To Do List for Bumblebee that needs to be bulletproof, What would you do? Options

[jhynesrockmtn]

So I bought this Bumblebee on BAT that was extensively restored around 2000 and has seen little use since. My plan is to drive it, including to Rennsport in 2023 and other 914 events in the future like Octeenerfest.

So the car runs and drives and is in overall excellent condition. It does "hunt" at idle and has a slight miss under acceleration. However, 20+ years of sitting and having original plastic fuel lines has me planning a winter "refresh" geared toward proactively making the car as reliable as possible. Still running the Djet FI which I want to keep.

Please add to my list to help with projects I will do over the winter. I will drop the engine as part of this process.

Here is what I have so far:

SS fuel line kit from Tangerine Racing
New rubber fuel lines
New vacuum lines
New fuel filter
Take fuel injectors to Mr. Injector for testing - he is local to me
Inspect fuel tank, replace tank screen
Replace TPS board
New spark plugs and ignition wires
Install 123ignition distributor
Valve adjustment
New fan belt
Oil and trans fluid change
Send fuel injection harness to Jeff Bowlsby for inspection
Brakes seem good, will flush and replace soft brake lines
Seat belts re webbed
Inspect shifter bushings, replace as necessary
Install turbo tie rod kit
Install engine firewall pad - was left out of restoration
Clock is inop, send to get converted to quartz
Replace clutch and throttle cables, keep current for spares
Inspect clutch components with engine/trans out
Inspect wheel bearings - repack/replace as necessary
New tires, set ride height (front is a bit proud to my eye) and align
Inspect all suspension bushings
Replace side graphic with new from 914Rubber

What am I missing?

[Superhawk996]

I’d at least pull the torsion bars and make sure they aren’t corroded or rubbing inside LCA. Replace if either has occurred. If rubbing - LCA bushings need to be replaced.

I think I have a functional quartz clock. Let me know if you want to swap - I dig the old analog clocks or I may be able to get your old analog working. I’m north of CDA - so local to you. Post 33 in link - revival of analog clock
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...35209&st=20

If you want rock solid reliability, get Bowlsby, engine harness for ECU, ignition and alternator harness. 50 year old crispy wiring is always going to be a reliability risk.

Inspect & grease CV joints

Inspect all wiring - remove / repair any prior cobble jobs.

[Craigers17]

As long as you are dropping the engine, I would take off the intakes, plenum, and throttle body,.... clean them thoroughly, and reinstall with new gaskets and connecting hose. In addition, I would make sure the plenum is rust free and any holes and/or seams are either welded or J.B. welded. Unless you know your throttle body is 100%, you might want to have that serviced as well. Finally, make sure your MPS and AAR valve are functioning properly. IMHO, all of these things are likely to help your FI system function better.

[Jett]

So I bought this Bumblebee on BAT that was extensively restored around 2000 and has seen little use since. My plan is to drive it, including to Rennsport in 2023 and other 914 events in the future like Octeenerfest.

So the car runs and drives and is in overall excellent condition. It does "hunt" at idle and has a slight miss under acceleration. However, 20+ years of sitting and having original plastic fuel lines has me planning a winter "refresh" geared toward proactively making the car as reliable as possible. Still running the Djet FI which I want to keep.

Please add to my list to help with projects I will do over the winter. I will drop the engine as part of this process.

Here is what I have so far:

SS fuel line kit from Tangerine Racing
New rubber fuel lines
New vacuum lines
New fuel filter
Take fuel injectors to Mr. Injector for testing - he is local to me
Inspect fuel tank, replace tank screen
Replace TPS board
New spark plugs and ignition wires
Install 123ignition distributor
Valve adjustment
New fan belt
Oil and trans fluid change
Send fuel injection harness to Jeff Bowlsby for inspection
Brakes seem good, will flush and replace soft brake lines
Seat belts re webbed
Inspect shifter bushings, replace as necessary
Install turbo tie rod kit
Install engine firewall pad - was left out of restoration
Clock is inop, send to get converted to quartz
Replace clutch and throttle cables, keep current for spares
Inspect clutch components with engine/trans out
Inspect wheel bearings - repack/replace as necessary
New tires, set ride height (front is a bit proud to my eye) and align
Inspect all suspension bushings
Replace side graphic with new from 914Rubber

What am I missing?

Great looking car! IIRC this is now the fifth bee in the neighborhood… soon we will have a swarm. Ours needs some love but could be ready for next summer… we should all meet up? We can start a thread early next year (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[r_towle]

Buy two of all the little parts so you have spares in the car for long journeys.

[914werke]

Looks like its still in very nice shape!
My own LE was also restored approx 20 yrs ago (Damn how time flies!)
IDK Im kinda nutty, Id try to keep it as stock as possible. The fuel lines (& pump), sure but Id refurbish the dizzy tie rods et all

Following.

[scottsilvertt]

1. I would buy a new fuel pump.
Carry the old one in the car.
2. Make sure distributor post has ‘zero’ rust, it will sand down the rub bar on the points. Grease it.
3. Clean as many ‘body’ grounds as you can find.
4. Get extra accelerator position sensor.
5. Check wire ends around coil for weakness, replace or reinforce.

Each of these failed on my in 20 yrs of 1974 ownership.

[scottsilvertt]

1. I would buy a new fuel pump.
Carry the old one in the car.
2. Make sure distributor post has ‘zero’ rust, it will sand down the rub bar on the points. Grease it.
3. Clean as many ‘body’ grounds as you can find.
4. Get extra accelerator position sensor.
5. Check wire ends around coil for weakness, replace or reinforce.
6. Consider new key switch, buy a real extra.
7. Consider modifying seat belt sensor, disconnect.
8. Buy an extra ECU, even if it’s a 1973, to get you out of a bind.


Each of these failed on my car in 20 yrs of 1974 ownership.

[dlee6204]

Since your goal is reliability, here's a few tips I have. I've brought several 914s back from the dead with the intent to make them reliable (I hate breaking down) so here's what I have to add.


1.For the fuel injection harness, ignition harness, and alternator harness I would not reuse no matter how good it looks. It's 50 years old. Replace.
2.Replace the ignition switch with one from Porsche. I've changed several out as a preventative measure and I have yet to pull one that isn't cracked. At the very least, pull it and inspect carefully.
3.Replace/rebuild the alternator and starter.
4.Replace fuel pump
5. I don't know if you're refinishing any of the engine bits but I weld the two halves of the intake plenum together and inspect for cracks.
6.I also like to upgrade the shift bushings to the bronze style and replace the firewall bushing with the Tangerine racing one. Even new plastic bushings have a ton of slop and only last a few years.
7.Remove all the bulbs from the exterior lights and clean the contacts.
8.Remove all the fuses and either clean or replace. Even if they look good, hit them with a small wire brush.
9. Clean grounds. Even if they look good, hit with a wire brush.


And adding the 123Ignition is a great choice. Going that route eliminates several potential failure points.

[JeffBowlsby]

"Swarm"...love it.

All great comments above.

The three engine bay harnesses are the most critical harnesses in that they have been exposed to the most heat, fluid contamination, corrosion and likely physical abuse. For connectivity, best to replace them all at this point.

Although it won't leave you stranded, I would add to those a new oil temp gauge cable under the engine for anyone that has a factory oil temp gauge, it sees as much or more abuse than the others and is not expensive.

[Lockwodo]

Replace ground cables (battery negative terminal to ground, tranny ground, alternator ground), these degrade over time. Clean the connection points.

Clean the FI grounds on the top back of the engine under air distributor.

Replace coil if < 3 ohms (123 disty needs 3+ ohm coil).

Verify charging system rate at the battery is ~13.8 volts +/-, if not replace the voltage regulator and/or alternator.

Lube door and lid hinges and rollers and catch mechanisms.

Clean PCV valve, replace if necessary.

Might as well replace the cylinder head temp sensor while you have the engine out.

Check thermostat system, ensure flaps opening and closing OK.

[emerygt350]

The replacement part is a little unubtainium for the pcv. Was the 74 still using the valve? Be very nice to that piece if you have it. If it isn't working it's a pia.

[Lockwodo]

Yes, the '74 2.0 has a PCV valve and this is the replacement I used. Works fine:

Microgard PCV 279 (cross for FRAM FV279)

[bkrantz]

Front and rear engine crankshaft seals
Trans input shaft seal

[DBF]

Great to-do list. I am working to get my barn find BB on the road by next spring and will do these to my car as well. I also plan to take it to 914 events, including Rennsport.

[emerygt350]

Yes, the '74 2.0 has a PCV valve and this is the replacement I used. Works fine:

Microgard PCV 279 (cross for FRAM FV279)

I tried that too but it is not the same airflow profile and the fudged seal on the breather box didn't hold up.

[Front yard mechanic]

You might try these guys

[Cairo94507]

Not really a maintenance item, more of a safety item- replace all exterior lighting with Spoke's LED's. They make a world of difference in visibility. Also, go with a good set of LED headlights. https://vintagecarleds.com/shop/7-inch/vc4000-ultimate-kit/. I have the H4 lights with the LED conversion and they are very nice and look 100% stock. I also did Spoke's LED driving lights- well worth it.

Oh, your Bee looks great. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[DRPHIL914]

You might try these guys

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif)

[iankarr]

You've gotten great info here. And your list is perfect. I'd also test that the MPS holds vacuum, i second replacing all engine bay harnesses and agree with superhawk about checking the torsion bars. Not sure how "stock" you want to make this car, but you have euro tail light lenses, which I believe never came on LEs (@JeffBowlsby please confirm). If they're in good shape you can probably get good dough for those and find some original US spec Hellas. Great looking car...bought well. Enjoy!