Rear Mount Oil Cooler Planning, Ok, leaking oil again... Options

[BeatNavy]

With the addition of my 2270 I'm now pushing oil temps toward 230 on an 80 degree day. I am not surprised, but wanted to run it for a bit just to make sure an external oil cooler is truly necessary.

I think it is truly necessary.

I've researched and planned this some, but I'm still looking for sanity check, comments, and answers where appropriate. You'll notice I'm trying to stick with Setrab for most of this under the assumption that the pieces should work together.

1. This will be rear-mount cooler: Setrab Series 1 19-row w/Fan. It looks compact, has the fan, and was recommended to me. It will be mounted somewhere under trunk / over gearbox, probably passenger side.

2. Sandwich plate adapter. I've considered going with CFR's system, but I'll probably stick with the sandwich plate route at this point. Which sandwich plate? I assume it needs to be low-profile to avoid interference with cross-bar, but these things run from $26 to over $200 depending, I guess, whether or not they have thermostat. I was thinking of going with this one: 3/4 x 16 1-inch Sandwich Plate

3. Oil line fittings. I guess I need 2 for the sandwich adapter plate and 2 for the cooler itself. From a planning standpoint should I assume straight, 45 or 90 degree angled, particularly for clearance purposes off the adapter?

4. Oil lines. Going with steel braided, and I was thinking about 10 feet of AN8. Any advantage/disadvantage to AN8 versus AN10?. I'm going to get the Koul Tool oil line tool to help fabricate these.

5. Thermostat fan switch - was planning on the Setrab 190 degree thermostat switch.

6. Then I guess I need to go fused or relay on the power. Need to research that a bit more.

7. Am I missing anything or any other gotchas before I start ordering stuff?

As always, thanks for advice and help. Adding an external cooler obviously makes everything a bit more complex and crowded underneath. I guess I should have stuck with the original 1.7L I had years ago. NOT! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

[wndsrfr]

With the addition of my 2270 I'm now pushing oil temps toward 230 on an 80 degree day. I am not surprised, but wanted to run it for a bit just to make sure an external oil cooler is truly necessary.

I think it is truly necessary.

I've researched and planned this some, but I'm still looking for sanity check, comments, and answers where appropriate. You'll notice I'm trying to stick with Setrab for most of this under the assumption that the pieces should work together.

1. This will be rear-mount cooler: Setrab Series 1 19-row w/Fan. It looks compact, has the fan, and was recommended to me. It will be mounted somewhere under trunk / over gearbox, probably passenger side.

2. Sandwich plate adapter. I've considered going with CFR's system, but I'll probably stick with the sandwich plate route at this point. Which sandwich plate? I assume it needs to be low-profile to avoid interference with cross-bar, but these things run from $26 to over $200 depending, I guess, whether or not they have thermostat. I was thinking of going with this one: 3/4 x 16 1-inch Sandwich Plate

3. Oil line fittings. I guess I need 2 for the sandwich adapter plate and 2 for the cooler itself. From a planning standpoint should I assume straight, 45 or 90 degree angled, particularly for clearance purposes off the adapter?

4. Oil lines. Going with steel braided, and I was thinking about 10 feet of AN8. Any advantage/disadvantage to AN8 versus AN10?. I'm going to get the Koul Tool oil line tool to help fabricate these.

5. Thermostat fan switch - was planning on the Setrab 190 degree thermostat switch.

6. Then I guess I need to go fused or relay on the power. Need to research that a bit more.

7. Am I missing anything or any other gotchas before I start ordering stuff?

As always, thanks for advice and help. Adding an external cooler obviously makes everything a bit more complex and crowded underneath. I guess I should have stuck with the original 1.7L I had years ago. NOT! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

If you are going to run DE events think carefully....I had a rear mount that still wasn't enough for 30 min sessions so then went front mount .... that did the job perfectly.....
Still got rear cooler sitting around here if you want it...

[Maury4]

I used Tangerine Racing Kit.One was a bit short for my liking, but was able to make it work. So far so good. Haven't driven the car yet.

[BeatNavy]

Thanks John / Maury.

I don't think this car is going to see a track any time soon. When it was in VA I was about a 60 minute very pleasant drive to Summit Point, but where it is now I'm far from any track. So I'm hoping a rear mount will work for street use.

[gereed75]

Rob, Here is the one I did

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=314444&hl=

It is currently still mounted on the car but is disconnected. The big thing I was going for was no cutting on the car. The mount I devised integrated into the trans mount actually worked very well. I could yank it out of there if interested. It seemed to be pretty effective.

Let me know. Go Navy

[Retroracer]

On wiring: From the specs on the Setrab site, the fan can take up to 6A. Best to arrange a relayed + fused dedicated feed for that puppy.

It looks like a neat, compact little unit - nice find.

- Tony

[gereed75]

i included a temp sensor and a PMV temp controller that included a relay. Took the fan power off the starter battery lead. Mounted the controller off of the trunk light mount, again to avoid drilling any holes in the original tub.

[BeatNavy]

Rob, Here is the one I did

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=314444&hl=

It is currently still mounted on the car but is disconnected. The big thing I was going for was no cutting on the car. The mount I devised integrated into the trans mount actually worked very well. I could yank it out of there if interested. It seemed to be pretty effective.

Let me know. Go Navy

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Gerry, that's a sweet setup. Very nicely done. I appreciate the offer, but the main thing is just the knowledge that a nice shroud like that can be fabbed up. Looks like a nice little project. That's excellent info, thanks.

On wiring: From the specs on the Setrab site, the fan can take up to 6A. Best to arrange a relayed + fused dedicated feed for that puppy.

It looks like a neat, compact little unit - nice find.

- Tony

Good info, Tony.

Thanks for everyone's help (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[HansJan]

My 2 cents:
Don't fabricate your own hoses.
After you installed the sandwich plate and cooler, you see exactly what you need.
Then have a hydraulics company make the hoses for you (the kind of shop that supplies for farm equipment etc.).

Its done quick (on the spot mostly) and will never leak. Btw stainless braided is over rated.

[Matty900]

I was just watching a video from Scott at Rennigade about how they set up the oil cooler that I thought was pretty cool. I created the link so it starts right at that point so you don't have to watch through the whole video https://youtu.be/cw-sYGtIB5M?t=1359
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[mepstein]

I like ss hoses. They take minutes to make and should last a long time. The Koul tool makes it super easy.

[BeatNavy]

Thanks for everyone's input. Put a sizable order in to Pegasus Racing today, after getting some friendly help from the proprietor. I decided to go with the SS lines as I kind of want to learn how to make them. I did get the Koul Tool for that. The guy at Pegasus was recommending also getting some vice adapter, but said it wasn't 100% necessary.

I also decided to go with 10 AN at the end of the day. So in summary, my "shopping cart:"

1 Setrab 19 row series 1 oil cooler w/fanpack
1 mounting bracket for said cooler
1 Setrab sandwich plate adapter
4 m22 to 10AN adapters
10 feet of SS braided AN10 (hope that's enough after taking into account FUBARs!)
4 AN 10 hose fittings
1 inline thermostatic fan switch
1 crossover relay
1 wiring harness
1 AN 10 Koul Tool

Here's a question: what oil filters are you running with sandwich plate? I can see it's going to be a tight fit against that crossbar with the Mahle filter. I recall reading that a 944 filter fits and is lower profile?

I'm going to try to fab up something like Gerry posted here. Hey @Gereed75 , I also learned that "AN" stands for "Army Navy" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Big thanks also to Joe ( @Porschef ) for walking through with me what he did on his setup, and to John ( @wndsrfr ) for making a generous offer of his oil cooler.

I'll try to update once I get parts and get ready to install.

[Porschef]

Pleasure talking with you Rob; the Mahle filter fits just fine with the sandwich plate.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Olympic 914]

Rob
I used the same Setrab 19 row cooler w/ fan pack as you are getting. and the 190 deg thermo switch. With a sandwich adapter.

Also added the Setrab oil thermostat. This allows the oil to both bypass and flow some oil through the cooler until it hits 180 deg and then directs all the oil through the cooler.

Pictures of my installation and the brackets I fabbed up are in my build thread at post #119

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...5786&st=100

This puts the cooler parallel to the trunk and allows an easy run of the AN10 lines. I liked the idea of running the lines through the engine compartment, to allow easy access to the valve covers for valve adjustments.

The AN10 lines are very stiff and would not easily move out of the way for valve adjustments if they run past the covers.

I have more pictures if you would like any info on anything I did.

[barefoot]

Here's lots of stuff for you form the classic forum.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=108328

[BeatNavy]

Here's lots of stuff for you form the classic forum.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=108328

I did get a lot of my initial info from that thread (and others), thanks.

@Olympic 914 Tom, that's a sweet and very clean install. I was thinking of going through the J tube hole and engine compartment as well after speaking with Joe (Porschef). Question: would the AN10 hoses bend sufficiently or do I need to do like you did and install a junction / bend point? If I do need that, is it clear in your thread what parts you used. Also need to find a grommet I can use for exiting the rear tin. I need to go back and read your posts in detail...

Thanks!

[DRPHIL914]

mine was installed by CFR while the car was up there 2 years ago for rust repair. Used their kit . cooler mounted up next to transmission under rear trunk and used the adaptor kit. uses a fat bosch oil filter and has less than a finger's width between it and the bar but it doent rub and I can get the filter wrench on it .
it works well and keeps my temps on a hot hard running day below 230, no more than 220 but never over 230 whereas before this in the mountains I would go over that on a long prolonged run up the mountain. I have the same fan set up with thermostatic on/off fused , small fuse block next to battery.

Good luck it sounds like you have it covered. Chris used An fittings and lines, no issues even after removing ti and putting back in.

Phil

[Olympic 914]

@Olympic 914 Tom, that's a sweet and very clean install. I was thinking of going through the J tube hole and engine compartment as well after speaking with Joe (Porschef). Question: would the AN10 hoses bend sufficiently or do I need to do like you did and install a junction / bend point? If I do need that, is it clear in your thread what parts you used. Also need to find a grommet I can use for exiting the rear tin. I need to go back and read your posts in detail...

Thanks!

Rob

Not sure if the AN10 lines are flexible enough to go up through the J-tube hole and head back to the cooler. They may be though. You can probably check that first. I used the Setrab oil thermostat as a junction point. Imagine a H with the center open. it allows oil to flow up each leg and through the middle. the cool oil will take the path of least resistance flowing through the middle, But also some oil will be going to the cooler. At 180 the center of the H closes and forces all the oil through the cooler. But by that time some of the hot oil will have already been going to the cooler. This helps out in cooler weather.

The downside to this is more fittings ($$) and more places for potential leaks ( I haven't had a problem)

this would require 4 more M22-AN10 fittings and 4 90 deg AN10 fittings in addition to the oil thermostat.

Where before the oil temps would regularly hit 250+ when flogging it in hot weather, now I have not seen more than 220. AND the temps drop much more quickly than before when you get off it. (Your experience may differ with the 2270)

[DRPHIL914]

couple pictures of my cooler and the adapter. make sure the adaptor is in snug, mine was loose at last oil change and caused a leak above , simple fix just always recheck at every oil change.

[mb911]

I just did this setup and put a small brace and shield on the bottom by the oil lines for a -6.. Worked well once everything is figured out