained by a trained Professional mechanic"

4.) "Those wheels are straight and true"

5.) "Add your own here [___________________________________]"

If you want to see one that is already gutted you are welcome to come check mine out.

yeah, would love to. You free this coming up w/e? PM me your contact info and I'll come check it out.

Here's the "logic circuit" wiring. It's from the current flow diagram on the Pelican Parts site. It's part # J34. It's for a '74....

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Ok, so please bare with me here, but if J34 is the block I found, that looks like a relay block but had none in it......what is "D" in that picture? Again I'm not that good at reading those schematics but I see what looks to be a light at "K" and some sort of variable switch that is "D" and "H6"? and that is fed off that "logic board"? or D the board and I don't have one anymore.......I'm confused

The "D" in the diagram is the ignition switch. H6 is the key warning buzzer contact. K19 is the seat belt warning light. To better see and understand it go to Pelican Parts web site and download the '74 current flow diagram.

I did not know PORSCHE was making BEER ! I want some.

No notloco bnor s&M just attached to my car...


by the non-rusty bits