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> valve adjustment, remove HE'S??
toon1
post Jul 7 2006, 04:39 PM
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I'm going to adjust the valves tomorrow, 1st time with the motor in. Do I need to remove the HE's??
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Cap'n Krusty
post Jul 7 2006, 04:47 PM
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Only if your a 10th degree black belt masochist. Use my vlave adjustment method mentioned in the "Classic Threads".

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=28758

Have fun! The Cap'n
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Aaron Cox
post Jul 7 2006, 04:51 PM
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have fun!

small hands help
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elwood-914
post Jul 7 2006, 05:00 PM
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QUOTE(Aaron Cox @ Jul 7 2006, 03:51 PM) *

have fun!

small hands help


You know what they say about small hands.....Aaron (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)
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toon1
post Jul 7 2006, 05:02 PM
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from the have fun comment I gather it's not but I have to get er done!

dang!! I got big hands, oh well you know what they say about big hands and feet??(if only it were trueLOL)




QUOTE(Aaron Cox @ Jul 7 2006, 03:51 PM) *

have fun!

small hands help
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elwood-914
post Jul 7 2006, 05:09 PM
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Piece of cake. When I am planning a valve adjustment I put it up the night before on the ramps so I do not have to start the engine in the morning. Takes about 20 to 40 minutes depending how much I screw around. Seems awkward at first but you get the hang of it rather quickly. Do the Capt's and there is an article on the Pelican site too.
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toon1
post Jul 7 2006, 05:26 PM
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20 to 40 min?? that's pretty quick, seems like it would take longer. I will find out tomorrow
QUOTE(elwood-914 @ Jul 7 2006, 04:09 PM) *

Piece of cake. When I am planning a valve adjustment I put it up the night before on the ramps so I do not have to start the engine in the morning. Takes about 20 to 40 minutes depending how much I screw around. Seems awkward at first but you get the hang of it rather quickly. Do the Capt's and there is an article on the Pelican site too.
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Rand
post Jul 7 2006, 05:27 PM
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Keep some pocket change handy.... A coin is handy up/under there for turning the adjuster in that short space.
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TravisNeff
post Jul 7 2006, 05:30 PM
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QUOTE(Rand @ Jul 7 2006, 04:27 PM) *

Keep some pocket change handy.... A coin is handy up/under there for turning the adjuster in that short space.



Neat trick, I will give that a shot next time I do my valves. Even with a stubby driver it is pretty cramped trying to lock down the nut and hold the adjuster at the same time.
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Aaron Cox
post Jul 7 2006, 05:53 PM
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a penny and an offset sloted screwdriver are your friends...

with a header and cro-mo pushrods, it takes me 7-10 minutes (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Cap'n Krusty
post Jul 7 2006, 05:59 PM
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If yopu use a 1/4" tip screwdriver, or even a 3/8 tip, between 12 and 18" long, you can get right in there from the outside. All 8 of 'em. Trust me, I've been doing this for 33 years. An offset wrench is nice, too.

One like this (sorry for the crude attempt at drawing!)

__
\______________
\__

Mine's an old SK, but I'm sure there are others. The Cap'n

Edit: The picture didn't work! Oh, well .............
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anthony
post Jul 7 2006, 06:07 PM
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I highly recommend the Pelican article for a 1st timer. The turning the wheel from underneath the car trick is a great time saver.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...alve_adjust.htm
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Cap'n Krusty
post Jul 7 2006, 06:36 PM
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QUOTE(anthony @ Jul 7 2006, 05:07 PM) *

I highly recommend the Pelican article for a 1st timer. The turning the wheel from underneath the car trick is a great time saver.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...alve_adjust.htm


Time saver? Only takes 3 times as long as my way. Even with all the valves out, I can do them in 10 minutes, covers on to covers on. Of course, I've done a zillion, and I use a lift. My way is just simpler. Period. The Cap'n
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anthony
post Jul 7 2006, 07:39 PM
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The version posted in the classic thread somewhat requires that people know what they are doing. I just think the Pelican article with all of it's step by step instructions and purty pictures is better for a first timer.
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BigDBass
post Jul 7 2006, 08:47 PM
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I have no idea when my valves were last adjusted. The PO had never even heard of valve adjustment. I'm in denial cuz I'm antidimated* intimidated. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pinch.gif)




*Edit: (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) antidimated? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif)

**EditEdit:
QUOTE
adjustment. I'm in denial cuz I'm antidimated* intimidated.
*Edit: (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) antidimated?

And now you see why
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SGB
post Jul 7 2006, 09:09 PM
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You do want to be sure you have solid lifters, not hydrualic ones like me. Hydro lifters are ~supposed~ to be set & forget, and thats pretty true, but it is kinda annoying to get 'em all screwed up using the traditional valve adjust method. So now is they question "how do I know if they are solid or hydraulic?" and as far as I know the best indicator is the use of a spring in the center part of the rocker assembly holding the valves in place on hydraulic lifter conversions. Another apparent characteristic is that the hydro lifters will compress a little when pressed on. This topic has been addressed here and at pelicanparts pretty completely.
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scottb
post Jul 7 2006, 09:24 PM
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first time i did it was about 30 minutes....

did it again last tuesday with the headers off in about 10.

i really like dave hunts explanation of the procedure. really clicked for me. your mileage may vary....

cheers,

scott

valve adjustment
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Dr Evil
post Jul 8 2006, 12:00 AM
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As far as screw drivers to use, the tiny (about 1" total length) 1/4" tipped screw drivers in the buckets at Harbor Freight for $.49 would probably work quite well here.

Just my $.02
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