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Trekkor |
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#1
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I do things... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 7,809 Joined: 2-December 03 From: Napa, Ca Member No.: 1,413 Region Association: Northern California ![]() |
Sure, this is a re-run.
I ran the track and got brake fade 3/4 of way into each session. I just want to upgrade the pads and fluid right now. What do you recommend/are using. Wear is not a factor. I want the best stopping power for the stock FOUR calipers/rotors. Do I need to replace the M/C with a bigger unit and what are your feelings on the prop valve vs "tee" arguement. Also considering the SS brake lines. Thanks and thanks to Mark for helping with the brake bleeding on track day. KT Attached image(s) ![]() |
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Brett W |
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#2
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,859 Joined: 17-September 03 From: huntsville, al Member No.: 1,169 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
Alright, here goes
Leave the air dam on and put some ducts in, to run for cooling air. This will keep the air out from under the car at speed and keep the brakes cool. You can always block them off on the street. Call Hawk and get some Hawk HPs or Blacks depending on how long your sessions are. They will work well on the street as well. Stainless lines, put an adjustable prop valve in the back so you can tune the brakes and step up in master cylinder size. You might also look at adding a Stewart lock-resistant brake valve. Ford Heavy Duty brake fluid has a dry boiling point of 585 or something like that. It is also very cheap. I have used it on many race cars with no problems. The GTU RX7 that I maintain used it last weekend at the Mitty to take first in class. As long as you keep the brakes bleed you will be OK. Or you could always bite the bullet and upgrade to these: Attached image(s) ![]() |
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