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KaptKaos |
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#1
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Family ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,009 Joined: 23-April 03 From: Near Wausau Member No.: 607 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() |
So I have the HEs installed and the muffler too.
I went top side to install the intake manifolds. I got the driver side in, but when I went to do the passenger side, I got this: ![]() That silvery stuff on the intake stud is aluminum. I didn't over torque it, it never got tight at all. So the question is, am I fuched or can I relatively easily fix this? TIA |
Aaron Cox |
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#2
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Professional Lawn Dart ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Retired Admin Posts: 24,541 Joined: 1-February 03 From: Corona, CA Member No.: 219 Region Association: Southern California ![]() |
helicoil or timesert.
Isnt that hard... but will be *fun* to do in the car |
SLITS |
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#3
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"This Utah shit is HARSH!" ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Benefactors Posts: 13,602 Joined: 22-February 04 From: SoCal Mountains ... Member No.: 1,696 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
Do a helicoil if your can get a drill motor with bit into the engine bay, at the correct angle, and drill out the hole and then tap back. Kits are available at parts stores.
The head at the outside manifold bolts is only about 3/4" - 1" thick. Don't know about center holes. Just did a head, but it was out of the car. |
BMartin914 |
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#4
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||| ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,408 Joined: 30-May 04 From: Oregon Member No.: 2,128 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() |
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Twystd1 |
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#5
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You don't want to know... really..... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,515 Joined: 12-September 04 From: Newport Beach, California Member No.: 2,743 ![]() |
DO NOT DRILL TOO DEEP.
Or you will be seriously Fucked..... If you choose to do this in the car. Run a piece of plastic or brass pipe just a hair bigger than your drill bit OVER YOUR DRILL BIT so that the bit will only allow a preset depth to be drilled. (CYA mechanics) It is IMPERATIVE you don't drill too deep. I have a 70 degree drill that might work in this application. AS in this pic.... Close quarter drill If'n ya need it. You can borrow it. It isn't very powerful. And you would have to take your time. But it WILL get in there to drill out those stud holes. (I think) And I agree with the fella above that suggested TIME CERTS. They are superior to most conventional inserts. Cheers, Clayton |
Krieger |
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#6
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,803 Joined: 24-May 04 From: Santa Rosa CA Member No.: 2,104 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
I have had great luck in a 912 E using 3 time certs for the rocker hold down studs. Another idea-why don't you try cleaning up that stud and using lock tite red. Torque it to spec and see if it holds. Maybe it'll work. You wouldn't be out much or set back if it didn't hold.
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Twystd1 |
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#7
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You don't want to know... really..... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,515 Joined: 12-September 04 From: Newport Beach, California Member No.: 2,743 ![]() |
Locktite red won't work in his application. There aren't any threads left to stick too.
He MIGHT be able to get by with Locktite thread maker. Which is bassiclay a high temp epoxy you put in the bad hole. Then you coat the bolt/stud with mold release and stick it in the hole. After it sets. you remove the bolt/stud and voila... Insta thread cert. Problem is.. me no think it works at 400 degrees F. Me thinks the epoxy might start to degrade. I KNOW there is mil spec stuff that works. I just don't have any connects at NASA anymore. Those guys have glues and epoxys that we can only dream of. I would yank the head and do it right. Unless I had a time constraint. Then I would at least try it in the car. It's keeping the angle and not wobbling a hand drill is the hard part. Worse comes to worse. and he screws the pooch. He yanks the head. I'd have John do a Heliarc number to it. Drill it out in the mill. Install new time cert.... DONE. I dunno.. Sean. let me know if'n ya need my little drill. Clayton |
Aaron Cox |
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#8
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Professional Lawn Dart ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Retired Admin Posts: 24,541 Joined: 1-February 03 From: Corona, CA Member No.: 219 Region Association: Southern California ![]() |
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Twystd1 |
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#9
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You don't want to know... really..... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,515 Joined: 12-September 04 From: Newport Beach, California Member No.: 2,743 ![]() |
Aaron......
I meant Joe..... I was trying to be stealthy so no one would know..... (Aliens intercept my messages some times) And Joe's real name is Sean... he is undercover... (MIB) Don't blow it for him. And the sky is pink and there are elephants in my bedroom right now.... SeanJoe is here with me... And Calvin Coolidge is talking to us in Hebrew..... Now back to one of my other personalty's that is somewhat less retarded and knows Sean is really a figment of your imagination and you were channeling the name Sean to me through the ether.... Stop it Aaron. Burp..... Fred Flintstone Joe...... OOOps....... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif) |
KaptKaos |
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#10
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Family ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,009 Joined: 23-April 03 From: Near Wausau Member No.: 607 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() |
No worries Clayton.
I'm just pissed because I just got the damn thing in there. I was really hoping to have this done already. Damn, I am depressed. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) |
KaptKaos |
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#11
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Family ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,009 Joined: 23-April 03 From: Near Wausau Member No.: 607 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() |
This may sound like a stupid question, but if I used epoxy, and it didn't work, would it make the proper repair worse or harder?
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KaptKaos |
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#12
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Family ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,009 Joined: 23-April 03 From: Near Wausau Member No.: 607 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() |
Ok, here is the timesert site. Very nice site, helpful info too.
http://www.timesert.com/html/mtrcsert.html So if'n I do this, which kit? And I will need your drill Ralph... er, I mean Clayton. |
Gint |
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#13
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Mike Ginter ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 16,096 Joined: 26-December 02 From: Denver CO. Member No.: 20 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() |
I prefer timeserts myself.
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jk76.914 |
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#14
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 809 Joined: 12-April 05 From: Massachusetts Member No.: 3,925 Region Association: North East States ![]() |
When I did a timesert for an exhaust stud, I drilled it with the bit in a tap wrench, per directions. The bit in the timesert kit has 4 flats just for that purpose. It cut like butter. I was amazed. Since you're cutting by hand, you can feel when you bottom out.
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KaptKaos |
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#15
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Family ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,009 Joined: 23-April 03 From: Near Wausau Member No.: 607 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() |
I'll likely do the timesert, but I can't tell by the web page which kit to get.
Anyone have any guidance with this? |
Demick |
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#16
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Ernie made me do it! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Benefactors Posts: 2,312 Joined: 6-February 03 From: Pleasanton, CA Member No.: 257 ![]() ![]() |
Surprised nobody mentioned JBWeld. This is a stud, so you don't need to reform the threads like you would if this was a bolt. Just JBWeld this stud back into the hole (after cleaning off the aluminum stuck in the threads of course).
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KaptKaos |
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#17
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Family ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,009 Joined: 23-April 03 From: Near Wausau Member No.: 607 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() |
Surprised nobody mentioned JBWeld. This is a stud, so you don't need to reform the threads like you would if this was a bolt. Just JBWeld this stud back into the hole (after cleaning off the aluminum stuck in the threads of course). I'd be happy to JB weld it in place if that will keep it there. I am concerned that it won't last. I am not expecting a 100k miles on this motor. I'd be happy with about 15k miles. I want to build a new one at some point as well. |
Grimstead |
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#18
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Cheaky Monkey ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 835 Joined: 20-March 05 From: Corona, Ca Member No.: 3,789 Region Association: Southern California ![]() |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
I'm no help but here is a afternoon (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon_bump.gif) |
jk76.914 |
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#19
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 809 Joined: 12-April 05 From: Massachusetts Member No.: 3,925 Region Association: North East States ![]() |
I'll likely do the timesert, but I can't tell by the web page which kit to get. Anyone have any guidance with this? I first retapped the hole out to 9mm, but it pulled again. So I ended up using the 9mm x 1.25 kit to tap it out and insert for a 9mm/8mm step-stud. You probably want the 8mm x 1.25 kit. These guys have the kit, as well as studs and step-studs (if you should go for the 9mm kit for extra strength.). http://www.belmetric.com/html/catalog15.htm Jim |
jk76.914 |
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#20
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 809 Joined: 12-April 05 From: Massachusetts Member No.: 3,925 Region Association: North East States ![]() |
OOPS! I was thinking exhaust. You DON'T want the 9mm kit. You want the 8mm x 1.25 kit!!!!!!!
Sorry about that! Jim |
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