914/6 push rod tubes leaking!, How hard is this to fix myself? |
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914/6 push rod tubes leaking!, How hard is this to fix myself? |
Jeffs9146 |
Oct 10 2003, 06:58 PM
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#1
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Ski Bum Group: Members Posts: 4,062 Joined: 10-January 03 From: Discovery Bay, Ca Member No.: 128 |
Is there a tech article on replacing the tube seals? How hard is the repair? Can I do it myself? There are two that definatly need replacing!
Any info would help! I am losing about 1/4 quart per day and it smokes bad when I drive it! It is a 2.0L stock 6! Jeff |
ArtechnikA |
Oct 10 2003, 07:12 PM
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#2
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rich herzog Group: Members Posts: 7,390 Joined: 4-April 03 From: Salted Roads, PA Member No.: 513 Region Association: None |
QUOTE(Jeffs9146 @ Oct 10 2003, 04:58 PM) Is there a tech article on replacing the tube seals? How hard is the repair? Can I do it myself? Any info would help! I am losing about 1/4 quart per day and it smokes bad when I drive it! yes, you can do it yourself. no, you can't just replace the seals unless you're pulling down the entire top end. you crush the old tubes with ChannelLock pliers and throw them away, then replace them with expandable oil return (not pushrod...) tubes. all The Usual Suspect places have replacement 911 oil return tubes. i've seen it done - having the right tool to press the tube into the crank case and cam box helps a lot. it sure looked easier doing it on the lift - you need some strength to muscle the tubes into position and expand them properly so the circlips seat. i'm sure there are technical articles in the archives of the various sites... there is way more room if the heat exchangers are out, but the technician doing the session said sometimes it's actually easier to be able to leverage against the exhaust for some of the return tubes, so it appears to be a wash. there's also an oil fitting in the area of one of the return tubes that is chronic for self-loosening and leaking. it takes a cheap aluminum seal washer but it's a major PITA - probably impossible without removong the oil return tubes. if you're already in there for that, i'd see about replacing that sealing washer too... Pelican (for instance) has expandable oil return tubes shown for $21 ea. |
TimT |
Oct 10 2003, 07:14 PM
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#3
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retired Group: Members Posts: 4,033 Joined: 18-February 03 From: Wantagh, NY Member No.: 313 |
der sixers dont have pushrods...
That being say you can get replacement oil return tubes, about $90 for a set of four. Its not "easy" to replace them though.... |
Jeffs9146 |
Oct 10 2003, 07:19 PM
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#4
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Ski Bum Group: Members Posts: 4,062 Joined: 10-January 03 From: Discovery Bay, Ca Member No.: 128 |
QUOTE der sixers dont have pushrods. I stand corrected! colapsible I read this thread and it said the colapsible tubes are not worth doing on a 4 but you think they are good on a 6? Jeff |
Mueller |
Oct 10 2003, 07:24 PM
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#5
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914 Freak! Group: Members Posts: 17,146 Joined: 4-January 03 From: Antioch, CA Member No.: 87 Region Association: None |
Jeff,
You only have 2 options with a /6 Pull the motor or buy the collapse type oil tubes for a 6 |
TimT |
Oct 10 2003, 07:27 PM
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#6
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retired Group: Members Posts: 4,033 Joined: 18-February 03 From: Wantagh, NY Member No.: 313 |
Yes they are best for a six on a four you can pull the heads, slap some new tubes in and bolt it all up...
on a six taking the top end apart is some major coin...you have to retime the cams etc... with the collapsable tubes.... pry out the old leaking tubes..... and replace with the collapsable ones. Yeap so get those replacement tubes to replace your leaky ones Actually just find out which one is leaking and replace just that one!! |
ArtechnikA |
Oct 10 2003, 07:53 PM
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#7
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rich herzog Group: Members Posts: 7,390 Joined: 4-April 03 From: Salted Roads, PA Member No.: 513 Region Association: None |
QUOTE(TimT @ Oct 10 2003, 05:27 PM) Yes they are best for a six on a four you can pull the heads, slap some new tubes in and bolt it all up... on a T-IV you don't even have to pull the heads ! you can replace the pushrod tube seals by only removing the rocker stands. definitely no comparison. |
J P Stein |
Oct 10 2003, 08:37 PM
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#8
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Irrelevant old fart Group: Members Posts: 8,797 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Vancouver, WA Member No.: 45 Region Association: None |
I just happen to have a set (4) colapseable tubes. Nice shape....cheep.
I used em' on by 2.4T for about a year. |
Jeffs9146 |
Oct 11 2003, 11:35 AM
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#9
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Ski Bum Group: Members Posts: 4,062 Joined: 10-January 03 From: Discovery Bay, Ca Member No.: 128 |
QUOTE I just happen to have a set (4) colapseable tubes. Nice shape....cheep. I used em' on by 2.4T for about a year. Are you offering them to me? I am interested if you are! How much? Jeff |
J P Stein |
Oct 11 2003, 11:39 AM
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#10
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Irrelevant old fart Group: Members Posts: 8,797 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Vancouver, WA Member No.: 45 Region Association: None |
Whall sure, I wasn't just bragging (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
Sent PM. |
Carl |
Oct 12 2003, 11:42 PM
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#11
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Ummm ... what? Group: Members Posts: 781 Joined: 17-January 03 From: San Jose, CA Member No.: 163 Region Association: Northern California |
I recently did this repair on a 3.0L 911SC. I had to drop the exhaust (easy if the nuts come off and you don't break a stud), remove the old tubes (very easy with channelocks) and install the new tubes. You'll need the circlip pliers to expand the circlip and get it into the groove. These are available at a good hardware/tool store. Installing the new tubes is a major pain until you can get leverage on them to fit into the head and case. The best way I found is to put a screw-type hose clamp on each of the two sections and twist a large screwdriver or prybar between the clamps to force the tubes into position. Without some way to force the tubes into their sockets you can't get enough leverage to get the tubes and the seals to seat.
Carl |
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