Internal longs - The product, Product Options

[Engman]

Well I literally just got these...... laser time went sky high with the added holes but they are needed.

M

[IronHillRestorations]

Interesting thread.

My first impressions were that the steel pieces should have a 90 degree flange on the bottom. Welding to an inside corner, especially like the one at the bottom of the longitudinals where there is a radiused corner isn't ideal. Most of the rusty longitudinal cars need something to weld to, and these pieces don't give that to you. I guess you could brake some 16 ga and make your own add on flanges.

Carbon fiber??? Structural carbon fiber is compression autoclave cured, not air cured. You can get carbon fiber wet laid parts, but they realy aren't stronger than the fiberglass counterparts, they just look cooler.

Epoxy??? That's a good one. If you think there will be stress cracks with welding, how long do you think a stressed glue joint (done in somone's garage in questionable environment) will hold? Quarter panels that are epoxied on cars aren't structural members, like the longitudinals of a 914.

Proper GAS MIG welding is the best way to go with this. Y'know the G in MIG stands for gas. Flux core wire welders are just stick welders that have a real skinny stick on a spool. Spend the extra $75 and get the gas kit.

Clean the area under the panel. Treat it with a phosphoric acid solution (Ospho, Oxy-Solv, Rust-Mort, etc), and paint it with 3M weld through primer (now around $24 a can!). Weld them on correctly, without overheating them, and with good weld penetration. Then treat the inside of the longitudinals and all dead air spaces. The car will last a long time.

It's your car though, if you want to roll the dice with something else, let us know how it turns out.... five or ten years from now.

PK (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)