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RoadGlue |
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#1
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Sonoma County Gear Head ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 2,033 Joined: 8-January 03 From: Santa Rosa, CA Member No.: 108 Region Association: Northern California ![]() ![]() |
I have been eyeing this style of bump steer kit for sometime. Does anyone here have first hand experience with this and does anyone know if the kit is available cheaper elsewhere?
Thanks! Attached thumbnail(s) ![]() |
Aaron Cox |
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#2
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Professional Lawn Dart ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Retired Admin Posts: 24,541 Joined: 1-February 03 From: Corona, CA Member No.: 219 Region Association: Southern California ![]() |
i believe elephant makes the kit....
search on Pelican, someone had one kit fail... on the track. Really required for a street car? maybe raise the spindles instead? |
J P Stein |
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#3
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Irrelevant old fart ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 8,797 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Vancouver, WA Member No.: 45 Region Association: None ![]() |
I use the ERP (Smart Racing) jobbies along with rack spacers....I also have raised spindles which necessitate these. They work as advertised tho I don't think they are as strong as the stock pieces. Cheeper nowhere I could find.
I looked at Elephant & bought ERP. None of this shittage is necessary for a streetcar....IMO. I was fresh out of shock travel before raising the spindles & I don't run the car all that low. |
PRS914-6 |
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#4
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Excellence Magazine Project 914 3.6 ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Retired Members Posts: 1,278 Joined: 20-May 06 From: Central California Member No.: 6,031 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
If you order from them confirm the price listed on their web site is the actual price they are going to charge you. I found out the hard way that they don't necessarily update the web prices when they decide on a price increase. A poor policy.....
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sww914 |
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#5
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,439 Joined: 4-June 06 Member No.: 6,146 Region Association: None ![]() |
I just fixed one of those a couple of weeks ago that was broken. The problem is that the little wedge piece that goes into the steering arm isn't tight enough on the bolt, which allows a little bit of play, leading to breakage sometimes under racing conditions, but everything breaks eventually in racing.
I bought a Rebel Racing bump steer kit to replace it with. The Rebel kit has a 14mm bolt that is machined down to fit into the wedge shaped hole in the steering arm, rather than a 3/8" (about 10mm) bolt. A 14mm bolt is twice as strong as a 10mm bolt, all other things being equal. They're about the same money. http://www.rebelracingproducts.com/Suspension/Steering.html |
sww914 |
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#6
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,439 Joined: 4-June 06 Member No.: 6,146 Region Association: None ![]() |
Plus, he's in the next town up the coast so he delivered it and a set of modified struts right to my house!
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RoadGlue |
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#7
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Sonoma County Gear Head ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 2,033 Joined: 8-January 03 From: Santa Rosa, CA Member No.: 108 Region Association: Northern California ![]() ![]() |
I use the ERP (Smart Racing) jobbies along with rack spacers....I also have raised spindles which necessitate these. They work as advertised tho I don't think they are as strong as the stock pieces. Cheeper nowhere I could find. I looked at Elephant & bought ERP. None of this shittage is necessary for a streetcar....IMO. I was fresh out of shock travel before raising the spindles & I don't run the car all that low. Thanks JP, Other than the bumpsteer problem, I happen to like the way my lowered car looks and rides and I use it for both the street and track. Why wouldn't this "shittage" be necessary for a lowered street car if the WM rack spacers don't fix the problem? But really why would it matter if I didn't auto-x or do DE events? The problem would still be there as a street car. Aren't streets and back roads bumpier than most tracks anyways? In fact, I don't notice it much when I'm on the track. I'm too focused on everything else I guess. |
RoadGlue |
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#8
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Sonoma County Gear Head ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 2,033 Joined: 8-January 03 From: Santa Rosa, CA Member No.: 108 Region Association: Northern California ![]() ![]() |
I just fixed one of those a couple of weeks ago that was broken. The problem is that the little wedge piece that goes into the steering arm isn't tight enough on the bolt, which allows a little bit of play, leading to breakage sometimes under racing conditions, but everything breaks eventually in racing. I bought a Rebel Racing bump steer kit to replace it with. The Rebel kit has a 14mm bolt that is machined down to fit into the wedge shaped hole in the steering arm, rather than a 3/8" (about 10mm) bolt. A 14mm bolt is twice as strong as a 10mm bolt, all other things being equal. They're about the same money. http://www.rebelracingproducts.com/Suspension/Steering.html Great! I'm glad I posted. I started reading about the failures and wrote the product off. Then you posted this and it looks like it'll fit the bill nicely. And it's the same price as the other kit. Thanks! |
J P Stein |
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#9
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Irrelevant old fart ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 8,797 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Vancouver, WA Member No.: 45 Region Association: None ![]() |
Thanks JP, Other than the bumpsteer problem, I happen to like the way my lowered car looks and rides and I use it for both the street and track. Why wouldn't this "shittage" be necessary for a lowered street car if the WM rack spacers don't fix the problem? But really why would it matter if I didn't auto-x or do DE events? The problem would still be there as a street car. Aren't streets and back roads bumpier than most tracks anyways? In fact, I don't notice it much when I'm on the track. I'm too focused on everything else I guess. I run on an AX venue that is very rough. 21mm Tbars, 275 lb rear springs, revalved shocks, & slicks. The car is set at 4-3/4 inch, doughnuts to ground. I know or folks that run lower and I would if we had smooth venues.....gets your CG down a bit, I'm no big fan of running on the bumpstops.....instant traction loss on which ever end it occurs not to mention the added stress on the suspension bits.... thus the raised spindles. No offense, but I could care less about the "look". Checking my present suspension travel I could lower it another half inch......but could you tell the difference?(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) This is a fairly smooth venue Attached image(s) ![]() |
TimT |
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#10
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retired ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,033 Joined: 18-February 03 From: Wantagh, NY Member No.: 313 ![]() |
Ive lost count on how many of the Smart Racing (ERP) bump-steer kits we have installed..lots of them. The other products look like they would work fine as well
We have never heard of a failure of the ERP kit except the one discussed on pelican. If I remember correctly the person who experienced the failure couldn't ascertain whether the bolts had been torqued properly.. and work had been done on the car by himself and others.... If your going to install something like this on a street car that may see inclement weather you might want to add [url=h ttp://www.sealsit.com/rodend.asp]rod end seals[/url] to the kit... I don't drive my car in the rain at the track so keeping moisture out of the rod ends isn't to tough. |
Inspector |
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#11
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 8 Joined: 15-February 06 From: "Portland, OR Member No.: 5,583 ![]() |
I have the kit on my shelf I used it on my 72S for one season then I raised back up 150.00 plus shipping. Craig knows me and I am the guy that bought Fergs super clean 74 white 914 . Ps how do I change my u7ser name It should be 72SMFI
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